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Grinding noise while coasting. 2000 CSVT

Kresnik

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
212
Grinding noise while coasting.

I've had this problem for a while, and recently did a bit of work on the car and it still persists. While under load there is almost no grinding noise to be heard, but the moment that I release the gas pedal is when the grinding comes back. The noise doesn't appear to change in either pitch or frequency in response to RPM or vehicle speed nor is it effected by turning. It comes from the front left, but I have ruled out the wheel bearing as it was replaced last summer and the noise was just the same before and after. The half-shaft was also replaced last spring as well, and the noise is just the same as before and after. If I shift the car into neutral, then the noise almost goes away – maybe 90% goes away.

Is it possible for the brake caliper bracket to be worn or distorted to cause this? How about the rotor? Wouldn't one eat away at the other to the point of mitigating the noise or showing considerable wear? Neither seem evident.

Could a worn motor mount cause something like this? The front mount had a black rubber insert which felt a little soft, though still decent. It was replaced with a red silicon insert this past week, and it had no apparent change. The rear motor mount was torn up and soft, and as quick/temporary fix I placed sized metal rods into the holes to firm it up. It's much more firm now (semi-solid), I can no longer feel the engine rock back and forth as I did before. The one thing that I did notice odd about these motor mounts is that the through hole for the bolt was MUCH larger than the bolt size it self, so it seems as if there is a bit of room for slop. Is this normal, or should there be a shim of sorts in there? I've pulled many motors and transaxles and this is my first time seeing such a design. Is it possible for the tensioner (?) on the front mount to some-how manifest this? Considering that the mount has a nice silicon insert to stiffen it up, I wonder if it's okay to simply remove it.

I lifted the car, set it on stands and turned it over. I lightly gave it some gas to increase the rpm and wheel speed, and naturally, the noise didn't manifest. Perhaps it needs the full load (weight?) of the car on the problem in order to manifest it.

Could worn rubber in a control arm be part of this? The control arms were both replaced four years ago and the suspension is quite stiff, so I'm hesitant to consider that a first option.


Any thoughts, suggestions or especially experience on this would be huge. :)


(2000 C-SVT, 160K Miles, 5-speed).
 
I got some strange noise under deceleration, no-load conditions, when my differential was on its way out. It wasn't exactly a grinding sound in my case, more of a clatter. If I was accelerating or holding a constant speed, it was quiet. But as soon as it came off power and engine-braked even a tiny bit, it would start to clatter.

Drain the trans fluid and see if there's any chunky stuff in there.
 
I got some strange noise under deceleration, no-load conditions, when my differential was on its way out. It wasn't exactly a grinding sound in my case, more of a clatter. If I was accelerating or holding a constant speed, it was quiet. But as soon as it came off power and engine-braked even a tiny bit, it would start to clatter.

Drain the trans fluid and see if there's any chunky stuff in there.

Heya!

I had just completely drained the transaxle, installed new half-shaft seals as well as a focus shift tower. I pulled the old bolt head out of the transaxle while it was dry. The gearbox was filled with 3qts of Motorcraft honey, and the noise is no different now than before. I had a video of the sound, I'll have to see if I can find it again -- very much a grind and not a clatter.

I also didn't notice any excessive amount of shavings, nor any 'chunks' of anything inside of the transaxle case. It was more clean than most cases I've ever been in. :-/

Thanks! :)
 
Good to know; the diff failure is about the most heartbreaking thing there is to deal with on this platform.
 
This had happened to me on my mothers van and came from her front left too. It was a grinding/scraping noise on coasting. It turned out to be the brake rotor was warped and also be because the front end needed to be aligned. It didn't occur on acceleration bc the weight shifted and on braking it did not occur because it squeezed the brakes enough to overcome the scraping from it being warped and misaligned. This also led to uneven tread wear on the tire... If it's the same noise I'm thinking of, it could possibly be that and will progressively get louder an worse over time...
 
Sounds like an internal trans or clutch noise to me. I have something similar with my built trans. Went away when I swapped the stock 2.5 back in and left the OEM clutch on. I know my noise is coming from the clutch.

Have you done a trans/clutch replacement lately?
 
Sounds like an internal trans or clutch noise to me. I have something similar with my built trans. Went away when I swapped the stock 2.5 back in and left the OEM clutch on. I know my noise is coming from the clutch.

Have you done a trans/clutch replacement lately?

Heya! I replaced both the flywheel and clutch last spring, and like everything else, the noise is just the same before as after. I gotta wonder if that metal 'seal' (?) between the transcase and motor is somehow warped and/or distorted. I assumed that it should straighten out with everything together, though I wonder at times. That 'seal' was a magnificent pain in the ass to align and keep straight while getting the transaxle to line up properly with the motor.

Neither the clutch nor flywheel had any amount of wear, grinding, scraping or otherwise obvious evidence to suggest that they were indeed scraping against something. Because my clutch was going out, I had first assumed this noise to be related -- but it appears to not be.

I found a video clip that I made of it before @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybHgOd3__zo . Around 0:27 you can more easily hear the scraping over my (now fixed) exhaust leak -- sorry, it's not so great.
 
check your axle nuts. mine broke from being improperly installed and the rotor was rubbing on the caliper bracket

I'll check again when I'm able to lift the car up again, in another couple of days. I would love for it to be something so simple and silly, but I'm afraid my luck isn't so good. :/
 
This had happened to me on my mothers van and came from her front left too. It was a grinding/scraping noise on coasting. It turned out to be the brake rotor was warped and also be because the front end needed to be aligned. It didn't occur on acceleration bc the weight shifted and on braking it did not occur because it squeezed the brakes enough to overcome the scraping from it being warped and misaligned. This also led to uneven tread wear on the tire... If it's the same noise I'm thinking of, it could possibly be that and will progressively get louder an worse over time...

Over the summer I had both rotors turned at the local car quest when I had also replaced that side's wheel bearing. The rotor is showing uneven wear and tear, even after having installed brand new ceramic pads. That side's brake slides did feel as if they were sticking quite a bit, so I stripped 'em clean with simple green, replaced both rubber boots and packed 'em with a tube of anti-seize brake goop that the local part's store highly recommended, but that made is SUPER sticky and I could barely muscle the pin out from there -- so I had to disassamble and clean it all a second time, this time packing it in a more conventional grease (as I normally do). The pins do slide nicely in and out, unlike before. I did notice that i had to slightly grind-down the saddle of the caliper assembly as the rotor would occasionally tick it if I were to spin the wheel by hand (while making certain to keep the rotor well pressed against the hub to prevent it from bowing off).

Perhaps related to this, is that I noticed when I am coasting with it in gear, the grinding is not only well pronounced but will bring the car to a quick stop from the resistance of this. If I hold in the clutch though, it'll take quite a while to come to a hault -- so the grade of drag is considerably changed whether or not the clutch is pushed in. I didn't try simply setting it in neutral, though I'd assume the result to be exactly the same.

What ever the problem is, it's really frustrating. I haven't 'thrown money at a problem' to fix something in many years, and having been a certified mechanic with a Mazda specialization, this is more morally defeating than my ego would like for it to be. :/

Also, in regard to something simply scraping. My grinding is quite low pitched and it resonates well inside of the cabin of the windows are up, though it's rather mute if they are down -- both as an affect of acoustics and the out-side air rushing past my ears. I'm quite keen at picking up the source of most scrapes due to their pitch and vibration patterns - a dust shield dragging across a rotor is quite different to me than a simple pad's wear bar scratching that same rotor. I'll double check around the rotor to see if there are any traces of a once present dust shield.

Thanks again everyone for the help, ideas and suggestions.
 
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