Shortened shifters vs. short shifters

[codypka]

What are the differences/ pros/ cons between shortened stock shifters and aftermarket short shifters like B&M or Steeda etc?

Reason i ask is because i just bought a shortened stock shifter from someone here. it was kind of an impulse buy, and i dont really know much about it.

Also, the one i bought has been cut down 2", if anyone has pics of one this height please post so i can see what its gonna look like.

and one more thing, is there a how-to or a write up for how to swap out the stock shifter? or is it pretty self-explanatory once you get in there?

 

[icysvt]

you having a 2k model your shift tower is kinda funky iirc but nothing major to swap out really. alot of the short shifters for these cars are only that, just shorter which gives the idea of a shorter throw. I have a b&m and it is basically that. there are a few real short throws out there though, but are basically all focus shifters we adapt to work on the contours. with the one you have being a shorter stock shifter one good thing is you have no worries on it breaking lol.

 

[codypka]

with the one you have being a shorter stock shifter one good thing is you have no worries on it breaking lol.

ya thats one of the reasons i went with a shortened stock shifter. You always here about the aftermarket ones breaking and i certainly dont want to end up stranded.

 

[contourspd98]

Here's mine that has been cut 2.5" from stock

Length of the stocker from the bend

Length of the cut one from the bend

Installed height

 

[striker2]

there are only 2 true short throw shifters made that fit our cars, the Steeda/FRPP and the CFM. the reason these are true short throws is that the distance between the pivot ball and the lower cable mount. The Steeda lengthens it by 10mm while the CFM is 15mm longer than stock. The CFM also has an adjustable height above the pivot ball. both require a riser plate to be used in order to provide clearance on the metal style shifter bases which the CFM comes with but the Steeda does not(the plastic shifter bases in the 2000s and some 99s have to have the bottom cut out and a plate installed under the car, or swap to the metal base). all aftermarket shifters, with the exception of the CFM, have the lower cable mount welded on, which is where they usually break (the CFMs is actually a solid machined piece thats been press fit and thus has zero welds to break).

The third major shifter, and what all the knockoffs copied, is the B&M. It, as IcySVT said, is basically a shorter height shifter. the distance from the pivot ball to the lower cable mount is unchanged, and as such is not a true short shifter. a similar effect is created with a cut stock shifter, the only real difference is you can keep the reverse lockout with the B&M (not that its needed anyways) and the stock shifter has a bend in.

Steeda vs. Stock

CFM vs. Stock

highest setting

lowest setting

 

[281Thunder]

I've got a CFM set at the lowest setting. The throw is a good bit shorter than stock.

There's a write-up in the how-to section about swapping out shifters. Pretty simple. The hardest part of the whole job is getting that funky grease off your hands.

 

[striker2]

I've got a CFM set at the lowest setting. The throw is a good bit shorter than stock.

There's a write-up in the how-to section about swapping out shifters. Pretty simple. The hardest part of the whole job is getting that funky grease off your hands.

I think you and I are the only 2 with the CFM shifter. ive had mine for about a year now and love it. started out at the highest setting, which is almost as tall as stock, and the throws were still drastically shorter than stock. lowered it all the way down one day and have never looked back. :laugh:

 

[icysvt]

i spy a snail in the last 2 pics daniel!!!

 

[striker2]

i spy a snail in the last 2 pics daniel!!!

those are old pics. although it is tempting to put on the SVT since i have most everything. :crazy::laugh:

 

[KAOS_3.0]

I think you and I are the only 2 with the CFM shifter. ive had mine for about a year now and love it. started out at the highest setting, which is almost as tall as stock, and the throws were still drastically shorter than stock. lowered it all the way down one day and have never looked back. :laugh:

where do I find a cfm shifter? would it be possible to get a fidanza and alter the bottom half to decrease throw? how about on a jy stocker? just playing with ideas...

 

[striker2]

where do I find a cfm shifter? would it be possible to get a fidanza and alter the bottom half to decrease throw? how about on a jy stocker? just playing with ideas...

you can get the CFM shifter from CFM. :crazy::laugh: its not listed specifically for the Contour but if you call and talk to Hector he should know exactly what you need.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

dang, $119.95 seems a little steep. does look like a nice piece of hardware. has anybody measured the distance from the ball to the cable mount?

is it so tall that it requires that revised shifter mount?

I think I'm getting an idea...

 

[icysvt]

dang, $119.95 seems a little steep. does look like a nice piece of hardware. has anybody measured the distance from the ball to the cable mount?

is it so tall that it requires that revised shifter mount?

I think I'm getting an idea...

it will require a riser plate for the shift tower yes. Like daniel said if you call and ask for hector he will hook you up with all the right parts you need for install. I honestly think its worth every penny, it surpasses the ford racing shifter in throw and possibly price too considering you dont have to source or pay extra for the riser plate. I personally wouldnt go modifying shifters other than reinforcing the weld at the lower ball on a fidanza.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

well it's not like if a shifter fails it's going to ruin the transmission, I keep tools in the back, if I just find another stick at the junk yard I can see cutting the shaft from the ball to the cable mount down, sliding a short piece of tubing over it, and welding it or using screws through the inner shaft even. same goes for the top, accept I don't want a shorter shift knob height, just less throw.

I keep tools in my car, so if the DIY shifter where to fail, I could grab the take out out of the tool box and put it back.

worth a tray at least for the cost of a junkyard shifter.

 

[281Thunder]

The CFM shifter is a very good quality piece. In addition to the riser plate, I also had to use a few washers in between the riser plate and shifter base to get the right height.

 

[gorman]

I don't want a shorter shift knob height, just less throw................worth a try at least for the cost of a junkyard shifter.

X2; i'm with you all the way on this one. I want to retain the reverse lockout.... i would also be interested to know how much height you can cut off the stock shifter and retain the lockout ...G.

 

[BrApple]

X2; i'm with you all the way on this one. I want to retain the reverse lockout.... i would also be interested to know how much height you can cut off the stock shifter and retain the lockout ...G.

if you want a closer to stock height shifter get a steeda or the adjustable CFM. the B&M is the one that is the shortest. also all of those shifter retain the reverse lockout.

 

[striker2]

if you want a closer to stock height shifter get a steeda or the adjustable CFM. the B&M is the one that is the shortest. also all of those shifter retain the reverse lockout.

the CFM does not. however its not needed, and im not sure why anyone would really want to keep it. its not like the shift tower lockout will let you go from 5th to reverse anyways. you have to go to neutral first.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

+ one about the reverse lock out, although I do sort of miss playing with it at stop lights, haha

I need to go look at what its all like under the boot more closely, but an interesting thing I hadnt thought uf is that the riser plate and some washers will actually help get the shift knob back up near your hand. I dont want to have to reach down to the cup spillers everythime I have to shift, especially with these 4.08's in there.

fyi, a 3.0 with 4.08's is pretty shift happy unless you want to skip gears...

 

[Tex]

+ one about the reverse lock out, although I do sort of miss playing with it at stop lights, haha

I need to go look at what its all like under the boot more closely, but an interesting thing I hadnt thought uf is that the riser plate and some washers will actually help get the shift knob back up near your hand. I dont want to have to reach down to the cup spillers everythime I have to shift, especially with these 4.08's in there.

fyi, a 3.0 with 4.08's is pretty shift happy unless you want to skip gears...

The duratec final drive is a 4.06, all knowing one. http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=specs