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Reprogramming a Key?

ajb44

New CEG'er
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
25
My car runs, then shuts off after idling for a bit due to this stupid PATS system. I'm assuming something is wrong with the chip in my key, sadly. Do I have to take this to ford to get it reprogrammed? Or can a locksmith? Thanks!
 
Need more info on your vehicle and what happens when the car shuts off. Usually after the car has been started PATS is disabled. I think you might have other reasons that your car is shutting off on idle such as a vac leak, bad IAC valve, etc etc.
 
What year is your car? Is this the only key you have?

Also, does the PATS light blink after it shuts off? If not, this is not a PATS issue.
 
Well at first it wouldn't even start, just crank, because of the system. So I don't imagine any other problems would have occured in the one day that it sat in my garage. It's at Dobbs at the moment, should I ask them to check? I just want to drive. I'm tempted to drive it into a lake so...

It's a 98.
 
Oh contour lol. Yeah I called ford and they said what you said, if it starts it's not a PATS problem. But dobbs checked everything else and said everythings intact so idk what to do. I loved SVT's and ford till now. Second one and I'm on the verge of lighting it on fire.
 
Is your check engine light on? What codes does it show? How does the engine harness look? cracked/ flaking wiring?
 
Is your check engine light on? What codes does it show? How does the engine harness look? cracked/ flaking wiring?
CEL is not on. No codes are being shown. Everything looks fine. Dobbs checked everything after I did as well. Got an appointment with Ford so. Here's the thing. The other day, fuel hose busted, replaced it no big deal. Car would just crank. And the security light was blinking rapidly like I'd never seen before. Dobbs said they could fix it, took it there...they said it started right up for them, then would just shut off after idling.
 
either your key is on the fritz for some odd reason or your engine harness is starting to short inernally I would imagine.


Question why did your fuel line bust? wonder if it popped any fuses.
 
My car runs, then shuts off after idling for a bit due to this stupid PATS system. I'm assuming something is wrong with the chip in my key, sadly. Do I have to take this to ford to get it reprogrammed? Or can a locksmith? Thanks!

No. Once the engine starts, PATS is no longer in the picture. You're blaming the wrong thing for your stalling.
 
Man thats weird my car has been acting weird to ill drive home from work,I pull up to the mail box,shut off car,get mail,try and start car and it wont start and pats light blinks crazy and then will start after a few tries.....very odd.......then the other day i turned car off for a few seconds to pick someone up then started up drove off and 1/4 mile up the road the rpm dropped but car was still on pushed gas and wouldnt go anywhere and pats light was blinking crazy when i tried to restart lol i wish it didnt have pats
 
From time to time, a programmer will trigger the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) on an Excursion, Lightning, Mustang,contour or other PATS equipped vehicles. This is caused by a loss of communication between the PCM and the PATS module which triggers the PATS module to go into "THEFT" mode and disable the PCM for a period of time. Some vehicles are more sensitive than others in regards to what triggers the PATS system with some vehicles triggering it during some sessions and not in others.

In the event that this does occur and the "THEFT" light is flashing, use the following procedure to restore vehicle functionality.
Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not attempt to start the vehicle.
The "THEFT" light will begin flashing rapidly (twice a second). After about 60 seconds, the "THEFT" light will stop flashing rapidly and begin a sequence of slow flashes (usually 1 blink, followed by 6 blinks).
Turn the key to the "OFF" position and completely remove the key from the ignition and hold at least two feet away from the steering column for 30 seconds.
Insert the key and turn to the "ON" position. Wait for the normal engine checking procedure to take place. The "THEFT" light should no longer be flashing. At this point you should be able to start the vehicle.
If, after completing the above reset procedure, your vehicle still won’t start and the theft light is blinking rapidly, check to ensure that the PCM is not disabled by going to the Diagnostic Menu of your programmer and then checking for any DTCs.

If the PCM is not disabled, it should respond with a P1260 DTC (Theft Detected / Vehicle Immobilized) along with any other possible DTCs that may be stored. If this is the case, turn the key to the "OFF" position and remove the ground (-) battery cable for a period of ONE HOUR to allow the theft codes to clear. Re-attach the cables and attempt to start the vehicle.

If the PCM is disabled and the programmer is not able to read any DTCs or other data from the PCM, you may try restoring the vehicle back to the original stock calibration.

but with everything you said is happening , sounds like your pcm is going, but first try a spare key if you have one
and if you recently havnt replaced your fuel fitler now would be a good time to do so
 
Yeah I'm not sure and Ford didn't wanna work on it because they're useless. So I'm getting it back today and I'll be sure to give you guys a heads up when I get it back because I could use all the help available.
 
PCM/Fuel Pump...FINAL POST

PCM/Fuel Pump...FINAL POST

Well the car is cranking but not getting fuel. And Ford told us they think the PCM is fried. Car is a 98 Contour SVT. 3l Taurus engine. Here's my question, do I buy a PCM for a 98 svt, or do I buy a PCM for a 3l taurus?
 
we need more info . you say the car is cranking, is it cranking slowly or soleniod clicks?battery voltage?any codes?need all the info you can give

id check if your cam sensor , and crank sensor are fully plugged in. that could cause it not to start.
 
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