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kerosine engine flush ???????????????????

robertseber

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has anyone ever heard of this does it work kinda makes sense somebody let me know i seen it over on probetalk

Kerosene engine flush...Step by step...

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (starting with a NEW oil filter is recomended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents.
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. You can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out untill it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favorite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...:razz
12. Run engine until its at operating tempature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

This does a great job...

The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be disolved...

Note:

those who use Quaker State oil may experiance chunks and or sludge when draining the system through out the procedure...This is typical of Quaker State oils...
 

Tony2005

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Kerosene which is a form of jet fuel is very close to diesel which is very close to No. 2 Heating Oil in its constituent. It is therefore a solvent and can help clean the crud out. Seafoam actually functions like a solvent and we use Seaform to clean the engine every now and then. Of course, Seafoam has "cleaners" and other stuff in it and we just add to the engine oil.

I would be hesistant to leave only (or more percentage of) "any kind of volatile" organics in the engine. This is an explosion or fire waiting to happen.
 

tigerbalm

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I've used a similar method on an old diesle engine with about 200,000 miles. I never started the engine though. it was an inline 6 cylinder so i removed the head cover and pour kerosene over the cam and let it drain down the system and out the plug. Flushed the kerosene with some new oil and i was done. engine still runs great and that was bout 100,000 miles ago. I'm not saying it will work well with this engine but it has worked with my turbo diesle.
 
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PhoenixSVT

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In higher milage enegines(>80k), I added one quart of ATF to the oil, two days or 100 miles before the oil change. The cleaning properties of ATF are fantastic and you'll notice your filter gets really heavy really quick. Though most oils have detergent in them, the addition of ATF is a safer cleaning solution then having your motor flushed by the "professionals".:nonono: You also don't have to worry about large deposits getting stuck in a oil pasage and strangling your oil pressure.
 

Ex-Mean'Tour

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Jan 26, 2005
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Massachusetts
Have you ever seen this product? I've used it. You add it to the oil before changing it, idle the engine for 5 minutes then drain and replace the oil.

LG_MF3.jpg


I checked the MSDS information for it. It is made up of:

Alkyl Aryl Sulfonate (0 - 3%)
Naphthenic Petroleum Distillate (8 - 12 %)
Petroleum Distillate, Apliphatic (88-92%)

I'm not a chemist or anything, but figured someone could translate that.

Using kerosene in a very limited carefully supervised and well flushed out way makes sense to me. It seems like it would break down all the crud in there . . .
 

TourDeForce

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Kerosene which is a form of jet fuel is very close to diesel which is very close to No. 2 Heating Oil in its constituent. It is therefore a solvent and can help clean the crud out. Seafoam actually functions like a solvent and we use Seaform to clean the engine every now and then. Of course, Seafoam has "cleaners" and other stuff in it and we just add to the engine oil.

I would be hesistant to leave only (or more percentage of) "any kind of volatile" organics in the engine. This is an explosion or fire waiting to happen.

From the Ford truck forums: "Seafoam, per their MSDS, is generally 80% non-detergent oil and 20% alcohol. I wouldn't suggest it being used in your lawnmower let alone your engine. If you have a modern fuel injected engine, you probably don't have a carbon problem as lean burn technology limits that.If you are looking for an injection system cleaner, use Techron- there is nothing better and you can ask Ford about why they and all other auto manufacturers recommend it. "

Techron is has trimethylbenzene (7.5%) & xylene (~3%), and some additional combination of VOC's.

Berryman's B-12 has a HUGE percentage of Tolulene (~65%), acetone (~25%), and Hexanes (~10%), with a few other goodies thrown in. Very effective solvent - especially if combined with some methanol from Home Depot or sup'm. But man, you gotta be careful with this stuff!!

http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/BPI MSDS/0216.pdf for the Berryman MSDS short form.

Seafoam is a good product as methanol is an excellent solvent, but you get more bang for the buck with Berryman's IMHO.
 

Tony2005

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... Seafoam, ....Techron ....Berryman's
...Seafoam is a good product as methanol is an excellent solvent, but you get more bang for the buck with Berryman's IMHO.

Thanks for the link and suggestions. I used Seafoam once in the engine and a few times of Seafoam, Techcron and B12 in the fuel tank.
 

Matt R

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I used kerosene to clean the inside of a lawnmower engine back in high school. It did do a very good job of getting the junk out. But I had the head off and everything. I wouldn't try it just on a regular engine.
 

captainoblivious

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In higher milage enegines(>80k), I added one quart of ATF to the oil, two days or 100 miles before the oil change. The cleaning properties of ATF are fantastic and you'll notice your filter gets really heavy really quick.
MMO works similarly also.

