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Remote Entry Problem

W

Westwildcat

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
240
Ok so I had my car parked and thought the batteries went dead on my remote for the keyless entry on my 99 SVT. So I went and bought new batteries for the remote, then when I got back to the car to try it it still wouldnt work. Then I got thinking and noticed I left my lights on in my car and killed the battery and thats why it wouldnt work, the car was dead, not the remote. Oh ya, the doors on the car were swapped from another car, so the key wouldnt work to get in either obviously. I ended up having to get a locksmith to get in to my car, and now am using the key from the parts car that the doors came from to get in the car. So my question is why doesnt my remote entry work now? What did I do to wreck it? Just by taking it apart to change batteries?

Any Ideas?
 
Key FOB needs to be reprogrammed.

Step 1: key in ignition to the ON position (all indicator lights on)
Step 2: Locate small white connector on the passenger side hanging near the ECU, has 2 ports, yellow inside where the ports are
Step 3: Bend a paperclip into a U and bridge the 2 ports, horn will honk to acknowledge programming mode
Step 4: Press any button on key FOB, horn will honk to acknowledge it's programmed
Step 5: (Optional) Do the same for any other FOBs you want
Step 6: Turn key off, horn will honk again to acknowledge exiting programming mode
Step 7: Unplug paperclip and store for later use
 
BTW it was not the batteries in the remote you have to worry about, it's the car battery, keyless entry module has a capacitor that will store some charge for a while, but completely killing, or disconnecting the battery for extended amounts of time will make it discharge and you will need to reprogram the remote.

The remote contains nothing but batteries and 4 different signals, the remotes' ID is stored in the keyless entry module in the car.
 
So I short it out on the plug and the horn honks, but when I press a button on the remote, nothing happens?

I tried with leaving the wire in shorting across the plug and also with pulling it out after the horn honks?
 
Leave the jumper in, steps 6 and 7 may be flipped, thinking they are, but you leave the jumper in until the car honks to acknowledge the remote, otherwise it's time to make sure the batteries in the remote work and aren't in upside down.
 
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