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Imrc ?

k well i put a spring on the cable on the cable, reset the CEL & for the moment it is off. i havent driven the car really yet but i guess i will give it some time to see if it comes back on. but b4 the CEL would come on rite when i would start the car.
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Well i take that bac drove the car & within a few mins the light came back on. Im gonna get it scanned to c if it pulls the same code. Mayb the spring isnt tight enough. I thought it was i felt pull the cable back when i installed it
 
well that may not work because the cable sheeth (outer plastic casing) isnt hard mounted so it can move around when the motor pulls on the cable.
 
Like I said you need to bolt the cable down. Usually there is a L shaped bracket on the end you can screw down (that's how it screws down to the LIM on a stock car). It's missing on yours. Hanging the end on a spring won't do anything.
 
ok i redid the cable & spring. i mounted the cable along the core support & ran the spring to a fender screw. it always has pressure on the spring now & the cable doesnt move. & i revved the engine a few times & was able to see it pull the cable & release it when the rpms dropped back down. so im guessing i have it right now. but what i am wondering, i notice that it doesnt have the power on low rpms like it used to b4 i did this. it does kick in around 3500 or so like the secondaries would & it does get a lil louder too. but it was never like that b4. it was kinda the other way around. it would pull real hard @ low rpms & just seemed to get weaker as they went up. i never noticed any sound or kick b4 when it hit the 3500 mark.it really feels & sounds like my 2.5 did with the secondaries. so is having the cable to a spring hooked up like that make it run like it has them.
 
With your motor being a full 3L and not tuned it's going to bog down at low rpm's so I don't know why it didn't bog down before you did this. Anyway I would either deal with it or remove it. Not to be an asshole or anything but your car isn't going to be right until you get a tune. If your state requires a test then go get it while the cable is hooked up and afterwards disconnect it. Aren't test good for a year? They are here in Atlanta. Honestly I would do whatever it takes to get a tune and that will fix your issues and make the car run a huelluva lot better!
 
Ya i would really like to get a tune. But being out of work & my wife not working & having 2 kids i cant quite afford it rite now. & here in IL for the emissions test if out CEL is on its an automatic fail. But i was thinking if b4 i did the spring thr IMRC was stuck open so maybe @ low rpms it was suckin in air or something then just like it does around the 3500 mark.
 
The IMRC spring fix won't change how the car runs/drives. It is only there to stop the check engine light from coming on. Full 3L's have no low end power unless you get a tune. If you had a ported 3l build you could run without a tune and the low end would be fine. With a full 3L you have to live with it until you get a tune.
 
ya i know i need the tune. i am planning on it as soon as i can get back to work & get some xtra cash. just for now i would like to get my CEL off. having the spring hooked up didnt take it off. i cleared the code & it stayed off until the rpm hit about 3500 then the light turned back on.
 
i assume its working when i have the hood open & i rev the throttle body i can see the cable & spring pull out then go back in like its working. it pulls it @ about 3500 then when i let off & the rpms drop back down i can see the spring pull the cable back.
 
All I know is that if it's setup correctly you won't get a light for a IMRC. Make sure there is enough tension on it at all times. I know the light can pop if there is slack in the line when the IMRC is closed.
 
ok thanx. ill maybe try & tighten it up a little more. see if that helps & maybe get the code checked again to make sure its still setting off the same code.
 
well i had the code checked & the IMRC code is gone, code was for the TPS. so guess the spring is working properly, i know i still need to get a tune when i get the $ but @ least its 1 less code that was on there. thanks for the tip.
 
I know you got your spring working, I just wanted to add the way I have done it. I got a compression spring that the end of the cable would not pull through. Then I wound the the cable through the spring until it went straight through the middle of the spring. Then, the spring would push against the cable housing and the end. This, makes it so the cable does all its own work and you can tuck it away out of sight.
 
Would u happen to hav a pic of it by chance. I ended up using the silver spring from a 3L TB bracket & ran it along the front of the core support then around the fuse box & then up the drivers fender. & its hidden under the lip on the fender & hooked to the fender screw. Seems to be working fine. I thought it wasnt & stil was triggering my CEL but turned out to b a TPS code so i guess it was fine all along
 
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