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Fuel pump wiring

DuratecDave

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 4, 2000
Messages
314
Location
Tity of Salsa, Okla
Car cranks but won't start. Couldn't hear the fuel pump prime, very little to no pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Fuse and relay & their voltage tested good in underhood box, inertia switch tested good, little over 7 volts (7.4 IIRC) at the fuel pump connector underneath the back seat bottom. New inline filter. Figured FP was dead, so I swapped it with my 98 SE known-working pump. Now it appears dead as well. More than 1/2 tank of fuel. Both fuel pumps pick-up screens were clean.

4 wires at the fuel pump, can you lend me a clue. Chilton's says there is only one wire, and its pink!

* White/Red stripe (have continuity with ground. When key is on, I have atleast 6volts DC. I think this is the gauge?)
* Purple/Orange stripe (have continuity with ground. When key is turned on, I have 12V for a little over a second, then atleast 6 volts until key is turned off. Same wire arriving at and leaving the inertia switch)
* Black/Blue stripe (have continuity to ground, regardless of key position -- what is this wire?)
* solid Black (have continuity to ground, regardless of key position, good thing its solid black)

I pulled out the driver side sill, pulled carpet back and unwrapped what appears to be complete, unmolested wires from the inertia switch all the way back under the rear seat, everything appears in good order, no bad wires visible upon inspection. From the inertia switch forward it seems that harness disappears behind heavy noise insulation on the firewall that I really didn't want to tear into.

The only codes the car is giving is C1156, LF wheel speed sensor circuit open, which I know about & plan to fix, as well as C1166, something about RR wheel speed sensor input open circuit, haven't looked into this yet.

So my question would be, what drives the fuel pump, is it normal that there are no codes, what am i overlooking or missing? No leaks, I did have the LIM pushed to the side for cleaning, but no lines are pinched. Car will cough and try to run on light shots of ether.
 
OK, its somewhat fixed. I ran a 12V jumper to the purple/orange terminal, added a ground, and Voila!, fuel pump runs. Car starts and runs like a champ. I'll need to eventually determine why I'm not getting full power to the pump. Also no fuel gauge obviously since the harness isn't plugged. On my 98 SE Sport parts car, the black wire/blue stripe carry's no voltage to the fuel pump. Which is good, because it appears to be the ground for the white/red fuel gauge lead.

No plans to drive the car like this, I just needed to hear it run, and it seems to scream, which is cool with me....
 
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