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How to make new rear swaybar brackets on subframe.

solo92s10

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Aug 29, 2009
Messages
1,454
Location
Elizabethtown, PA
Going to walk you through making new mounts for the rear subframe. This requires a welder and a little creativity. Ive owned 2 csvt's now not counting the parts car and both of them have had broken mounts.

First thing you need is an swaybar bushing kit that comes with the bracket, such as energy suspension part #9.5122. Then youll need 4nuts and bolts to fit that. Also need to pick up some 1 1/2" square tubeing.

First thing to do is cut 3.5" of square tubing to fit your new mount.

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Then put it in the vice leaving 1/2" above the vice. Then use the vice as a guide to sawzall the 1/2" off. Leaving you with a piece that is 1 1/2" by 1".

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Then drill your holes for where your going to weld your nut. Make the holes slightly larger than the bolt size.

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Continue to next post-
 
Use a bolt to hold the nut in place and weld the nuts. No need to weld the whole nut, a few tac welds will do the job.

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Next you need to cut two notches in the subframe where the new brackets need to go. Be carefull not to get too close to the bolt hole for mounting the subframe.

Edit: After doing a few more of these for people, Ive gotten a little better technique that makes it easier with less guessing. Using my 14" chop saw with a 1/8" thick blade I make my two cuts exactly to each side of the factory mounts(be carefull not to cut into other parts of the subframe with the large diameter blade).Make your cut down flush with the bottom of the subframe. THis will leave you with something like this.

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Next step is to remove the old bracket mount. I leave behind the two tabs left behind as a guide on where to put your new mounts. Depending on how straight your cuts are your new mounts might drop right into its new home. You may need to grind the slots open a bit more though for the mounts to fully seat down in. A hammer also helps get them to seat correctly before welding.

Should now look like this.

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Final steps in next post.
 
Next youll want to tack the bracket into place. Make sure it is where you want it then finish fully welding it. I avoid welding where the bracket is near the subframe mounting hole to allow for proper clearance for the bolt.

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Finish both sides the same and then clean up your work and atleast primer it to help prevent rust.

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Now enjoy the lack of clunking everytime you go over a bump. You can do this many different ways this is just one way and ive done it a few different ways and this was deffinatley the easiest and is far superior to the factory mounting bracket.
 
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