• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

My LX is getting a new heart - 3.0L swap

Ok peeps, so I need to replace (atleast) the AC line that loops up near the compressor. It's very visible from near the radiator overflow tank. I guess the Arizona heat killed the line, and us moving the compressor for the 3L swap put it over the edge.

My questions for you:
1. What is that line called? Suction/discharge or liquid line?
2. Cost/benifit ratio to replace both lines?
3. Should I pay my mechanic to just to it as I will need to evacuate the new lines?
 
Chas said:
Ok peeps, so I need to replace (atleast) the AC line that loops up near the compressor. It's very visible from near the radiator overflow tank. I guess the Arizona heat killed the line, and us moving the compressor for the 3L swap put it over the edge.

My questions for you:
1. What is that line called? Suction/discharge or liquid line?
2. Cost/benifit ratio to replace both lines?
3. Should I pay my mechanic to just to it as I will need to evacuate the new lines?
Click to expand...

1) I think its called the A/C manifold line.
2) Since one of them went out. It wont hurt to replace the other just in case it's on its way out also.( I didnt even know there were two lines)
3) Not necessarily. Replace the line, and the labor costs will go down. Then take it to a shop to evac & recharge.
 
OK, so I finally got my mechanic to drive the car to his work to smoke test it (he's in demand, so I have to be patient sometimes - one of 2 guys in the Western US with his skills) and he found the reason for the bad idle.....leak in the custom lower intake manifold from Joey :cry:

I'll call him Monday and see if he's had similar problems. If not, I guess I'm going use copious amounts of RTV on the gaskets/orings that seal the assembly together. Sucks it took this long to find the problem, and had to pay to find it. Hopefully Joey has some answers/solutions.

On a more positive note, the AC is fixed and charged. I had to replace the line that comes off the compressor, which was a pain to remove, but went in fairly easy. As it turned out, I forgot I had bought a HNBR oring kit from Harbor Freight, which we needed. The new line didn't come with new orings that seal the line to the compressor, and I just happened to have some in the kit :eek:
 
Sounds like lots of good news! Well... the leaky LIM is good news as you know the issue. Where's it leaking from on the LIM?
 
morbid said:
Sounds like lots of good news! Well... the leaky LIM is good news as you know the issue. Where's it leaking from on the LIM?
Click to expand...

Looks like between the milled plastic and CNC'd aluminum piece. Maybe a little from under the plastic LIM where it meets the heads. No answer at NPG today, i'll try Joey again tomorrow.
 
Still no answer from Joey. I've sent an email and called 3 times last week, but no one answers. I'm just going to disassemble the intake adapter and use some Ultra Blue Permatex on all mating surfaces.
 
Chas said:
Still no answer from Joey. I've sent an email and called 3 times last week, but no one answers. I'm just going to disassemble the intake adapter and use some Ultra Blue Permatex on all mating surfaces.
Click to expand...

That will work chas. I dunno y joey hasnt answered yet. He def needs a personal assistant. I'll reccommend that to him.
 
Update:

The leak was coming from the o-rings Joey used on the mating surface between the aluminum piece he machines and the stock 3L lower intake. 3 of the 6 had fallen out of place, and were cut/pinched, causing the leak. After some searching, I found some Quad (looks more "X") rings at ACE Hardware that were just slightly larger than the ones Joey supplied. With patience I was able to "tuck" the new quad ring into the machined groove. I used a little Permatex Ultra blue in the groove, however, that was probably not necessary.

After this fix, all is well with the engine, and it runs well, and now revs up fast without stutter. I suggested this upgrade t Joey, so hopefully no one else will have this issue in the future.

I do have a code P0401 - low EGR flow, which I wasn't expecting, as I did the EGR delete. Come to find out, that the DPFE sensor (EGR flow detector) CANNOT be deleted from the tune. Joey and I talked about producing a modified tube for the EGR bung that would have 2 different size tubes, allowing for a differential in flow between in/out on the DPFE.
 
Update 2:

My SCT Xcal3 was having an issue data-logging. It would freeze after 5-10 seconds of logging, or just sometimes freeze before we could even hit the start button. SCT tech support was somewhat rude and had a sense of indifference to my problem, however after 3 trouble shooting calls over the course of 2 months, they finally approved an RMA. I got the tuner back yesterday with note saying the had replaced the main circuit board, and reflashed the software......SUCCESS! I was able to do the Idle and Load loggings Joey requires without a singe hangup! So the logs have been emailed to Joey, and now I can get my final tune done :)
 
ive never had a problem with getting the entire EGR system tuned out, including 2 tunes from Joey. :shrug:
 
striker2 said:
ive never had a problem with getting the entire EGR system tuned out, including 2 tunes from Joey. :shrug:
Click to expand...

MidOH3LCougar said:
Bought my 3L Cougar with the EGR already deleted and i have no codes so it can be tuned out.
Click to expand...

I'll ask Joey again, but he said that the DPFE couldn't be removed? No sure whats different with mine. Do you both still have the DPFE in the car, and is it hooked up to it's plug?
 
Great, thanks guys! I'll check in with Joey on Monday to let him know that I'm just going to remove the DPFE, and see what he can do with the tune.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top