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Oil Flow to Turbocharger

SoopaCooga said:
I feel the need to backup Joey here. Dunno if anyone remembers, but I had too had a problem with oil pushing past the compressor (and into the engine). My build thread has the gory details, but in summary:

NPG kit with PTE turbo
-4 AN inlet tapped at head; NPG restrictor used
-10 AN drain into pan

To this day, I still can't explain why the oil pushed past the compressor. Best I can figure is that the turbo was off-axis too much. The Garrett website has some excellent troubleshooting tips, including something I have never seen anywhere else:

The oil feed/drain must be less than 15 deg off-axis.

After reading this, I went out and measured mine, which turned out to be 25 deg off-axis the way the turbo was installed. :blackeye:
When I reinstall the kit this Spring, I'll make sure the feed/drain are within the proper range. I should also see about tapping the block for the drain in the location where Brapple and FastCougar did.

That said, Precision Turbo & Engine told me the same thing they told everyone else here: that non-ballbearing turbos do not need a restrictor. But whether or not to use a restrictor should depend on the specs of the turbo, right? Too little pressure and the turbo grinds to a halt! Too much pressure and the turbo seals fail. Unfortunately, PTE couldn't tell me the operating range for their turbos, so we are left with trial and error. :shrug:

For a definitive answer, someone should install a catch can in place of the turbo, with a pressure gauge on it, and then connecting the oil feed and drain.
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I think Joey has seen more turbos than anyone. The only reason I am changing the design is because my son's turbo looked like it had not seen enough oil at all when I took it apart.

I am not concerned that the compressor side will leak since it is pretty well sealed. The exhaust side concerns me and that is where Brett's leaked. It poured oil into the exhaust pipe.

If a -4 is too much I will let everyone know I was wrong and Joey was right. I do know that the catch can idea does remove any back pressure because there is no way the catch can will completely fill up. The existing drain I felt was not capable of draining fast enough and in test in the kitchen with water confirmed it. Any restriction in the old drain filled the hose quickly, where the catch can could hold at least 5 times more fluid. If your oil return is below the maximum oil level then you will have a restriction. The only non restrictive way to get oil out is to plumb it above the oil in the pan.
 
I would also like to see a photo as installed. I need to upgrade my oil drain to -10 for the complete drain. however my block is already tapped alittle smaller to that is going to have to stay that way ...
 
crewchiefpro said:
Went to my local speed shop and happened to find this competition fuel filter on the wall. This filter has -10 inlet and outlet ( which you need ). I got this info off Summit.com but I bought the filter at my local speed shop because the price was similar but I didn't have to pay shipping. Cost was 61.50 plus tax.

BrandProfessional ProductsManufacturer's Part Number10301Part TypeFuel FiltersProduct LineProfessional Products Competition Plus Fuel FiltersSummit Racing Part NumberPFS-10301 Fuel Filter StyleCanisterInlet QuantitySingleInlet Size1/2 in. NPTInlet AttachmentFemale threadsOutlet QuantitySingleOutlet Size1/2 in. NPTOutlet AttachmentFemale threadsFilter Element IncludedYesFilter Element MaterialPaperFilter Housing MaterialAluminumFilter Housing FinishPolishedOverall Length (in)4.250 in.Outside Diameter (in)2.750 in.Mounting Bracket IncludedYesFittings IncludedNoClamps IncludedNoSmallest Particle Filtered10 micronsQuantitySold individually.NotesFlows 130 gph @ 7 psig, or 330 gph @ 40 psig.

fuel_filter.jpg
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you say it has -10 inlet and outlet but the item you are showing has 1/2" NPT. the description on the link even says so. Also did you ever get this installed. I am about to install my return line and am trying to decide if i should go this route of just a -10 return.
 
Stylin55_oh said:
you say it has -10 inlet and outlet but the item you are showing has 1/2" NPT. the description on the link even says so. Also did you ever get this installed. I am about to install my return line and am trying to decide if i should go this route of just a -10 return.
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Yes he installed it. It works fine, it is -10 on both sides.
 
Yes, as my son said it is installed and working perfectly. The 1/2 inch to
-10 Earls fittings are used on it.

I have no camera that has a flash to take pictures right now, hope to remedy that soon.

I will post pictures when I can. Cell phone pics look terrible and don't show the detail everyone would need.

I plan on using copper drain tubes when I return from racing out west. I am worried that even protected rubber hose or braided steel covered hose will wear from the extreme heat of the exhaust sitting a few millimeters away. Joey had copper drains that snaked around the components so I will just use bigger versions of that.

Overall I think it came out very nice. There is zero chance that any pressure buildup can happen regardless of where the drain returns to the pan or block.

The part is fairly inexpensive, far less than having an aluminum catch can created at a shop. It is finned aluminum and helps cool the oil as it drains.
 
crewchiefpro said:
Yes, as my son said it is installed and working perfectly. The 1/2 inch to
-10 Earls fittings are used on it.

I have no camera that has a flash to take pictures right now, hope to remedy that soon.

I will post pictures when I can. Cell phone pics look terrible and don't show the detail everyone would need.

I plan on using copper drain tubes when I return from racing out west. I am worried that even protected rubber hose or braided steel covered hose will wear from the extreme heat of the exhaust sitting a few millimeters away. Joey had copper drains that snaked around the components so I will just use bigger versions of that.

Overall I think it came out very nice. There is zero chance that any pressure buildup can happen regardless of where the drain returns to the pan or block.

The part is fairly inexpensive, far less than having an aluminum catch can created at a shop. It is finned aluminum and helps cool the oil as it drains.
Click to expand...

So have you removed the restrictor with this final installation too?
 
CSVT#49 said:
So could you break down your setup and explain what your running (line sizes, deg elbows, fitting sizes) basically looking to copy your entire setup. Thanks.
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OIL INLET: -4 line into an 45 degree elbow compression fitting on the turbo.

Outlet: -10 compression fitting to a 45 degree female to female elbow -10.

Oil Cannister has -10 compression fitting inlet which moves the oil cannister right where it needs to drain unobstructed. The cannister drain has a -10 nipple right now with hose running to the pan with a series of 45 degree elbows to route the oil around objects. I get the elbows from a plumbing section of a hardware store. When I return from racing I will put copper pipping that can be bent anyway I want because the rubber hose is too close to the exhaust in my opinion.

If you have the motor out then I would suggest draining the oil to the front of the block as www.fordcontour.org site suggests.
 
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