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Loose Feeling Steering Turns Out To Be Expensive

E

easygoing

New CEG'er
Joined
Oct 24, 2005
Messages
18
Location
Malden, MA
Just today I heard from my mechanic that I need to change my steering wheel on my 95 Contour 3.0L GL, something sounds like "power steering line(?)". Anyway, the cost will be around $400.
About one month ago, I suddenly feel that my steering wheel no longer had the legend "sure and tight" feel. It became much easier to turn the wheel, and the deal zone seems to be 1/8 th of a turn. Even though I could drive the car, I no longer feel confident about the driving. Well, I expected a loose boot, or at most a worn-out joint at somewhere. Instead I got this big repair.
Add the water pump breaking the second time, the total cost is around $700. Is the steering wheel repair reasonable compare to the "minor" loose feeling I got?
To be fair, I regard my Contour 95 fairly reliable at 75K miles. At 12 years old, it lasts longer than many Toyota Camry's owned by my friends and neighbors, many Toyota's also have low mileage but need expensive repair.
 
A 2nd opinion never hurts. 2 years ago Belle Tire told me I needed a new steering rack to the tune of $850. 20k miles later its still tight and drives great.
 
Thanks lightngsvt!
I will definitely grow a habit of getting second opinion. Only at this time of year, with 10 degree temperature and chilling wind in Boston area, I had to drop my car at garage and walk to the subway station. Picking up the car is the same ordeal.
Well, can any manufacturer produce a car that does not need maintenance and repair in Winter, or whenever temperature drops below freezing point?
 
I had a similar problem with mine, wasn't the power steering though, the rack and pignon mechanism was somewhat damaged if i remember correctly. (In anycase it presumably resulted from the previous owner curbing it resonably badly)

i don't think a lack of power steering pressure would cause the steering to be loose like that (would just make it harder to steer, not loose i don't think.)
 
easygoing said:
....
About one month ago, I suddenly feel that my steering wheel no longer had the legend "sure and tight" feel. It became much easier to turn the wheel, and the deal zone seems to be 1/8 th of a turn. Even though I could drive the car, I no longer feel confident about the driving. Well, I expected a loose boot, or at most a worn-out joint at somewhere. .
Click to expand...


There is a chance that one of the bolts on the steering column came out or your tie rods are really worn out. Starjammir had a loose steering wheel due to a missing bolt on the steering column.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=susp&Number=1290748&Forum=susp&Words=steering&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=1289888&Search=true#Post1290748

Do the o'clock test for the tie rod.

Edit. O'clock test

Jack up the car one side. Place on jack stand.

Grasp wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and push in and out. Any movement, most probably suspect wheel bearing.

9 and 3 o'clock - tie-rod/ball joint.

Lower the car and do the same for the other side.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Tony2005.
I read that message, and a loose bolt was what I had in mind before I sent my car to the garage. I was shocked to learn that something big needs to be replaced.
Another thing raised alarm is that the mechanic told me that water pump need to be replace too. I replaced the water pump in November 2005 in that same garage. I am not sure that water pump will break so easily. Second, I can clearly see that the coolant level is low, and the coolant warning light (yellow) is on. After I add the coolant above the max line, the coolant light is off. However, after two days, the coolant dropped below max line again, and the coolant light is on again. I saw coolant around the metal/rubber joint right above the radiator, so I guessed that the coolant leaked from that joint. Also, the engine temperature has always been normal. That is why I do not believe the water pump could be a problem.
I will test my steering using the o'clock method, probably on this Saturday.
By the way, is there any good web site rating auto garages? Steering is too critical a part for me to tinker on myself, even if I can identify the possible cause. A good honest garage is still a necessity in life.
Now, how come our founding fathers forgot to write this need into the constitution, after pursuit of happiness?
 
CatFish, thanks for pointing out the possibility of damaged rack and pinion. Boston road is notoriously potty. I will not be surprised if my rack and pinion is worn out. Does anybody know how to test that?
I will look around to find repair manual for Contour, just to see if I can check and fix those minor problems such as loose bolt.
 
Any danger with these loose steering?
I was horrified that I have driven my Contour under these kind of loose steering for over a month. Once in a while for a hour, the steering turned back to normal. But mostly it felt loose, perfectly "steerable."
Considering that steering is such a critical part of a car, and we do not heard many people lost control of their car due to these common and inevitable worn-out steering wheels, I suspect that steering system was built with some safety margin. The loose steering may not behave like broken water pump that will cause imminent damage to the car or others.
Any expert insight into this?
 
Some things to consider on your steering. When was the last time you had the power steering fluid changed? Never, 30k, etc..... Whenever it was or wasn't check the condition of the P/S fluid, it should be nice and red like auto trans fluid. (its the same stuff) Steering racks can develop internal problems with blocked passages, leaking seals etc. because the fluid is not filtered and it collects debris from the steering system just like engine oil.

Given the age of the car even with low mileage, I would say it is likely that you have some leaking P/S hoses, possibly even a leaking rack and pinion. Given your description of the problem if I were looking at it in my shop, I would check the fluid first, if it was in poor condition I would flush the P/S system as a start because even if it needs a steering rack the system needs clean fluid. If flushing the system dosen't fix it the next thing would be the rack and pinion assembly and P/S hoses.

