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Frosty

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 26, 2003
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Sheboygan, WI
Ok, so last week, my timing belt went out on my 99 SE. I got the Gates timing belt kit and the cam sprocket holding tool. They charged me an arm and a leg for the tool (it is now mine to keep unless I return it unopened :rolleyes: ). My first question is, do I need this tool, since I have a non-interference motor?? If I do need to hold the cam gears, should I just find something in my garage to hold them instead?

Next, I did some searching on the old forums and in a few threads noticed that people recommended doing the water pump while i'm in there. I am assuming that this is because the one that is in there has a plastic impellar? I have owned my car since 24k and it now has 78k on it and I doubt the water pump was replaced. My question is, where the heck can I find one with a metal impellar?? Everywhere I checked they only have plastic ones. I haven't checked NAPA yet because I have never bought anything from them, and they aren't even located in my city. That is the only place I can think of, but does anybody have any other sources for me?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Kyle
Frosty
 
They used metal impellars in Mercury Cougars, look for those. I can't help you w/ the timing belt, sorry.
 
You do not need the cam sprocket holding tool. You need the cam alignment tool and crank pin which can be bought in a set for about $25. They are needed to set your timing. The cam alignment tool is a flat bar that you put in the back of your cams. The cams have slots in the back. Don't use this to try to hold cams because you can break the slots. There are flat places on the cams where you can hold them with a wrench. The crank pin screws in to make sure you are exactly at TDC. If you don't get the timing exactly right, you will get a code with the VCT. The kit has good instructions, follow them. The Haynes manuel has the instructions that deal with the Pre 98 Zetecs. Very confusing.
 
i call bs. for non vct at least

i just did mine two weeks ago. theres this really cool stuff called white out. what you do is before you take the belt off you mark each timing gear and the tooth it lands on on the belt (i know its getting replaced just pay attention) as well as a part of the engine such as the valve cover that your not gonna take off (dont need to take the valve cover off like this). then before you put the new belt on you mark it exactly the same as the old one. start with the crank gear then bring the belt up and put it on whichever cam hasnt moved (one will surely have moved slightly) now you should have the belt running over everything but the last cam gear. the valve springs are weak enough that you can turn it by hand (although takes some effort) and if you have someone helping you make him turn the cam in the proper directio to line up the white out marks and install the belt. if you dont have someone helping you pull out the right size torx bit and ratchet and turn it slightly and install the belt. dont let go of the ratchet just as you need to move the tensionor over and hold it there. once your putting tension on the belt you can drop the ratchet in the cam gear and grab the one for the tensionor bolt. tighten the bolt and then torque to spec. reinstall everything and start the engine.

keep in mind this was done on a pre98 non vct engine. these steps may not work due to the vct (i dont have one to play with)

definatly replace the water pump while you're in there. i dont know if the post 98 pumps are different (im assuming they are) but the pre 98 pumps are metal impellar pumps. try comparing it to the focus water pump. im sure youll have an easier time finding a metal impellar pump for them.
 
as I stated in the pre98 timing belt faq you don't need the cam holding tool ... the cams will move less then one tooth, just mark everything first ... also make sure the engine is at tdc before marking or taking anything apart just incase the crank is turned when teh timing belt is off ...


as for the waterpump, there have been very few pump failures on zetecs ... at 178k I still have my original one in the car, as far as I know, got it at 83k .... but its up to you, since you will be in there many choose to change it then since the extra work is just to change the pump out
 
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What a sec, are you guys saying pre-98 have metal impellars?! I'm not ready to replace it but if it has metal impellars than I don't have to worry about it just breaking(like plastic ones.) If my car makes it to 100k without problems, I'll replace the timing belt and WP at the same time.
 
KerryKool said:
What a sec, are you guys saying pre-98 have metal impellars?! I'm not ready to replace it but if it has metal impellars than I don't have to worry about it just breaking(like plastic ones.) If my car makes it to 100k without problems, I'll replace the timing belt and WP at the same time.
Click to expand...

I was hoping to get to 100K too. At 87K while driving the engine bay was suddendly covered with fine black rubber dust when the belt failed :eek:

Hope you make it there :cool:
 
BrApple said:
as I stated in the pre98 timing belt faq you don't need the cam holding tool ... the cams will move less then one tooth, just mark everything first ... also make sure the engine is at tdc before marking or taking anything apart just incase the crank is turned when teh timing belt is off ...
Click to expand...


how is the crank gonna turn? its not like you have the crank pulley and bolt on it nor are you going to be moving the car.

as for them moving less than one tooth... my intake cam moved about 2 teeth while i was doing mine. wasnt at TDC either though.
 
My 2000 had a metal impellar W/P. The replacement I bought (wasn't Ford) was metal also.

Like I said....you are in there already...do the W/P also. Piece of mind.
 
The cams should align (slots are in line with each other) when cylinder 1 is at TDC (it did on mine). It also lined up on the crank pulley to the mark on the engine. That is when you know you are good.:laugh:
 
Thanks for all the help!!:cool: This is what I love about these forums!!

Dec1000 said:
You do not need the cam sprocket holding tool. You need the cam alignment tool and crank pin which can be bought in a set for about $25. They are needed to set your timing.
Click to expand...
Anybody know where I can get these? Autozone had no such thing and neither did Advance. I hope I don't have to go to Ebay...I wanted finish this up on the weekend since I haven't had time this week. I need to get my SVT into storage.

The other question I have is: If i were to use the Mercury Cougar water pump...is it compatible? I would think so, but can someone confirm this? Again, Autozone, Advance, and the local parts store's warehouse all have plastic impellars so far. The local place is getting one more in for me tomorrow, so we'll see what that one has. Any help in the mean time would be appreciated.
 
striker2 said:
how is the crank gonna turn? its not like you have the crank pulley and bolt on it nor are you going to be moving the car.

as for them moving less than one tooth... my intake cam moved about 2 teeth while i was doing mine. wasnt at TDC either though.
Click to expand...


you never know what some people will do ... and do something like this and not setting the enigne to TDC is not smart ... I hold to my statement that at TDS the cams should not move ... just mark everything well and you should be set to go, but it you are concerned then make a cam holding tool and you will know that nothing will go wrong ...
 
Update: So I called advanced today and they ended up getting a metal impellar WP in, so that is taken care of. I will bring along the tool number for the camshaft holding tool and see what they can do for me. If I can't find it there, ANYBODY have any idea where I can get them. I need them so I can get the SE back together this weekend.

Thanks!
Kyle
 
Well, this project is really starting to get on my nerves. :help:
I found the camshaft holding tool, but not the crankshaft tool. Does anybody know what it is called or have an OTC part number? I found the OTC part number for the camshaft tool, it is OTC 6486. I found it in a thread on the old forums and it stated it was a "locking tool kit" so maybe it has the crankshaft tool in it?? I may just have to find out tomorrow when it comes in.

Well, the metal impellar wp i found at Advance wasn't metal. The girl I talked to on the phone said it "looked like metal" but when she opened it up when we got there, I just laughed because I knew it was plastic. So, my search continues. I guess I will just check Murphy's website and see what they have since NOBODY in my area seems to have this simple thing. I can't believe everything I have found is plastic!! Cheap crap!!!:nonono:
 
With the VCT solenoid, if the timing is not perfect, you will get a code light with a code of PO1380 or PO1381 or PO1383. Better to do it the right way.
 
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