MadDog
Veteran CEG'er
This is the start of the how-to. I thought I would post it up here as I do it, and incorporate comments before it goes to the official How To sections.
Before we can talk about how to remove the side skirt, it is important on to show how it is attached to the car. Failure to understand this can result in damaging the skirt.
The first picture is of one of the skirts I removed. Yes, the picture is probably crappy, but blame my iPhone. The skirt is facing such that the viewer is facing the outside (shiny) side, which is the side that you want to see. The backside is not shiny and is probably really scuffed up after 12+ years of duty.
I should mention that the precise fasteners used to mount the skirt might vary from year to year. I can only show you what I pulled off the skirts on my car (2000 CSVT).
In the picture, there are 3 type of fasteners shown, A, B, and C. The red dots all correspond to a type "C" connector.
There are 2 type "A" connectors, one on each end of the skirt, and inserted parallel to the ground. These are small fasteners, with a 1/2" head.
I mangled mine a bit, but you get the idea of the type. I havnt found an exact replacement in any of the 4 local auto stores, but I am sure they can be bought somewhere. You can probably replace them with a type "B" connector, but I havnt confirmed the fit yet.
There are 2 type "B" connectors. These are very similar to the type "A", but have a larger head. I dont have a picture because I mangled mine beyond redemption. However, these appear to be the same as DOORMAN 799-135 or DOORMAN 963-058. These 2 fasteners go into the jackpoint cover wells and are inserted up from the ground into the body.
Finally, there are 9 fasteners ("C") on the backside of each skirt. These are nylon screw rivets. These are inserted (screwed) up, from the ground into the body.
In principle these are more re-usable, but after 12+ years, you should probably not re-use them. These appear to be the same as DOORMAN 961-050.
Removing the fasteners: First of all, this operation is a lot easier if the car is elevated. I wasnt able to do this because my jacks were too wide to fit through the jack point gaps. It is just barely possible to fit your head under the skirt to see the type "C" connectors and remove them. Barely.
The type "A" and "B" can be pried out with 2 small flat-bladed screwdrivers. IIRC, another person on the forum made a tool by cutting out a groove in an old spoon, which would work best. If you wrench the head off, then use needle-nose pliers to pull the shaft out.
The type "C" connectors are a little trickier. I used a phillips screwdriver for the screwhead and a pointed stainless spudger (a tool designed to pry things apart - you can use a small knife in its place). Often, if you try and just unscrew the screw, the entire thing will rotate in place. So, use the spudger or knife to lock the unit in place and then unscrew.
more later.....
Mad Dog
Before we can talk about how to remove the side skirt, it is important on to show how it is attached to the car. Failure to understand this can result in damaging the skirt.
The first picture is of one of the skirts I removed. Yes, the picture is probably crappy, but blame my iPhone. The skirt is facing such that the viewer is facing the outside (shiny) side, which is the side that you want to see. The backside is not shiny and is probably really scuffed up after 12+ years of duty.
I should mention that the precise fasteners used to mount the skirt might vary from year to year. I can only show you what I pulled off the skirts on my car (2000 CSVT).
In the picture, there are 3 type of fasteners shown, A, B, and C. The red dots all correspond to a type "C" connector.
There are 2 type "A" connectors, one on each end of the skirt, and inserted parallel to the ground. These are small fasteners, with a 1/2" head.
I mangled mine a bit, but you get the idea of the type. I havnt found an exact replacement in any of the 4 local auto stores, but I am sure they can be bought somewhere. You can probably replace them with a type "B" connector, but I havnt confirmed the fit yet.
There are 2 type "B" connectors. These are very similar to the type "A", but have a larger head. I dont have a picture because I mangled mine beyond redemption. However, these appear to be the same as DOORMAN 799-135 or DOORMAN 963-058. These 2 fasteners go into the jackpoint cover wells and are inserted up from the ground into the body.
Finally, there are 9 fasteners ("C") on the backside of each skirt. These are nylon screw rivets. These are inserted (screwed) up, from the ground into the body.
In principle these are more re-usable, but after 12+ years, you should probably not re-use them. These appear to be the same as DOORMAN 961-050.
Removing the fasteners: First of all, this operation is a lot easier if the car is elevated. I wasnt able to do this because my jacks were too wide to fit through the jack point gaps. It is just barely possible to fit your head under the skirt to see the type "C" connectors and remove them. Barely.
The type "A" and "B" can be pried out with 2 small flat-bladed screwdrivers. IIRC, another person on the forum made a tool by cutting out a groove in an old spoon, which would work best. If you wrench the head off, then use needle-nose pliers to pull the shaft out.
The type "C" connectors are a little trickier. I used a phillips screwdriver for the screwhead and a pointed stainless spudger (a tool designed to pry things apart - you can use a small knife in its place). Often, if you try and just unscrew the screw, the entire thing will rotate in place. So, use the spudger or knife to lock the unit in place and then unscrew.
more later.....
Mad Dog