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Question About Fuel Pump

unless you are going forced induction there isn't a need to upgrade the fuel pump. also it depends on your fuel system anyway ...

motorcraft or autolite.
 
because I don't want to start a new fuel pump thread and have searched them all...what is the friggin tool number for replacing the fuel pump lock ring? Mine doesn't seem to be as easy as most have experienced. I had 2 of us (larger dudes) hammer it on but low and behold I believe the gasket slipped out a bit during this action and I now have a CEL for small leak in system (evap/fuel code one). So in lieu of spending a bunch of time hammering the ring back on in the tiny confines of the back seat I'd rather use the appropriate tool unless someone else has used it with limited success.

Thanks in advance.
 
btw its a 2000 CSVT and I dropped in the 255lph pump. aside from the stupid CEL due to the small leak i incurred from reinstall I highly recommend this pump. Pull from secondary to red is more consistent at WOT and magically I am getting 9-10 miles more out of a tank of gas (likely back to stock mileage because previous pump was so bad it had limited pull at lower fuel levels?)
 
jibbajibba56 said:
I dropped in the 255lph pump......... I highly recommend this pump. Pull from secondary to red is more consistent at WOT ..........previous pump was so bad it had limited pull at lower fuel levels?)
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A few guys have installed a pump and regulator on return system cars ... and found it boosted the N/A engine quite a bit. Stock pump and reg. i guess are geared towards economy and emissions.

I take it that your car is non return... so no regulator necessary .... is that right ? ....G.
 
I didn't want to start a new thread since this one is already relevent. I'm getting ready to replace the fuel pump in my 2000 SVT, and I want to make sure I'm ordering the right pump. I searched the forums and most of the info I found was about for return style fuel systems. My car is returnless.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I need Motorcraft part #PFS289. Amazon.com has them for $280.

Is this correct? Thanks guys.
 
gorman said:
A few guys have installed a pump and regulator on return system cars ... and found it boosted the N/A engine quite a bit. Stock pump and reg. i guess are geared towards economy and emissions.

I take it that your car is non return... so no regulator necessary .... is that right ? ....G.
Click to expand...

R u talking fuel pressure regulator? Not sure what you mean but I do have a regulator as well at the rail. It is indeed a returnless. I know the pump works well as its been in for 9 months no problems other than the small leak code which came on shortly after we got that lock ring back in place however I always smell gas for the first half of the tank on fill up when I'm in the car windows up. When I open the sunroof the smell gets worse. I assume that because we had a heck of a time getting that locking back on that I may have fudged the gasket a bit (along with having the code scanned and the smell circumstances.). maybe you know some things I don't about what this could be other than that gasket or my fuel system (very likely I had no idea what I was doing other than the pump goes here and this is called a swirlpot and that is called a sending unit). Let me know your thoughts, I love having help
 
the only reason I am concerned with getting the tool to check the gasket is because I moved from Ohio (non inspection state) to Texas (inspection) and need to pass the emissions inspection and can't with a CEL on unless I pay the guy extra to ignore. I'm not in the bribery business but I am not above it if it is deemed necessary to get the car registered.
 
Smokinjoe said:
I was under the impression that part #PFS289 WAS the upgraded pump. Is this correct?

It's the fuel pump and hanger with sender. http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-PF...LYAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312388235&sr=8-1
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Im not sure that is the right pump. The from factory pump has the hat and assembly separate, which looks like what is shown in the link.

The updated pump is one piece where the hat and assembly are one.

The part number looks correct (PFS289) picture is wrong though. I confirmed here http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOT0/PFS289.oap?year=2000&make=Ford&model=Contour&vi=1362259&ck=Search_C0401_1362259_3163&pt=C0401&ppt=C0025Assemble has been redesigned 4 times! I was looking for one last month, they are hard to get and on back order with a unknown delivery date. This is coming from my local Dealer, Steve a Tousley and O'Riely's ( Advanced/Checkers).

I ended up going with a Carter pump and have had no problems. Other than the float is more accurate (can get more miles before light comes on)

http://www.pepboys.com/catalog/partresult?category=9&group=11

Pepboys got it in the same day.



951074990.jpg

987888044.jpg


The Carter pump is also the one that can come form NAPA.

Instructions for install ( you need to copy the posted links into the explorer bar) There are images linked further down the page that help too.

http://www.fordcontour.org/topic/10804-returnless-fuel-pump-installation-instructions/

The four black tabs are attached to the bottom of the tank they come up through the swirl bowl retaining ring and bend at a upside down "L". You will need to cut with a shard razor or use the $200 tool between the retaining ring and the tab horizontally.Try to make it one pass to avoid shavings. This is one thing that isnt very clear and i tried cuyting vertically which lead no where.

I had the pleasure of doing this in 100* weather, full tank of gas and a bloody hand. It was all very bad timing. Its simple if you take you time and use common sense.