Just watch out on high mileage engines as good cleaning can lead to crud removal which was blocking a leak. ( <-- should be taken care of though, but thats an added expense).
 

teamSVTour

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FWIW back in the day when I worked at a Valvoline I used to up-sell engine flushes to customers like it was liquid crack. It was Valvoline brand. It smelled almost identical to kerosene. In fact I can see Valvoline bottling up kerosene, slap a sticker on it and call it "engine flush".
 

Big Jim

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I would not do it

I would not do it

There is a lot of danger to what you suggest. The lubracation quality of kerosine is just not good enough to properly protect the bearings. Nore will they provide any protection to the rings/cylinder walls. You are at high risk of doing some severe damage. The damage may not show up right away.

I'm really not much in favor of any of those flushing porducts others have posted about, but they are much safer since you still keep mostly oil in the system.

I know that the Bilstein flushing system works well, and it is performed on a non running engine. It usually runs about $100 to $150. It is also often way oversold on cars that don't begin to need it.

Over at bobistheoilguy they keep talking about a product call "Auto RX" that cleans very well, but gently over the course of 1,000 miles or so. It doesn't work will with synthetic oil so the treatment is performed using conventional oil. The claim is that it will even clean up gummed up rings packs. I have not tried it, but it is well spoken of even by the oil chemists that post there.

As for me, I just never allow an engine to get gunked up. Changing the oil at proper intervals does wonders for keeping an engine clean.
 

Harrry

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ha when i was assit manager at a Valvoline instant oil change store. I sold engine flushs like crazy. The stuff did smell like kerosine. The funny thing is it worked great!

The point i am making i remember a few customers that would come in. ask us to drain the oil. Then leave the engine running for 2-3mins with the oil drained!!! I always let them do this to there cars. Of course i had them sign a sheet permiting us to do so.

Anywyas nothing ever happend and guess what?? These guys had over 200k miles on these engines. Of course they were old timers. 2 of the cars 's had been Coming to that location since they bought new in the 1980's.

So the idea of having no oil in the engine and running kerosine and casuing it to dmg the engine is almost impossible after what i witnessed working there for 4 years.

People use to come in having 1 quart of oil. I was amazed.
I could tell stories all night.

1 guy came in 25k miles lease vehicle never changed oil once. Had 1.5 quarts in an expedition. we removed the oil filter and nothing came out. So these are examples of many engines i have seen. These people made me beleive different of all the old made up stories of "a engine couldn't run 10 seconds without oil"
 

Tony2005

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The point i am making i remember a few customers that would come in. ask us to drain the oil. Then leave the engine running for 2-3mins with the oil drained!!! ...... Of course they were old timers. 2 of the cars 's had been Coming to that location since they bought new in the 1980's.

So the idea of having no oil in the engine and running kerosine and casuing it to dmg the engine is almost impossible after what i witnessed working there for 4 years.
"

This is a very dangerous statement and I completely disagree. Back in the "old days", engines did not have as high compression and tight tolerances of newer engines (especially if it were a V8). Try that with our high compression and tight tolerance engines (and with regular mineral oil) and you are asking for trouble. Yes, I have seen those commercials by Quaker State where after leaving the oil out, they run the engine for quite some time with no oil and it "seems" fine.

With our Duratecs, just having a few seconds without oil and the bearings are toast. We have had many posts on this. And this does not have to do with whether you agree to put half quart above the max line or not.
 
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TaurusKev

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I work at AutoZone, and I have seen person have no oil show on their dipstick, I wanna say the car had 1 qt in it, we put 3 quarts in to make it show full on the dipstick. This was a GM 3100 Motor in a Grand Prix, I asked her to start the motor, sounded fine, I gently open the throttle, and sounded like nails on a chalkboard, something broke inside there. I would never risk running a car on no oil. Oil is there to ensure my pistons, rods, camshaft, bearings, etc all stay properly lubed up as I floor it. Sure may get away with it, but still wouldn't do it in my cars.
 

Ray

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If anyone who is reading this is seriously considering running their car with little to no oil in it, please drive to Harrry's house first. It can be his responsibility to repair the damage afterwards.

Spinning a bearing takes a SPLIT SECOND drop in oil pressure... how much oil pressure do you think you will have in your car with NO OIL in it?

For those that are touting this as a proper thing to do: do a little reading, perhaps a little more learning..

For those that believe the above mentioned posters: do the same.
 
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