And there is no fail safe in the P/S system. The steering rack can lock up, it can become very hard to steer in one direction and extremely easy in the other.
 
easygoing said:
....Another thing raised alarm is that the mechanic told me that water pump need to be replace too. I replaced the water pump in November 2005 in that same garage. I am not sure that water pump will break so easily. Second, I can clearly see that the coolant level is low, and the coolant warning light (yellow) is on. After I add the coolant above the max line, the coolant light is off. However, after two days, the coolant dropped below max line again, and the coolant light is on again. I saw coolant around the metal/rubber joint right above the radiator, so I guessed that the coolant leaked from that joint. ....?
Click to expand...

While it could be (however, unlikely) that it is a WP issue, I would tighten/fix the metal/rubber joint first and see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, you wasted 5 minutes of your time. If it does, you saved yourself a few hundred dollars.

One other thing. The coolant needs to be 0.5 inch about the max line at all times (as sometimes sensor is very finicky).

Actually, one more, engine oil needs to be 0.5 quart above max line (to alleviate the long sweeping right turns issue toasted engine issue).
 
Thanks for all the experts' suggestions.
I talked to my mechanic again, this time away from my cube so I could talk in detail. It turns out that the power steering lines (hoses) are all worn out, exactly the same as SVTGT350 predicted. The water pump leaked again, after it was replaced in November, 2005. Tony2005 also mentioned this possibility. The one-year warranty on that water pump just expired. The parts are about $400, and the labor is $300. I guess this is a very reasonable price, and my 95 Contour is holding up quite nicely.
This experience add another note to my long-term observation, an old car usually needs expensive repair after a long-distance trip. Local driving up to the same amount of mileage in a couple of months' time does not seems to affect an old car that much. This Christmas I drove from Boston to Washington D.C., a round trip of 1,000 miles. I thought of renting a car for that long trip, but finally decided to exploit the value in my old car. Well, if all the trip cost is this $700 repair, the trade-off is well worth it.
 
Unexpected: Power Steering Assembly Price Increased to $400

Unexpected: Power Steering Assembly Price Increased to $400

After I dropped my car to the garage today to fix water pump and "power steering lines," I was told by mechanic that the price for power steering assembly increased from $275 to $395. That is a little bit too steep.
Just yesterday, I checked the power steering fluid reservoir, the fluid level is normal. I also checked the coolant level. It is half inch below the max line, and did not decrease further for two weeks. It seems that the coolant leaked out as soon as I add coolant half inch above the max line, but it stopped leaking after reaching half inch below the max line. The engine temperature is normal all the time. However, the coolant yellow light is on most of the time.
I am not an expert in car repairing, far from that. I only tried to maintain my simple Toyota Tercel a decade ago. Tercel is spacious and every part is easy to reach. But even I became doubtful about this repair. I was told to change water pump and "power steering line," yet coolant stopped leaking mysteriously and power steering fluid is still full. Also, my problem is the steering is a bit too loose for my comfort, compared to the legendary "tight and sure" steering of Contour. All these really go against my limited common sense.
Anybody has any suggestions or comments?
Thanks in advance!
 
Make sure the 'pinch bolt' that hooks your steering column to the steering rack is tight. A year ago after I replaced my clutch, my steering wheel suddenly had a large, on-center dead zone. It steered just fine, but that increased dead zone wasn't right. I double-checked that pinch bolt and sure enough, is wasn't tight. The 'cage' that compresses down on the steering rack connection is 'keyed,' so when I had originally tightened it, it must have been off by a few degrees. After a bit of driving, it slipped a bit and created the extra dead zone. Once I tightened it the second time, it hasn't loosened up at all.

It's worth checking in to. Jack up the driver's side of the car, support it with a couple of jackstands, then look up at the firewall area. You can have your driver's door open and jiggle the steering wheel back and forth -- if you see any 'slop' in the cage/rack location, then retighten that bolt! IIRC, it takes a hex star driver to tighten.

Perhaps this will help!
 
Loose Pinch Bolt and Resulted Large Dead Zone Are More Like My Problem

Loose Pinch Bolt and Resulted Large Dead Zone Are More Like My Problem

Thanks you all for all these wonderful tips.
Larger dead zone is exactly what I have, plus a little bit looser than before, even though my wife does not feel any difference in steering.
I will try to check and tighten all these bolts to see if I can fix this problem.
Thanks!

PS:
Just talked to my colleagues. It seems that most of them go to a garage nearby. The mechanic there is an artist, or has been. Well, I wish every art student can grow to his/her own personal concert at Carnegie Hall or Lincoln center. But I have too many neighboring artists waiting tables. Auto mechanic is definitely a better alternative career than waiting tables. The only down side I can see if that so many of my co-workers and other people use him that he may not have much time for his art work.
 
I've had a similiar experience with 3 different 'Tours. On each 1 the problem was the steering coupler. I've also examined at least 3 or 4 more in the local wreckers and they all exhibited the exact same problem.

The steering coupler is a rubber sandwich with the rubber riveted between 2 metal plates. Inevitably, the rivets either come loose or the rubber starts to degrade and the holes enlarge. What you end up with is plenty of slop in the steering. The coupler isn't cheap and you must access it through the driver side wheel well with the steering wheel turned so you can access the Torx bolt head. They're usually pretty rusty, so get the WD40/Liquid Wrench on it first.
 
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