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high output alternator

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steelblueSE

Hard-core CEG'er
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Jul 31, 2003
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Not sure where to ask this but is there a company that makes high output alternators for our cars? I serached and it seems like everyone keeps the stock alternator and isn't running anything that big for amplifiers.

Another question- does anyone know how many amps are taken by the cars electrical system? I will need all the power I can get when I upgrade my system. Between both amps right now im running 170amps and I know that is far more than the supposed 130amp (or maybe 110) stocker is putting out. I would like to find an alternator that is at least 200amps.
 
Just the Alpine and the Crunch? If you have the 130A I wouldn't think twice. You're good to go.
Adding amp(s)? Which one(s)?

I'm running 1500w rms with the 110A. I don't blast it all that often, but I have no problems when I do. I have a Lanzar Optidrive 1000.1D (older Zed audio model) at 1 ohm for 1000w rms, and a Lanzar Opti4x400D running bridged and gain limited at 250x2 rms (rated for 360x2).
The 4x400d has 2x30A and the 1000.1d would have at least 3x30's, if not 4x30's if it had on board fuses.

Your amps may be theoretically capable of 150A+, but if you listen to music as opposed to test tones they will rarely if ever produce that much. Full volume music requires roughly 1/3 the current of a tone (depending on the type of music, 1/3 is erring on the high side). Realistically you're looking at 50-60A when you're leaning on it hard.



Not sure what all you're running but those 130A are stout alts. These cars don't have an extensive stock electrical demand.
 
I listen to music with heavy, low bass and I like to let it beat. The monoblock has 120a of fuses and the 4 ch has 50a. I know they won't draw that full amount but they ought to come close. The way a friend, who is ASE certified, explained it to me is that your system is limited by the alternator and after it powers the cars electrical systems, the remaining power is split up to power amplifiers. So that made my question how many amps are used to run the car and since I'm already drawing more power than my system can produce I need to upgrade the alt.
 
Car's electrical system probably draws 20-30A depending on accessories running.

We're running about the same amplifier power...
I guess I'm not convincing you that the power requirements of music do not approach the maximum current the amps are CAPABLE of drawing...
It's about a third. Assuming your amps CAN draw around 170A with full volume tones, they'll draw no more than a third of that with full volume music (55-60A).

A few months ago my original 110A alt died on me. Took the broken alt to an auto electric shop for possible repair. They said it was torched, not worth rebuilding and that I'd be better off just getting a new one. I explained my sound system to tech and he said to bring it by when I get the new one in and they'd measure my current draw.
At the time I was running my 1000w sub amp and 180x2 component amp. Both under-rated, but DMM set for rated power (1360 rms).
With Bass Mekanik v5.0 track #10 at full volume I watched the clamp meter vary from 30-65A. V stayed 12.8-13.5 and that was with a weakened battery.
Still all off a reman. 110A.

I've since replaced my 360w component amp with a 500w amp (actually 720, gain limited to 500). Still running fine.

steelblueSE said:
The way a friend, who is ASE certified, explained it to me is that your system is limited by the alternator and after it powers the cars electrical systems, the remaining power is split up to power amplifiers.
Click to expand...

Basically, yes.
However, it's not like once the alt reaches its maximum output things just stop. Your battery is sitting there capable of producing a few hundred amps at 12.5-12.8v for several seconds at a time. As long as your alt can handle most of the load your battery will not have a problem picking up the slack for some of the peak demands.

Nothing wrong with getting a big alt if you want one, but you are no where near NEEDING one, especially if you have the 130A.
There are 200A's and 220A's on ebay for $200-250 from DB electric which is a pretty respected company - I've dealt with them myself.
 
Liquid_force said:
I've since replaced my 360w component amp with a 500w amp (actually 720, gain limited to 500). Still running fine.
Click to expand...

Gain does not add or subtract power, it is for signal sensivity.

I am looking at monoblocks with amp ratings of 140-200amps, but I am leaning towards one with a 200a fuse, so it seems I would be grossly overworking the electrical system.
 
you can most certainly gain limit power out of the amp by setting it low. By setting the gain less sensitive than it needs to be for optimal power w/o clipping (for example setting it for 4v even though it's only being fed a 2v signal) the amp will not produce rated power under any circumstance.

That 200A option would give you a LOT of room for extra current demand.

The 110A can run 1500w worth of sound without a problem, and that's with 20-30A being absorbed by the stock electrical system - so there's 80A or so left over.
If you add another 90A of available current you should be good for 3kw or more.
 
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