Howdy,
1) It is a PIA, but very doable with a bit of patience and tenacity.
2) Don’t rush make sure you disconnect everything. Until you get to the dash pad itself things come apart easily. Most all electrical connectors have a release on them USE IT don’t break anything remember it has to go back together. Get a manual (I used a Haynes) read it then keep it with you when you do it. Double check to see that you have everything out of your way, and allow room to work. Did I mention don’t break anything. Don’t rush it.
3) You are the only one that can answer this question… It is your time and money being put into your project and you have to live with the results, and drive it. I always try to do something at least as good as someone that I would pay to do it, but I tend to be a perfectionist.
The process: (if you dare)
I should admit that I did this at a wrecking yard for practice and I wanted the wiring harness for the dash……..
Disconnect the (+) battery connection then
I need plenty of room to work … removed the seats first.
Disconnect the (-) battery connection this gives time for the reserve power for the air bag to drain out. IF you disconnect the (-) terminal without waiting at least 1 minute (I’m chicken and wait at least 10 minutes) it wont drain off and you could pop off the air bag which is never a good thing!
Removed the center console. Pay attention to the removal shifter ATX, or shift knob MTX do it right.
Removed kick paned below the steering column, and glovebox.
Removed the steering wheel. WATCH OUT NOT TO BREAK ANY CONNECTORS OR HARNESS FASTENERS. First undo the little blue grease seal at the slip joint careful not to break it. The covers, and wiring harness. Then remove the 4 bolts.
Remove all the dash trim, switches, gauges, clock, radio, etc. Look for hidden screws that you may have missed this stuff comes apart fairly easily.
Remove the weather stripping on the front doors.
Remove the “A” pillar trims.
Remove the little trim piece at the sides of the dash pad right adjacent to the door frame.
Disconnect all electrical connections to the fuse box under the dash, and the junction box on the passengers side. I removed the kick panel covers and they go all the way to the rear seat. The screws in them are plastic, except for the last one, and spread the keepers to lock them in place. Remove the screws and then gently pry near the screw holes to pop it loose.
Remove the fuse box.
Remove the bolts for the dash pad. There are at least two maybe three in the center area in supports, and 3 on each side where you removed the little trim piece. The other bolts there are for the stiffener that does not need to be removed.
Recheck that every connector is disconnected and bolt is out.
In addition to the bolts the pad is held in place by a couple of tight fitting clamps that grab onto rubber coated nubs about 3” long protruding from the firewall. You have to give a good pull to get them off. Now the book says to have two people remove the dash pad, but all I had was me, myself, and I to do it. I didn’t care if I banged it up a bit. Extra hands would be very helpful especially with installation.
THAT’S IT you should now have it in your lap ready to get out the door and beautify it, and you should be appreciating the extra room from the removal of the front seats about now.
Installation is the reverse process.
IF you do this be sure to use the right coatings on the plastic and vinyl so in a few months it wont be ratty looking from the UV rays.
Clean all parts, replace all light bulbs in gauges that wont be accessible again without disassembly.
Post a pic when your done
My 2 cents
So if I do the swap, the dash will have to be pulled. TIA!