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Tie Rod gone bad? Replacement Tips?

DMV95ContourSE

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 13, 2002
Messages
18
Location
Northwest Ohio
So I've been reading some previous posts using the SEARCH, and I think I've got my issue narrowed down. Let's just begin with the details... 95 SE... 141,000 miles... no repairs to the steering or struts in the past 2 years, at about 120,000 miles. The tour is my daily driver to and from work, 20 miles involving a left, a right, and then 2 more lefts. The rest is just flat, straight, northwest Ohio and Indiana country roads. I can afford to take it down to do repairs since it is my beater/work car. Here's the issue...

Lately when turning LEFT I get the clunking/popping sound from the passenger side up front. I also notice the sound when traveling down rough/pot hole ridden roads. So, I put the car up on stands and noticed that at 9 and 3 o'clock on the passenger side tire I could wiggle the tire away from and towards the engine about 1/2". According to other posts this points to possibly an outer tie rod being worn out. So with this in mind the reason I am posting is for the following...

1. Anyone know/have any links to pictures or images of the cars suspension that point out the various parts, maybe diagrams of the suspension, etc. (I've looked through the HOW TO Wheel Bearing and that's helped some) I'm just not all that familiar with what's what with the suspension.

2. Recommendations for which replacement tie rod brand to use. Advance Auto parts has several different brands and the cheapest doesn't always equate to the best.

3. Suggestions/Tips on how to or what to watch out for when replacing the outer tie rod

4. Any advice on the problem, am I way off on my trouble shooting?

I'm planning on putting the car back up on the stands this weekend and taking the wheel off to check all bearings and joints to see if there are any other possible causes for the noise. Right now I'm thinking it's the Tie Rod.
 
As far as brands go I try to buy the one that has the best rubber and can be greased.The noise sounds like it could be from a bearing,wore out struts,strut mounts,or tie rod.The bearing you can check by jacking the car up and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and see if there is any play.The strut and mount can SOMETIMES be tested by poping the hood and lean on the strut tower then bouncing the car,see if noise happens,or checking to see if strust is leaking fluid.The tie rod end is easiset cheked by the 9 and 3 method,but works better if you have someone to try to move tire while you look at the end.If it is bad then the hub/spindle shoud move a little and the tie rod will not.If you need to know what the tie-rod end is then look at one at the parts store and then you should be able to find it on the car,or look at the BAT catalog it shows most of the sus. componets.Replacing the tie-rod end is easy but you need to get it back in the exact position as the old one or you will need an alingment.You first need to unbolt the tie-rod end from the hub/spindle then useing a seperator or hammer remove the end from hub/spindle.Then loosen the locking nut buy turning it clockwise up the tie-rod 1/4 to 1/2 a turn,best done by starting the wrench at 12 and stoping at 6 so you can remember how far to tighten it later.You then put the correct size wrench on the tie-rob(there is a hex spot on the rod about 1/2 way up).Put second wrench on the tie-rod end the loosen the tie-rod end by turning counter clockwise.Screw new end onto tie rod until it is at lock nut.Retighten lock nut back to 12 position.If needed to replace lock nut also thencount the exposed threads before you begin takeing everything apart.If you forget to count or forgot how many threads the count other side,both should have the same exposed.

If I left anything out please correct it.
 
i just went to carquest and bought their lifetime warantee outer tie rod. the thing works like a charm
 
On the 95 there was a recall for potentially broken springs. The problem was worse in areas where salt is used on the roads. This can cause a noise as the spring rotates when the wheel is turned. Easy to see if it's broken, just look at the spring when the car in jacked up. It doesn't just have a small crack it's completely broken. Suprisingly the spring can be broken and the ride height doesn't change.
 
I thought the poping/clicking noise when turing indicated a CV joint failing???
 
Thanks for the reply GrimmSVT...

I had previously done the 12 and 6 o'clock check on the tire with no movement at all. The only movement was at 3 and 9 which got me leaning towards a possible tie rod issue. I had also pushed down on the the strut tower and couldn't replicate the sound. The last time I had repair work done on the suspension they replaced the springs b/c they were shot. At that time I was wondering why my car looked like it had a "sweet" drop on it, but clunked it's way down the road.

After work today I'll have someone else move the tire while I watch for where the issue is occuring at. Looks like I've got part of my weekend planned out already. Thanks to everyone else for their replies/advice... I'll post any other issues/concerns later on down the road.
 
I think you have two problems. The clicking noise CV joint/axle, and the play@3&9 tie rod end. Tie rod ends for the most part don't make any noise unless really worn and you turn the wheel when the car is stationary and the engine is off. Tie rod end wear will throw your toe alignment out and you will see tire wear on the very outside or inside of the tires. It will also cause oscilation in the steering wheel after hitting a road imperfection. Usually the poping and clicking noise when turning the wheel under power is the CV joint/axle assembly.
 
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Yea I was half asleep and didn't think of the cv.Find a parking lot then turn wheel full lock and drive in a circle,turn other way and drive in circle that way.If the cv is shot then there will be popping and possibly feel like there is some binding right before the pop.Plus when he said it did it on pot hole roads I got thinking more of strut/strut bearing.
 
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