GregCarter
New CEG'er
Hi,
Most of the threads I could find on steering gear (rack) replacement all started with "I have a leaking rack, what is involved to replace it?" followed by some suggestions and no follow up. So here are some observations and pictures. This isn't a howto. I have a copy of the Ford manual and followed it. I'll only cover things I did different. I put this off as long as I could. It got to the point where I could only go out for a short trip and back before needing to refill the PS fluid. Car is 1998 SVT Contour, manual trans.
I did not have the alignment pins mentioned in the manual, so I scribed some marks to check if the alignment of the subframe when it is put back. Seemed to go right back without any need for adjustment.
First like many said, the rear sub frame nuts spun. So I cut open the frame (I checked under the carpet and did not find any access holes) to get a wrench on the nut, I used a plasma cutter (see picture). I believe the nut size was 22 or 21 mm, I had to pry down on the wrench to keep the nut from spinning in the wrench.
The front subframe bolts came out no problem. I had to remove them completely to get the subframe low enough.
I did NOT have to support the engine (the manual does not mention supporting the engine).
I did NOT remove the lower rad supports, as the bolts looked rusty on mine so I left the mounts in in place, just made sure to work the subframe to rad support loose as the subframe is lowered. Make sure to put a nail or other pin in the rad pins that stick up (top engine side near head lights), you may need to have someone push up on the rad from below to get the hole in the pins high enough to get the nail through to support the rad.
I first tried to leave the AC condenser bolted to the subframe. This proved to be dumb as the subframe would not drop down far enough and was hung up by the condenser, so just remove the two bolts holding it to the subframe.
I did NOT remove the front roll restricter, I only removed the one horizontal bolt that goes through the roll restricter. The manual shows to remove the bracket as well.
I removed the rear roll restricter completely (per manual) but also found that I needed to remove the roll restricter mounting bracket. With it removed it was much easier getting the subframe back up into position. Note in the pictures it is still in place, as I hadn't started to put the subframe back in place yet. But go ahead and take it off before lowering as it will make that go easier too.
I disconnected the sway bar end link, doesn't say to do this in the manual.
I disconnected the exhaust where the Y pipe meets the cat. Luckily (not really) this connection had rusted away on mine and I had welded on a make shift flange (err washers) while lying in the snow in the middle of winter... so the bolts came out easy... for me.
Once you get the subframe down far enough to get at the rack note that the nuts for the rack cover do NOT spin
so don't try to loosen them. Take the bolts out...
The rack cover seems to be the only part on the car designed for durability. The cover and the bolts used to hold it on seem a little over kill... unless it's for rigidity....
The nut size on the lines seemed to be imperial, 11/16 was the only wrench I found that felt right. I got at them from the drivers side.
Getting the lines started again is a bit of a pain, helps to have a helper to move the rack around and or raise the subframe to find the sweet spot where the lines will line up with the rack. Make sure to put the check valve in from the high pressure port of the old rack into the new rack. The rack should come centered... try to keep it centered, I had to turn it slightly to get at the pinch bolt for the rag joint, then turn it back to center. I marked it to help do this. It may also get bumped from center as you raise it in place.
I chose to weld the rear subframe nuts (to keep them from spinning) after I put the subframe back up and verified my alignment marks lined up.
Started at 8:00 am (car already on jack stands and wheels off), finished just before 10:00 pm... with one break for something to eat. Had a helper for about half that time.
Most of the threads I could find on steering gear (rack) replacement all started with "I have a leaking rack, what is involved to replace it?" followed by some suggestions and no follow up. So here are some observations and pictures. This isn't a howto. I have a copy of the Ford manual and followed it. I'll only cover things I did different. I put this off as long as I could. It got to the point where I could only go out for a short trip and back before needing to refill the PS fluid. Car is 1998 SVT Contour, manual trans.
I did not have the alignment pins mentioned in the manual, so I scribed some marks to check if the alignment of the subframe when it is put back. Seemed to go right back without any need for adjustment.
First like many said, the rear sub frame nuts spun. So I cut open the frame (I checked under the carpet and did not find any access holes) to get a wrench on the nut, I used a plasma cutter (see picture). I believe the nut size was 22 or 21 mm, I had to pry down on the wrench to keep the nut from spinning in the wrench.
The front subframe bolts came out no problem. I had to remove them completely to get the subframe low enough.
I did NOT have to support the engine (the manual does not mention supporting the engine).
I did NOT remove the lower rad supports, as the bolts looked rusty on mine so I left the mounts in in place, just made sure to work the subframe to rad support loose as the subframe is lowered. Make sure to put a nail or other pin in the rad pins that stick up (top engine side near head lights), you may need to have someone push up on the rad from below to get the hole in the pins high enough to get the nail through to support the rad.
I first tried to leave the AC condenser bolted to the subframe. This proved to be dumb as the subframe would not drop down far enough and was hung up by the condenser, so just remove the two bolts holding it to the subframe.
I did NOT remove the front roll restricter, I only removed the one horizontal bolt that goes through the roll restricter. The manual shows to remove the bracket as well.
I removed the rear roll restricter completely (per manual) but also found that I needed to remove the roll restricter mounting bracket. With it removed it was much easier getting the subframe back up into position. Note in the pictures it is still in place, as I hadn't started to put the subframe back in place yet. But go ahead and take it off before lowering as it will make that go easier too.
I disconnected the sway bar end link, doesn't say to do this in the manual.
I disconnected the exhaust where the Y pipe meets the cat. Luckily (not really) this connection had rusted away on mine and I had welded on a make shift flange (err washers) while lying in the snow in the middle of winter... so the bolts came out easy... for me.
Once you get the subframe down far enough to get at the rack note that the nuts for the rack cover do NOT spin
so don't try to loosen them. Take the bolts out...The rack cover seems to be the only part on the car designed for durability. The cover and the bolts used to hold it on seem a little over kill... unless it's for rigidity....
The nut size on the lines seemed to be imperial, 11/16 was the only wrench I found that felt right. I got at them from the drivers side.
Getting the lines started again is a bit of a pain, helps to have a helper to move the rack around and or raise the subframe to find the sweet spot where the lines will line up with the rack. Make sure to put the check valve in from the high pressure port of the old rack into the new rack. The rack should come centered... try to keep it centered, I had to turn it slightly to get at the pinch bolt for the rag joint, then turn it back to center. I marked it to help do this. It may also get bumped from center as you raise it in place.
I chose to weld the rear subframe nuts (to keep them from spinning) after I put the subframe back up and verified my alignment marks lined up.
Started at 8:00 am (car already on jack stands and wheels off), finished just before 10:00 pm... with one break for something to eat. Had a helper for about half that time.