TE
 
jibbajibba56 said:
R u talking fuel pressure regulator? Not sure what you mean but I do have a regulator as well at the rail. It is indeed a returnless.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression non return systems have ecu controlled fuel pressure, i'm sure one of the non return guys can give you a heads up on that.. I mentioned the regulator because if you stick a high volume pump on a return style, without an adjustable regulator, you can have pressure problems. It's ideal for tuning too.

jibbajibba56 said:
I know the pump works well as its been in for 9 months no problems
Click to expand...

my experience is... 255L pumps work much better ... you won't know unless you try one. Also; there are guys on here, that have found the same.

jibbajibba56 said:
When I open the sunroof the smell gets worse.
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air is being drawn in from under the car, then up and out of the roof. You could get some gasoline proof sealant and put a thin film on both sides of the rubber gasket and it should seal up OK ... i've done that in the past and not had a problem. You need to inspect the rubber gasket to make sure that it is not damaged beyond use.

jibbajibba56 said:
this is called a swirlpot and that is called a sending unit). Let me know your thoughts, I love having help
Click to expand...

i don't think you have a swirl pot. This is an external tank that is for reducing fuel starvation in high performance setups. Definately get a service manual or haynes manual... they can help loads if you're new to all this .... G.
 
Thanks for the heads up. Yeah it is ecu regulated pressure and a fuel rail fuel pressure regulator is on the rail for sure as is with most efi systems. I have the Haynes manual but it pretty much stinks imo seems dated in regards to the 2000 csvt. It shows the smaller pump with return setup. I guess I call it a swirl pot becausebit looks like a swirl pot but yeah its prolly not exactly a swirl pot. Anyways what brand gas proof sealent did you use? I can't imagine the gasket came off the recess as when I shut off the pump and ran the gas out of the line then disconnected the battery the cel went away. (I'm driving it again). Maybe the fuel line connection was a little off because when I disconnected it then reconnected it seemed to have gone on the sender outlet further? Can those seals be replaced?

Thanks
 
Okay stumbled across my autozone scan print out and it is code p0442. I remember looking this up and seeing that it is actually EVAP emissions related and could be
"...
Aftermarket EVAP parts that do not conform to specifications
CV solenoid stays partially open when commanded to close
EVAP component seals leaking (i.e., leaks in the Purge valve, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve)
Fuel filler cap damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed
Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP components
Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses or EVAP canister tubes..."

I assumed it was from the sender unit/tank interface gasket due to how hard it was installed but i suppose i should check the rest of those things. This actually could be as stupid as a gas cap for once haha hopefully an $8 fix and not an $800 fix. I shall now search the P0442 fixes I am sure it is one of those prevelant mystery codes
 
jibbajibba56 said:
I assumed it was from the sender unit/tank interface gasket due to how hard it was installed but i suppose i should check the rest of those things. This actually could be as stupid as a gas cap for once haha hopefully an $8 fix and not an $800 fix. I shall now search the P0442 fixes I am sure it is one of those prevelant mystery codes
Click to expand...

I think you presume right. Before you go chasing every possibility, ask yourself two questions

1. Did i have this problem before i worked on my car. (in your case, the code)

2. What did i actually touch when i worked on the car.

This can save a lot of searching.

I used an anaerobic blue hylomar sealant ....G.
 
yep homemade smoke tester to ensue. involves dry ice water and a shop vac...we shall see what is the culprit. Small leaks tend to be a bear to find.

BTW I'm not so sure the Focus SVT pump flows more volume however I believe it falls under the revised category as far as design of the entire unit (suspended i believe as opposed to clipped into the tank?) Maybe I'm wrong but the gist I got was the FSVT pump was no better than the CSVT.

I'll do what I can to make a howto vid on the smoke testing.
 
jibbajibba56 said:
the Focus SVT pump flows more volume however I believe it falls under the revised category as far as design of the entire unit (suspended i believe as opposed to clipped into the tank?) Maybe I'm wrong but the gist I got was the FSVT pump was no better than the CSVT.
Click to expand...

sorry my bad ...over here in the UK we have the ST focus with 225bhp and the RS focus with 300bhp.

Try talking to these guys .. they ship worldwide and have pumps in excess of what you need and for less than the replacement pumps i've seen you guys putting up with
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Focus-RS-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a68ad0735 ..GL ...G.
 
why does the UK get all the nice toys. I'd drive an ST Focus any day of the week, a standard corners like a champ add some power to boot and I'm a buyer
 
the gasket is indeed in need of being replaced. looks like when we got the lock ring down finally the gasket slid over the lip of the flange and got a little slice in it. found my small leak. Any one know if I can just make a gasket? It seems that these replacement gaskets that come with the pumps are a little on the one size fits most. The force required to install the one i ruined was unreal. I've done a fuel pump on a ranger and an f150 and it was nothing like that. Sure it took some pressure but not like this. Anyways, maybe someone knows the part number so I can order it or knows if a form-a-gasket type product (maybe the anaerobic blue mentioned earlier by G) can be used as stand alone with better success/ease of installation for the garage mechanic with only one set of hands. I'd hate to have to drop that friggin tank again the filler neck fasteners had me scared that I broke them last time.
 
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