MTX75 Removal "Punch List"

[KAOS_3.0]

ok, I did one of these for 3L swaps back when I put my second 3L in and I figured I'd post the one I wrote for pulling the MTX here too if for no reason other than it will make it easy for me to find for myself in the future. let me know if any of you find this helpful.

here we go:

1- remove battery and tray
2- remove intake assembly
3- remove fuel lines as needed (mostly an issue with NPG fuel block)
4- remove coolant lines from cross over pipe
5- remove shift tower wire harness, VSS connector, grounds to trans, AC canister connector, ect
6- remove starter
7- remove shift linkage + bracket
8- remove y-pipe
9- drain MTX
10- unbolt jack shaft bearing from bracket
11- tear down suspension and remove axles
12- remove driver side strut/knuckle assembly
13- remove roll resistors
14- take steering rack loose (this is a PITA because of the heat shield on top of it)
15- support radiator and unbolt AC cannister
16- subframe bolts (loosen passenger side, remove driver side)
17- secure engine (either on lift, support bar, or with jack under oil pan)
18- remove bell housing bolts
19- take MTX loose from upper mount
20- remove MTX (have a friend support it while you pry it from the engine)

if I missed anything, let me know. I tried to amend my starting list as I ran into things with the teardown. I did this without a manual, based on things I've heard here and on my own experiences with pulling the engines and the first trans swap (which was made way harder by a Haynes manual).

I think I've got the best order to do everything in. took me about 12hrs tear down and 10 going back, mostly alone with hand tools (well I used an impact on the strut nut and the flywheel).

I still don't see how some guys claim to do this in 45 minutes, even with a shop and a pit crew...

 

[KyleQ]

I've never removed the fuel lines, coolant lines or y-pipe on any of the transmission swaps I've done. The starter stays in as well - never touched the steering rack either, just disconnect the steering from inside the car. The last transmission install I did I pulled both front subframe bolts and the driver's side out - left a few threads in the passenger side. This gave me a ton of room to work with - made pulling and installing the transmission much easier. I've had the motor out of my car twice and the transmission out twice as well - one of the subframe nuts finally broke on the driver's side. I've done a few through the floorboards - but this time I just fired up the plasma cutter, made a factor hole a little bigger and mig welded the ••••• out of that nut. The heat broke the bolt free and I'll never worry about it again.

I did a clutch two weeks ago - taking the car apart took more work then it has ever taken before, but I had the transmission installed and the car together in around 7hrs. I'd say the final thing to do is to re-torque your CV nuts after a little driving - pop the center caps out before you put the wheels on. Torque those nuts to 250ft/lbs.

 

[blu_fuz]

The axle nuts are 210ft/lbs - also, it should take only about 8 hours start to finish for a motor/trans pull and install. That's with no breaks, so figure 10-11 hrs with breaks and having to run and get parts.

 

[rexxdoggy]

Man, as much as I want to do the clutch and tranny swap myself, the more I think about a whole day working, and what I gotta do, makes me just want to take it to a shop. But labor rapes. Suck. I'm probably just scarin myself out of it.

 

[blu_fuz]

You just have to dive into it. That's the only way. I had to talk myself into doing mine for 4 months, I wanted to back out every step of the way but it's the only way to survive. I couldn't pay a shop to do it and I only had enough money for the parts. I did have the space, basic tools, and time to work on it whenever I wanted though.....

 

[KAOS_3.0]

I've never removed the fuel lines, coolant lines or y-pipe on any of the transmission swaps I've done. The starter stays in as well - never touched the steering rack either, just disconnect the steering from inside the car. The last transmission install I did I pulled both front subframe bolts and the driver's side out - left a few threads in the passenger side. This gave me a ton of room to work with - made pulling and installing the transmission much easier. I've had the motor out of my car twice and the transmission out twice as well - one of the subframe nuts finally broke on the driver's side. I've done a few through the floorboards - but this time I just fired up the plasma cutter, made a factor hole a little bigger and mig welded the ••••• out of that nut. The heat broke the bolt free and I'll never worry about it again.

