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PCM or ECM

A

abramenko

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
15
Ok heres the situation, I have a 2000 contour v6 that has been giving me some strange probs. First it was giving me a code that told me insuficient flow to the egr. Replaced the hoses the valve and the sensor. Still the same thing. Then the tranny started acting up. It would start surgeing rpms at 40 to 60 mph. So checked and replaced a few more sensors. Speed sensors, tps sensor and another one dcfm or some such sensor. Anyways probelm with the tranny still there. New symptom has showed up. When driving, the car looses power. It stays driving, but the radio resets, and the speedometr drops to 0 and then shoots back up multiple times every couple seconds. I am being told that it is the computer more then likely. (all thease sensors being replaced with no fix) Book says I have a pcm which I located, under the glove box. Other sites I have seen tell me ecm. Is there a differnece between the two. Some sites say that they are interchangeable. Any ideas would be awesome. At this point price isn't really a problem, I just am getting tired of replacing everything, only to have it start back up 5 mins after driving it again.
 
Make sure you don't have bad engine or body harnesses before you try to change computer. Many contours have problems with the harness wiring insulation getting brittle and cracking. Once this happens wires short out and many interesting failures start to happen. (there was a ford recall for this also)
 
yea I would check the harness. I had random issues with mine. the computer is a pretty reliable. my harness was so brittle i had to replace it. check the classifieds here. PCM/ECM is the same thing with different names.
 
to the OP. with a 2k you shouldn't have wiring harness issues as being discussed here.

please get and post the codes that where read.

a insufficient egr code normally would be a P0401 and that means the tb needs to be removed and the passages behind it cleaned.

for the atx how is the fluid? are there any codes for the atx?

sounds like you need to check you connections at the battery also. also test the battery. when they start to go bad or are low on voltage the insturment cluster will begin to act up.
 
ok the tb was all checked and cleaned when the check engine came on. That is the only code. The fluid is good. The battery was just replaced about a month ago because it went dead. Funny thing, my girl just texted and told me the car is dead again. Won't start light up or anything. It's just strange they are all popping up at once. As for tranny codes, nothing has ever come up for that. Just the egr code.
 
abramenko said:
ok the tb was all checked and cleaned when the check engine came on. That is the only code. The fluid is good. The battery was just replaced about a month ago because it went dead. Funny thing, my girl just texted and told me the car is dead again. Won't start light up or anything. It's just strange they are all popping up at once. As for tranny codes, nothing has ever come up for that. Just the egr code.
Click to expand...
You said the TB was checked and cleaned, but to clarify, it's not the TB that would need cleaned, but the passages in the intake manifold, which you need to remove the TB to get to. Now, if you're POSITIVE your EGR passages are clear, the next, and often most likely culprit of an 0401 is the DPFE sensor... is that the sensor you already replaced? If so, did the code come back immediately after clearing when you ran a self test, or did you drive it for a while before it came back?... you DID clear the code correct?

As for your new battery dying, you either have a parasitic draw somewhere, or your alternator isn't charging like it should... the latter being the more likely under normal circumstances.
 
I'd wager at the very least, your alternator is dying. The alternators on these cars are crap, and that will explain your radio and gauge issues.
 
Yes the dpfe is the weird sensor I could not rememeber that we changed. And I clear the cel everytime I fix something to see if its the problem. Can't remember how soon it came back on afterwards, but it wasn't instantly. I usually takes about a mile or 2 of driving first. I'm not really to worried about that code, its more the tranny at this point. At times the amount of shifting in and out of gears makes it almost unbarable. Unfortunally its my only car so I have no choice. Good think is my house is only about 2 miles straight shot to work. As for the tb i will check all that over again to make sure. I did a small inspection of everything connecting up to it when I did the tbs ohm test. But I could have missed something. And now the alternator. Damn one thing after another with this car!!
 
abramenko said:
I'm not really to worried about that code, its more the tranny at this point.
Click to expand...
A clogged cat can cause all of the symptoms you're describing... frying the alternator is a LONG shot, but the rest can be typical with a severe exhaust restriction. That would be the next thing I looked at if I were you.
 
ok found out the problem with the battery. Wire going of the terminal was extremely loose. Pulled it out and rewired it all up now good to go. Now it's just the tranny still. I am going to have the filter and fluid replaced hopefully that will do it.
 
atx filter is not replacable unless the atx is removed and rebuilt. that being said do not reverse flush the atx. best to do the drain and fill 3 times.
 
I should have clerified better, the loss of power wasn't an engine loss, it was actually battery loss, but yes that is taken care of. As for the CEL, it has not come back on since ripping the tbs apart and spraying it out. Only problem i am having is the transmission issues. I was told that replacing the filter for the tranny is a pain in the ass, but should be done as my fluid is rather dark. More than likely I will take it in to the shop to have that done. $98 dollars is what they are wanting. The kit itself is 50 or so, might as well pay and have it done.
 
BrApple said:
again the filter isn't servicable. don't let them charge you for a filter...
Click to expand...

Does Ford even have a "suggested" service interval for the filter? I haven't heard of one...

OP, drain and refill the fluid a few times. That will clear up your fluid quite well. I will dig up an older post of mine that details how much "new fluid" and how much "old fluid" will be in your tranny after each drain and refill.
 
Here you go OP...

Your ATX has a capacity that ranges from approximately 9.5 - 10.5 quarts. Ford made many small changes to the ATX over the years. The maximum drain volume is roughly 3.9 - 4 quarts, due to a large volume in the torque converter that cannot be drained.

I have a chart that I quick calculated based on a 3.9 quart drain/refill volume and a 10.3 quart maximum capacity ATX.

zorrex said:
You can drain the 3.9 quarts all at once. In between each drain + refill just take a quick lap around the block and it should be fine. Then just do it again.

So I ran some quick math...

Drain + Refill.......Old Fluid (qts)....New Fluid (qts)
1...........................6.4....................3.9
2............................4......................6.3
3...........................2.5.....................7.8
4..........................1.55...................8.75

The number of quarts indicates the number of quarts of fluid left of each AFTER that particular drain + refill is done.

*DISCLAIMER* This only applies to a 10.3qt capacity ATX. Values may change slightly for other capacities.
Click to expand...
 
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