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Fuel Pump problem?

N

nerrad316

New CEG'er
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
8
Hello

I have a 2000 SVT and it has been sitting for over 18 months. I changed fluids and plugs. I went to try to start it and nothing? Checked fuses and relays and they appear to be good. I checked pressure on the fuel rail but no pressure. So i listened and there was no fuel pump sounds when i turned key on.

How can i test fuel pump? ANd do i have to replace the entire assembly or can i just change fuel pump?


Thanks


Darren
 
Start by checking if the fuse is blown.

Fuse no. 14 and Relay no. 8.

Fusediagram, fusepanel, fusebox

Fuses
POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX next to the battery

Fuse number
.... Amp...
............- Color
..................... Circuit

1 - 80 - Black - Main power
2 - 60 - Yellow - Engine cooling fan
3 - 60 - Yellow - ABS braking system, Heater blower motor
4 - 20 - Yellow - Daytime running lights
5 - 15 - Light Blue - Fog lamp
6 - Not used
7 - 20 - Yellow - ABS system
8 - Not used
9 - 20 - Light Blue - ECU
10 - 20 - Light Blue - Ignition switch
11 - 3 - Violet - ECU memory
12 - 15 - Light Blue - Horn, Hazard flasher warning system
13 - 20 AMPs- Yellow - Oxygen sensor
14 - 15 - Light Blue - Fuel pump
15 - 10 - Red - Low beam, passenger side
16 - 10 - Red - Low beam, driver's side
17 - 10 - Red - High beam, passenger side
18 - 10 - Red - High beam, driver's side


PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX

Fuse #
.... Amp...
............- Color
..................... Circuit
19 - Not used
20 - 10 - Black - Wiper motors (circuit breaker)
21 - 40 - Orange - Power windows
22 - 7.5 - Brown - ABS module
23 - 15 - Light Blue - Backup lights
24 - 15 - Light Blue - Brake lights
25 - 20 - Yellow - Door locks
26 - 7.5 - Brown - Main light
27 - 15 - Light Blue - Cigarette lighter
28 - 30 - Light Green - Electric seats
29 - 30 - Light Green - Rear window defroster
30 - 7.5 - Brown - Engine management system
31 - 7.5 - Brown - Instrument panel illumination
32 - 7.5 - Brown - Radio
33 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lamps - drivers side
34 - 7.5 - Brown - Interior lights, electric side mirrors, clock
35 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lights - passenger side
36 - 10 - Red - Air bag
37 - 30 - Light Green - Heater blower motor
38 - Not used


Relays
POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX next to the battery

Relay - Circuit
R1 - Daytime running lights
R2 - Radiator fan, high speed
R3 - Air conditioning
R4 - Air conditioning clutch
R5 - Radiator fan, low speed
R6 - Starter solenoid
R7 - Horn
R8 - Fuel pump
R9 - Headlight, low beam
R10 - Headlight, high beam
R11 - ECU module
D1 - Reverse voltage protection
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE B0X
Relay - Circuit
R12 - Interior lighting
R13 - Rear window defroster
R14 - Heater blower motor
R15 - Wiper motor
R16 - Ignition
D2 - Reverse voltage protection
 
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Gasolline turns to jelly after being left alone unless you put a fuel stabilizer in the tank prior to storage, try putting some stabilizer/gas into the tank and rock the car around to mix it, let it sit for a day and try again. Worst that'll happen is you wasted a couple bucks in stabilizer and gas and you need to continue troubleshooting ^.x
 
okay here is what i have done

checked fuses and they all checked good. put some "engine starter" into the air intake and the motor starts and runs until ether is burnt off. So i attempted to vent the fuel rail using the pressure check valve to bleed air but got no fuel.

There is no Audible nosie of the fuel pump turning on when the key is turned. Is there a way to put a 12volt battery to the pump and see if it turns?

Or should i put some stablizer in tank and give it a day before i try again.

Thanks for the suggestions
 
Would that be auto fuel shutoff switch? If not where would i look to find it?


Thanks again
 
That is the impact switch that shuts off the fuel pump if you are in an accident. It can be tripped from someone hitting your bumper in a parking lot or even from bouncing a wheel off a curb.

It is on the driver's side kick panel.
 
