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Removing axles

P

PurpleMystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
2,602
Location
Greater Des Moines Area
I'm in the process of replacing my clutch, but I can't find anywhere that definitively says how to remove the axles. I have the tie rod and sway bar disconnected, the caliper is removed, the ball joint is out, but I don't know how to actually get the axle out of the MTX. If I pull on the whole hub assembly, the CV joint disengages and the boot stretches. I saw someone mentioned a slide hammer, but I'm not sure how that will help when nothing that I can see is solidly connected to the inner axle. Help?
 
slide hammer. you attach the CV joint adapter to the slide hammer and then slip it around the inner cv joint cup, right next to the trans on the drivers side or the bearing on the passenger side.
 
How else would it stay in there? :troutslap: The clips should be replaced before reinstall. Never had an issue reinstalling. I use a solid style axle nut and spin it on far enough so it still sticks out past the end of the end of the axle. Grab a 5 lb hammer and pound it in. After the axle is seated I remove the nut and put on the Ford stacked style. Tighten to 200 ft lbs.

Removal: Just as star posted. Slide hammer with CV adapter. Easy peazy.
 
I've taken this right from the Haynes manual.

1. Remove the wheel cover from the wheel, apply the parking brake and engage 1st gear or "P" Loosen the hub nut about half a turn. This nut is very tight.
2. Loosen the front wheel retaining nuts.
3. Apply the parking brake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on jack-stands. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the front brake disc.
5. Completely unscrew and remove the hub/drive-axle retaining nut.
6. Retain the suspension strut piston with an Allen key, then loosen the strut support mounting nut and unscrew it five complete turns. It is not necessary to remove the nut at this stage, but note that a new one will be required on installation. Where necessary , detach the ABS wiring from the strut.
7. Unscrew the nut securing the stabilizer bar link to the front suspension strut , and position the link to one side.
8. Extract the cotter pin from the tie-rod end ball-joint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the rod from the arm on the steering knuckle using a conventional ball-joint removal tool. Take care not to damage the ball-joint seal.
9. Note which way the front suspension lower arm ball-joint clamp bolt is installed, then unscrew and remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever the ball-joint down from the knuckle, if it is tight, carefully pry the clamp open using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to damage the ball-joint seal during the separation procedure.
10. Using a universal puller located on the hub flange, press the drive-axle through the front hub and steering knuckle by pulling the knuckle outwards. When the drive-axle is free, support it on a jack-stand, making sure that the inner tripod joint is not turned through more than 18 degrees (damage may occur if the joint is turned though too great an angle.)

LEFT SIDE

11. Insert lever between the inner CV joint and the transaxle case, with a thin piece of weed against the case. Pry free the inner joint from the differential. If it proves reluctant to move, strike the lever firmly with the palm of the hand. Be careful not to damage the adjacent components. and be prepared for oil spillage. Note that if the right drive-axle has already been removed, it is possible to release the left drive-axle by inserting a forked drift from the right side. However, care must be taken to prevent damage to the differential gears, particularly if the special tool is not used.
12. Withdraw the drive-axle from under the vehicle.
13. Extract the cir-clip from the groove on the inner end of the drive-axle, and obtain a new one.

RIGHT SIDE

14. The right drive-axle may either be removed complete with the intermediate shaft from the transaxle, or it may be disconnected from the outer end off the intermediate shaft. If the latter course of action is taken, use a soft faced mallet to sharply tap the inner CV joint housing from the intermediate shaft. The internal cir-clip will be released, and the drive-axle may be withdrawn from the splines.
15. Extract the cir-clip from the groove on the outer end of the intermediate shaft. Obtain a new cir-clip for use when installation.
16. If the complete drive-axle is to be removed, proceed as follows. Unscrew the bolts securing the drive-axle support bearing bracket to the rear of the cylinder block, and remove the heat shield
17. Withdraw the complete drive-axle from the transaxle and from the bearing bracket, and remove it from under the vehicle.

BOTH SIDES

18. Check the condition of the transaxle oil seals, and if necessary replace them. Check the support bearing,and if necessary replace it.
 
And sometimes it just won't come out

And sometimes it just won't come out

In pulling my transmission, I could NOT get the drivers side axel out, not with a slide hammer, not by trying to drive it out from the passenger side, nothing would work. Finally pulled it with the trans, when the trans was out and laying with the torque converter side down, it just popped out. The old clip was pretty torn up and looked like it was stretched out. I surmized that the ends of the clip were catching on the spline lip and even though I rotated the axel many times, it wouldn't release.

For certain, put on a new clip so that it will go back in easily and the next owner won't have such a problem.

Good luck
 
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