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Moog 2 bolt control arm bolt

knucklehead97

New CEG'er
Joined
Nov 14, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Attalla Alabama
Howdy fellas. I bought a Moog front end kit which came with control arms and inner and outer tie rods. Main thing I've been worried about was the DS control arm bolts because as ya'll should know, the bolts are right under the transmission housing and have to be cut if you don't want to drop the subframe. I was searching for new bolts until the Moog kit showed up today... each control arm came with 1 10.9 grade bolt which is 2 and a quarter inch long. Are these new control arm bolts or what?
8ymw235.jpg


The only thing that worries me is they aren't much longer than the bushings

pRtOb2A.jpg


What do ya'll think? I'd prefer to not have to pay the price for new bolts as I have heard they're pricey...

Thanks!
 
The bolts Moog supplied are for the knuckle pinch at the ball joint stud, Ford considers the knuckle pinch bolts to be one time use, so you should replace them.

If memory serves (and I just verified this going upstairs to the garage and measuring an in-place bolt on my 99 CSVT...), the bolts for the inboard A-arm bushings are 80mm, so about 3&1/8" from under the head to the bolt end, and those bolts and nuts can be re-used.
 
The bolts Moog supplied are for the knuckle pinch at the ball joint stud, Ford considers the knuckle pinch bolts to be one time use, so you should replace them.

If memory serves (and I just verified this going upstairs to the garage and measuring an in-place bolt on my 99 CSVT...), the bolts for the inboard A-arm bushings are 80mm, so about 3&1/8" from under the head to the bolt end, and those bolts and nuts can be re-used.

Is there a place online that I can get a control arm bolt? I knoe they're reusable, but I was going to cut the one under the transmission so that I could change the arm without dropping the subframe or jacking up the engine and transmission. I may just have to go to the junkyard and get one, unless someone on here has an extra they would sell me haha
 
I would just match it up with an equivalent grade 5 bolt from the hardware store.
 
The OP lives in/near Atlanta, yes? Big city, there must be a goodly number of fastener suppliers there (Fastenal anyone?). These are mission critical suspension bolts, please get a class 10.9, 80mm bolt, preferably made in the USA, or suck it up and buy them from Ford. The counterman at a reputable bolt store will be able to tell you the origin of the bolt. Then buy or borrow a proper torque wrench, lubricate the threads and set them to the proper torque.

If you're insistent about purchasing online, here, box of 10 for 12 Bucks plus the freight. Replace all your bolts and give some to your friends.

These un-threaded shank bolts are really optimal for this application, as a fully threaded bolt is not only unnecessary, but is also not as strong in shear and an un-threaded shank bolt.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98093a777/=17p0hel
 
The OP lives in/near Atlanta, yes? Big city, there must be a goodly number of fastener suppliers there (Fastenal anyone?). These are mission critical suspension bolts, please get a class 10.9, 80mm bolt, preferably made in the USA, or suck it up and buy them from Ford. The counterman at a reputable bolt store will be able to tell you the origin of the bolt. Then buy or borrow a proper torque wrench, lubricate the threads and set them to the proper torque.

If you're insistent about purchasing online, here, box of 10 for 12 Bucks plus the freight. Replace all your bolts and give some to your friends.

These un-threaded shank bolts are really optimal for this application, as a fully threaded bolt is not only unnecessary, but is also not as strong in shear and an un-threaded shank bolt.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98093a777/=17p0hel

I'm actually from Attalla Alabama. But thank you for the link, if I can't find them at Fastenal then I will go that route. Sadly just figured out that my RMS is pouring oil like crazy. Hate that I just spent 900$ on suspension parts and a timing belt replacement just to find out it'll take 650 for a shop to change the RMS. Should of just bought another car, probably. But on to the next broken part haha. Definitely will use 10.9. 5 isn't near enough. And I have a torque wrench thankfully. Thank you for the help!
 
gmorrell's advice is better than mine! I never thought you could walk in and get a single bolt from Fastenal. I'm going to try that next time I round off a bolt with my bare (bear?) hands...
 
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