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How do you guys reinstall the water pump pulley onto SVT cams?

S

SHOgoFast

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Curious how those that kept SVT cams reinstalled the water pump pulley.

The first time around I just heated up the pulley with a torch and pounded it on using a large socket and a rubber mallet.

This was pretty time consuming and seems like there should be a better way.
 
Thanks for the reply, but getting it off wasn't too bad. I want to know if people use another method to RE-install besides hammering it on.
 
Get a longer bolt that fits the cams internal thread, use a large washer or socket to span the pulleys large ID. Heat the pulley in an oven to 200-300 degrees and with gloves so you can handle the hot pulley, draw the pulley on with the bolt.
 
I have not had to remove the pully on any of the installs I have done. At least on the 2002 and 2003 Taurus/Sable engines I have gotten the bracket and pully were the same. So, I just left them on the CSVT cams and reinstalled.

I know that there is a seal, but I have not had any leaking from there so far, cross my fingers. There should not be much oil pressure - just sloshing.

Otherwise the heat and bolt sounds the best - that way you might apply less stress to the shaft.
 
I like the bolt idea but I don't believe the SVT shaft has threads in the end.

If I do a third build I will probably just take the bracket off and leave the pully on the camshaft. I actually wish I would have done that in the first place.
 
All the 2.5/3.0L Duratec engines which have rear water pump drive pulley have that cam threaded at the end. Don't know the exact thread size (likely metric) about 8mmish as I recall.
 
You are oh so correct!!! I used a combo of a large socket, 1 1/8 with washers and a bolt from the A/C compressor. That method worked great, it slid on right nice.

It is metric, M8x1.25 I do believe. The same as timing cover bolts and A/C compressor bolts.
 
Heat the pulley in the oven to 200 -220F and put the cam in the freezer for at least an hour. It should slip on but you've got to work fast and accurate. You should hammer on a pulley. Simply bad practice. If you have access to a hydraulic press that will work too.

When I did mine I removed the pulley so I could replace the seal. The cam had decent mileage and felt it was the right time to do it. I used a hydraulic press and had a helper. Don't wanna' drop the cam!
 
leave the bracket and pulley on it, if it didnt leak before it won't leak now.

the bracket is to be bolted onto the new head and it will fit, it has a gasket i always use a very small amount of RTV to be sure it will fit together snug, because a gap in it will make problems getting the valve cover to seal properly.... RTV is key anywhere there is a mating point in a gasket surface. that's obvious i'm sure you know this ;)
 
Murray's auto parts has an installer. I rented one and it literally took about two minutes to get it back on. Before that I had been trying various getto methods with no success.
 
Bradness said:
Heat the pulley in the oven to 200 -220F and put the cam in the freezer for at least an hour. It should slip on but you've got to work fast and accurate. You should hammer on a pulley. Simply bad practice. If you have access to a hydraulic press that will work too.
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I would be careful about putting it in the freezer. When you bring it out of the freezer, the moisture in the air will condense on the cam shaft and can cause rust if not properly protected beforehand. I've seen many parts scrapped this way after being removed from temp. controlled inspection labs.

Hammering it on is not going to work very well.
 
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