I did a clutch two weeks ago - taking the car apart took more work then it has ever taken before, but I had the transmission installed and the car together in around 7hrs. I'd say the final thing to do is to re-torque your CV nuts after a little driving - pop the center caps out before you put the wheels on. Torque those nuts to 250ft/lbs.

the first time I did it I pulled the steering shaft loose and dropped the subframe completely. let me tell you, getting that steering shaft back through the fire wall is a massive PITA. it tore up the sound deadened and just the act of muscling the subframe around was massive. maybe you guys are all built like the rock or something, but I only weigh 160lbs or so and I prefer to make life easier. removing the bolts from the heat shield that goes over the steering rack is a PITA too, but a different kind of PITA, and also, it's just a heat shield, so when I put it back, I left a few of them out. the actual bolts that hold the rack down itself, are gravy to get to from the wheel wells. I actually got the VSS connector bolted down under the rack and had to take it back loose, and it was way easy.

I also have a loose subframe nut, on the passenger side. I didnt even spin it with an impact, it came loose trying to lift the subframe back into place when I followed the haynes manual instructions several years ago. I havn't welded it because I dont want to play mister sparky in my interior, its too easy to take the kick panel loose and shove a wrench on it.

as for the starter, I just took it off to make life easier with sliding the trans out. it's not too hard to take off, and it makes getting to two of the bell housing bolts much easier, as well as giving you more clearance to get the trans below the inside of the fender.

also, I only have to puu my fuel lines because I have a full 3.0 with the NPG fuel adapter, and I have it hidden under the intake, all around the coolant lines and stuff. thats why I noted that that is why I did that. if you have a stock SVT or a ported 3l, you wouldnt have to do that...

The axle nuts are 210ft/lbs - also, it should take only about 8 hours start to finish for a motor/trans pull and install. That's with no breaks, so figure 10-11 hrs with breaks and having to run and get parts.

who doesn't take breaks? we're not making tacos here....

You just have to dive into it. That's the only way. I had to talk myself into doing mine for 4 months, I wanted to back out every step of the way but it's the only way to survive. I couldn't pay a shop to do it and I only had enough money for the parts. I did have the space, basic tools, and time to work on it whenever I wanted though.....

thats pretty much my situation any time the car needs anything. in the dirt with hand tools....

 

[KyleQ]

Just different ways to do it - I've always disconnected the steering and left the passenger side front bolt in. As for the wrench - my floor has never been taken apart, so I'd rather not tear up my carpet, sound deadening, scrap off the spray in deadening, cut the hole in my floor and put a wrench on it. I've got fabrication tools - I've done it both ways now, and I'll tell you I'll only ever do it one way from now on

I've got a full 3L - custom fuel rail, cleaner and a bit more simple then what you have.

There is no single part of this job that is hard to do - nothing. If you look at this job piece by piece it is very simple - everything from supporting the radiator to removing cv shafts to installing a new fly wheel. Take your time and section the work out - I only need help getting the transmission back on the motor, everything else is a solo job.

 

[BrApple]

usea jack to lift and get the subframe into place. jack at the rear roll restrictor mount and use a jack stand to hold the front up. very easy to get the subframe in and out this way ....

 

[KAOS_3.0]

Just different ways to do it - I've always disconnected the steering and left the passenger side front bolt in. As for the wrench - my floor has never been taken apart, so I'd rather not tear up my carpet, sound deadening, scrap off the spray in deadening, cut the hole in my floor and put a wrench on it. I've got fabrication tools - I've done it both ways now, and I'll tell you I'll only ever do it one way from now on

I've got a full 3L - custom fuel rail, cleaner and a bit more simple then what you have.

There is no single part of this job that is hard to do - nothing. If you look at this job piece by piece it is very simple - everything from supporting the radiator to removing cv shafts to installing a new fly wheel. Take your time and section the work out - I only need help getting the transmission back on the motor, everything else is a solo job.

yeah, thats exactly what my little punch lists are for, sectioning up the work. every step involved is pretty simple when you separate them out. then you just start at one end of the list and work your way through it. I also only needed help getting the trans in and out. I wanted someone to support the trans while I pried it off so it wouldnt pop off and possibly bend the input shaft. obviously it requires help to get it back in.

usea jack to lift and get the subframe into place. jack at the rear roll restrictor mount and use a jack stand to hold the front up. very easy to get the subframe in and out this way ....

yeah, I tried that last time, it kept falling off while I was trying to fight the steering shaft into the hole in the fire wall. I eventually used ratchet straps through the front tie downs and around the radiator mounts to hold it up in the front, then me and one other guy muscled the back around till it was close enough to get the bolts in. there's no need to take more than just the driver side two bolts out of it. with the strut and knuckle out of the way and the starter off, it was a piece of cake. had somebody not had a hand on the trans, it would have fallen right out of the car when I pried it off the boss's...