I would put 12 volts straight to the fuel pump. Pull up the back seat, you will see the black rubber cover with wires going through it. Pull that up and remove the harness. I don't have the wire colors in front of me but look at the harness and the larger two wires are for the pump, the other two smaller ones are for the float level.
If you know which wire is the lead and ground, then you tap the lead wire with the harness attached and use the car as the ground (and using the cars positive for power). Or, I had a little 12 volt battery with me, you can just manually hook up a positive and negative right there just to the pump (electrically separate from the car) and it won't really matter which way current goes throught the pump (worked in my case). You should hear noise or not. I have a fuel pump die on me simply from the car sitting while I had been working on it. Just happened. My guess is your pump is dead.
On the 2000 with returnless fuel, the pump is in the round plastic enclosure. It's six in one hand if you want to take that all apart and just swap the pump or do the whole unit. Maybe a good excuse to upgrade to a Focus SVT fuel pump.
 
I will look at the wiring harness and test fuel pump locally.

how will i know which Focus Pump will work for my SVT. I will replace it if i can get the right part.

I have jumpered around the fuel cutoff switch so that is not my problem.


thanks for all the help
 
It just has to be a focus SVT pump. Here is an ebay auction as an example

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I don't know if you have seen a return style pump... but these are different. The bottom piece twists and clicks in the the tank and the top just locks in at the top. But notice the variety of vehicles in the eBay acution. From what I gather these tougher pumps are good for a few different Fords. You can do a search for Focus SVT pump and see the same results.

You can replace just the pump, but that's a little more hassle with these styles. Oh, fyi, from what i remember, I believe one of the wires going to your fuel pump is black, that ought to be the ground if you choose tapping the harness to test the pump.
 
I bought the focus fuel pump assemby. will the assembly replace the stock one? or do i have to replace something as it looks like the top of it is different as well as the connections.

Just never had a fuel problem like this before and if the new fuel pump is what i need to do then that is what i will do. I only got 45K on it,


Thanks for help
 
I have never seen a focus pump myself... I know it a popular upgrade, perhaps people just upgrade the pump. What really sucks, is either way I think you have to drop the tank to get the pump out, unless you don't, usually the whole is not big enough. But, I suppose you should be prepared as you are having trouble anyway. But, at least with return style (a little easier to work with, just the way the assembly is put together) it's pretty easy to swap the pumps out only.
I suppose its also worth saying that the car can be funny if you put in a different float level. Perhaps people just change the pump intself and not the assembly. I don't want to steer you wrong. What I know will work... is if you change the pump itself within the assembly it should work. All the pump has to do is pump.
 
The Focus fuel pump is for use on a returnless system only, so first determine if you have a returnless system. The pump module on a returnless system is too big to fit through the hole in the floorpan under the rear seat.

If it is returnless, what you want is the Focus SVT pump. The regular Focus pump does not have as much capacity.

If using the Focus SVT pump, you want the pump only, not the entire pump module. You will need to remove the pump module from your tank, take it apart, and install the SVT Focus pump. Slight modification is needed but it should be obvious and minor.

There is a how to for getting the pump out of the tank by enlarging the hole in the floorpan, but unless someone saved the link you probably cannot access it until the CEG site improvements are completed.
 
Okay. I got my Focus SVT pump and lowered the tank but cant seem to get the fuel line removed from the assemby. It lookls like it needs special tool to remove it as there are some metal binders holding it on. And is there a technique to get the locking ring to move? I used a small flathead but no turns. Just dont want to make more work if i break it.



Thanks

Darren
 
nerrad316 said:
Okay. I got my Focus SVT pump and lowered the tank but cant seem to get the fuel line removed from the assemby. It lookls like it needs special tool to remove it as there are some metal binders holding it on.
Click to expand...
If you mean the fuel lines going in the top of the pump assembly... they are a barb fitting. Most people use pliers to pull them up and out. It is a bit scary cos they are made of plastic and until you've pulled one out you don't know how much force to use. It will need to be inched out a little bit at a time. Be patient and it will eventually start moving up. Try popping the plastic outer ring up first
nerrad316 said:
And is there a technique to get the locking ring to move? I used a small flathead but no turns. Just dont want to make more work if i break it.
Click to expand...
You seem to be doing the right thing.. keep tapping the lock ring and it will start to undo. Look at the lock ring carefully and you will see the taper and it will show which way to undo...G.
 
Spray some grease, wd40, or I use deep creap sea foam on the lock ring. It's a pita but it will come loose eventually. Worst case, tank the tank (detach electrical and unhook the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter) take the whole thing to a shop, don't see why somebody couldn't just grab a tool and know it loose for you.
 
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