• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

PCM or ECM

And you are being told by CEG, who knows these cars better than anybody, that the filter is NOT serviceable unless the transmission is disassembled.
 
I'm not trying to be a pain in the you know what. I'm just fustrated cause I have gone and replaced so many things, with out any problems being really resolved. So basically with the filter, I was shown a box that is stuck up between the engine and the radiator. I was told that once the radiator is removed, then I can open that box, and the filter is in there. Dump all the fluid drive a bit, dump again, do that about 3 times, then replace the filter and refill. Now if I am being told something wrong, I greatlly appreciate that you guys are letting me know. I am by no means a mechanic and come here for as much help as I can get. If I come accross as being rude or untrusting, I appologize. I just want to make sure, before I go and replace more parts. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
No problem. I probably came off as harsh. Most mechanics are honestly just out to make money, so they will give you a laundry list of things that "need" to be done, yet it still won't necessarily fix your problem.
 
abramenko said:
I'm just fustrated cause I have gone and replaced so many things, with out any problems being really resolved.
Click to expand...
Your frustrated because all your guesses are not fixing your car, yet you continue to guess at the problem? I hope you're not still following advice from the person that told you to replace all those trans sensors for a surge without any codes. :blackeye:

ATX's are special beasts. If there was anything else wrong with your car, someone here could probabaly walk you through step-by-step, exactly how to fix it. ATX's just aren't that simple. If it is DEFINITELY a transmission problem, you need an experienced trans tech to drive it & feel exactly what's going on. For the price of the drain & fills that you're about to do, you could get said good diagnosis from a reputable transmission shop. I have always had good experiences with Mr. Transmission, if you have any in your area... or you can keep throwing parts & money at it.

Either way, keep us updated.
 
zorrex said:
FYI, bad transmission sensors don't always throw DTC codes. For example, bad VSS, MLPS, or TSS may not throw a code.
Click to expand...
Edited for correctness. :cool: Whether or not a bad sensor throws a code, regardless of sensor type, depends on how it's failed. So you're right, any sensor can be bad and not throw a code. My point was that a true trans surge WILL eventually throw a code.

Replacing X or Y sensor in an attempt to fix a perceived trans surge is a very ineffective way to go about things.
 
New symtoms

New symtoms

Ok so I have a new symtom. While driving, the o/d light started blinking on and off. The CEL was on as well. Pulled the code and here is what i get: Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input. My repair book I have doesn't have anything that I can find about where that is or anythign about it. Any ideas guys? Location, testing, replacing?? Actually it may be in my book, but the back half to the index is gone, so no looking it up there.
 
Last edited:
Was there a number associated with the code description?

The trans range sensor is the under the battery tray. It has a decently large, rectangular connector. If that is one of the sensors that you've already replaced, you probably didn't align it properly when you installed the new one - you'll have to redo it. If you have NOT replaced that sensor, I would recommend posting the code here so that we can direct you with the appropriate troubleshooting steps to be SURE the sensor is faulty before replacing it. Either way, you could just have a bad connection so the first thing you should do is unplug the connector and make sure all the pins are clean and straight. If so, put some dieletric grease on them & plug the connector back in making sure that the retainer clip *clicks* into place. Now you have to clear the code & drive the car to see if it comes back... unless you can run an engine running test with whatever diag tool you're working with.
 
The code that is being posted is 708. I finnaly the sensor in the book. It is named slightly different. I found where the book tells me I need a special tool to align. I have never replaced this sensor, as I had no idea about it. The car has never thrown this code before. Tonight when I get home from work, I planned on getting to the sensor and cleaning it all off. Some of the other sensor connections that I replaced before were pretty gunky inside on the pins. So I will clean this one and drive it to see what happens. At this point, I am just glad that I "may" have found what is causing the problems.
 
yes thats what the book tells me. None of the part stores seem to know what i am talking about though.
 
zorrex said:
FYI, bad transmission sensors don't always throw DTC codes. For example, bad VSS, MLPS, or TSS will not throw a code.
Click to expand...
Correction on above statement.

A bad VSS may have a P0501 for the Contour.
A bad TSS may have a P0718 for the Contour.

I've had the above two CEL codes (lighted) before.

The MLPS may have a P0708 code (as posted by others). I have not had P0708 yet.
 
well either way, I have a new MLPS that I picked up. I was trying to find out where to get the special tool for aligning it. The book just says "special tool". And everywhere I call, they all seem to not know what it is.
 
abramenko said:
well either way, I have a new MLPS that I picked up. I was trying to find out where to get the special tool for aligning it. The book just says "special tool". And everywhere I call, they all seem to not know what it is.
Click to expand...
You don't need the "special" tool. Just line it up by the white lines. Or use a straight edge if you want to.
 
Tony2005 said:
You don't need the "special" tool. Just line it up by the white lines. Or use a straight edge if you want to.
Click to expand...

Or place the shift lever in reverse, turn the ignition to RUN, and have somebody watch the backup lamps while you adjust it. Verify the adjustment by making sure the starter will crank in both park and neutral.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top