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Torque Settings On Upper Strut Bolts

Hydrargyrum

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
531
Location
Chicago, IL
Does anyone happen to know the correct TQ settings on the 2 bolts that attach the shocks to the body of the car? More specifically, to the bolt that attaches on top of the strut mount, and on top of the shock tower?

In the process of fixing my car, and want to tackle this issue also. They keep getting loose all the time... :nonono:
 
I think its only like 35 ft-lbs. You don't need much to retain the strut assembly to the strut tower.


also what do you mean by they keep getting loose? are your strut mounts good?
 
Brand new strut mounts ... Brand new retainer cups up top... The bolts keep comming loose. I guess GC/Konis just ride too rough for them to stay put ... I've adjusted them a million times, and always keep getting loose...
 
I have had the same issue with the bolts coming loose on my GC/Koni. Even using my impact gun to tighten them they would come loose, but after a couple times of tightening them they eventually stayed.
 
I even used thread lock/freeze Gel and they came loose. Drives me absolutely insane. That is why I was wondering what the proper TQ was. There must be a reason that they keep coming loose...
 
Did you replace the nuts when you did the install? They are Nyloc nuts and should be replaced. I've had a Koni/Bat setup for 50K with out those ever coming loose. Also, you should NEVER use an impact to tighten the top nut on Koni's as it can damage the adjustment mechanism. I believe it even says that in the Koni install instructions.
 
I would start looking very close as to whether you have the nuts pulling up tight without properly compressing any rubber you have in there. If so the nuts will impact way too hard in use and continue to loosen up, their coming loose repeatedly is indicating that. There is no need to torque down a gigonda amount if the part is properly rubber damped. You may have to custom shim somehow in there to pull down good on the rubber before the nut hits full tight. Just one of the many things to look for when changing up to non-factory parts.
 
Also, you should NEVER use an impact to tighten the top nut on Koni's as it can damage the adjustment mechanism. I believe it even says that in the Koni install instructions.

You are correct, if the shaft is spun too much in one direction the strut will start leaking fluid through the adjustment on top therefore its blown. Although I have always used my impact on them and made sure to not spin the strut shaft too much, I should probably stop being lazy and tighten them by hand from now on as a precaution.
 
Service manual says to install the top nut loosely, then to assembly the rest of the knuckle and strut to the knuckle. Torque the pinch bolt bolt, torque the axle nut, install the wheel, set the car down, torque the wheel lugs, THEN torque the top hat nut.

Lower pinch bolt on knuckle.. 85Nm

strutinstall2.jpg


Top of the strut... 46Nm

strutinstall.jpg


You are correct, if the shaft is spun too much in one direction the strut will start leaking fluid through the adjustment on top therefore its blown. Although I have always used my impact on them and made sure to not spin the strut shaft too much, I should probably stop being lazy and tighten them by hand from now on as a precaution.

Only problem with tightening them by hand is then you need an open ended clicker torque wrench. I've had some success with using a crows foot and my torque wrench, but ugh its not fun.
 
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Wasn't sure, but if your talking about the rear struts, then....

27Nm for the top two bolts

rearstrutinstall.jpg


85Nm for the lower pinch bolt

rearstrutinstall2.jpg
 
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