Replacing sub frame.

[THETACHIchris]

okay so it seems that my subframe is beginning to fail and need to be replaced. It is bending up towards the axle so much so that the axle actually rubs on the subframe. my question is this, what all is attached to the subframe, do i absolutely need to pull the engine and transmission to replace it, and is the subframe the same in all contiques?

 

[mcgarvey]

The motor mounts and control arms are connected to the subframe, along with various brackets. Support the engine and transmission from the top using a crossbeam, and unbolt all the motor mounts. Disconnect the control arms from the knuckles and drop the subframe. You definitely do not need to remove the engine or transmission. Replace the control arms while you have it off the car.

 

[THETACHIchris]

alright thanks a lot

 

[Redlineracer12]

Don't unbolt the upper mounts (at least I never have). The ones that support the weight of the transmission and engine. You will have to deal with the steering rack, radiator/fans, ball joints, roll resistors (lower mounts), and some A/C parts.

If you are trying to find a replacement subframe you might want to match control arm type (2 bolt or 4 bolt) and you need to match Engine/Transmission combo. For instance if you have a 2 bolt V6 5 speed you would need one from a V6 5 speed, but can go with either 4 bolt or 2 bolt control arm style.

Also the one I removed a the JY the nuts for the subframe bolts running into the passenger compartment were spinning. This required me to lift the carpet and cut out the slotted section of the floor where I could get at the bolt to hold it with a wrench.

 

[svttouruofl]

Also the one I removed a the JY the nuts for the subframe bolts running into the passenger compartment were spinning. This required me to lift the carpet and cut out the slotted section of the floor where I could get at the bolt to hold it with a wrench.

Mine did this on my SVT also when I recently dropped the entire subframe with everything still mounted on it. I was supporting it all from the top with an engine lift so what I ended up doing was dropping the engine a bit to put some pressure on the bolt and then I spun it off with the impact. I had no problem getting it to tighten back up either.

 

[zorrex]

The nuts in the subframe are almost guaranteed to be broken free. You can cut holes in the side of the subframe to gain access to the nuts. However, it is easy to strip them, so be careful. In addition to what Redlineracer12 posted, you will also need to deal with the PS lines. Not really a big deal, just pointing it out.

 

[imnotacop420]

The nuts in the subframe are almost guaranteed to be broken free. You can cut holes in the side of the subframe to gain access to the nuts. However, it is easy to strip them, so be careful. In addition to what Redlineracer12 posted, you will also need to deal with the PS lines. Not really a big deal, just pointing it out.

Hmmm.....I have those holes in my subframe, wonder why the subframe had to be taken apart????

 

[zorrex]

Hmmm.....I have those holes in my subframe, wonder why the subframe had to be taken apart????

Probably to get to the swaybar bushings. That would be my first guess...

 

[BrApple]

Probably to get to the swaybar bushings. That would be my first guess...

clutch, trans, engine, controll arms, powersteering rack, etc .... Ford procedure has the engine trans combo coming out the bottom with the subframe.


also if you don't want to drill holes in the body of the car there are access panels under the carpet in the passanger compartment

 

[imnotacop420]

clutch, trans, engine, controll arms, powersteering rack, etc .... Ford procedure has the engine trans combo coming out the bottom with the subframe.


also if you don't want to drill holes in the body of the car there are access panels under the carpet in the passanger compartment

I purchased the car 5 years ago with 48K miles, I would hope none of that needed replaced prior to me buying it. I guess its time to look it up on carfax.......