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Forced Induction FAQ

beyondloadedSE

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 29, 2000
Messages
3,794
Location
Louisville, Ky
The Forced Induction Info thread in the old forums was outdated, so I made a new one with FAQ's that I thought were important. If some of this information needs to be updated or changed, let me know via PM. Thanks.

Who makes a turbocharger or supercharger kit?
Nautilus Performance who is ran by two members of CEG currently offer a turbo kit and is the #1 source for your forced induction needs. The stage 1 kit will make about 255-265 whp @ 9 psi on a relatively stock 2.5L motor and about 280 whp with the upgraded FMIC @ 10 psi. Horsepower numbers for a 3.0L are to be released soon.

Arizona Dyno Chip (formerly known as Street Flight) used to make two different turbo kits. The standard kit came with a T-28 Garrett turbo while the other kit came with larger T3/T4 Garrett turbo, larger intercooler, etc. The T-28 kit is good for about 280-300 whp and the T3/T4 kit makes about 380-400+ whp. Cost of the kit was $5000-6000 depending on which stage was purchased. ADC currently no longer makes a turbo kit, but used turbo kits do pop up in the classifieds from time to time.

There is one supercharger kit thats currently available. Blackcoog at 3Lduratec.com offers a centrifugal supercharger setup that utilizes a Vortech supercharger unit. Cost is estimated to be about $3200 but may be subject to change. Currently this kit has only been tested on a 3.0L but did make 325 whp, 278 wtq. For more information check out www.3lduratec.com.

Vortech did make a centrifugal supercharger kit, but is now discontinued. The earlier kits did have reliability issues with the jackshaft stripping, but supposedly the 2nd revision made by Vortech fixed the problem. The kit has been shown to make 340 whp on a 3.0L and about 292 whp on a heavily modded 2.5L.

Nautilus is currently developing a supercharger kit. More info to come when available.

Where can I read more about the Nautilus Performance turbo kit?
www.nautilusperformance.com

http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=6006

I saw that Forced Fab offers a turbo kit for this car? Is this true?
They did make one or two prototype kits and do pop up for sale every now and again, but Forced Fab doesn't carry a very high reputation so most people tend to shun away from them.

What about those electric superchargers on ebay? Are they worth buying?"
They make great a great paperweight for your home office.

Which is better? A turbocharger or supercharger?
We’ll discuss only the kits that are in existence for the contour. First of all, both have their advantages. A turbocharger makes more low end torque compared to the centrifugal supercharger and much more power under the curve. Full boost with a turbo kit with the T-28 or T3/T4 is generally achieved at about 2,800 rpms-3,400 rpms depending on the application. The Nautilus Performance turbo kit should be similar in terms of performance. The Vortech and 3Lduratec.com superchargers kits makes full boost at redline and the power is much more linear. Unfortunately, the Vortech kit does not come with an intercooler, engine management, and the earlier kits were prone to failure.

Is there a twin turbo kit available for the Contour?
No. Honestly there’s hardly enough room for a single turbo. How do you think you’re going to fit two? Even if you’re shooting for 500 hp, a single turbo will make just as much power as a twin turbo kit. Twin turbo’s are purely for the “pimp factor” on this motor. There are no benefits. You'll get the same hp with more money spent, and probably more headaches in the long run due to complexity. If you want 1000 hp, first you decide how you’re going to put the power to the ground, and then you can consider a custom twin turbo kit without us laughing at you.

What about STS turbo systems? Will it work on a Contour/Mystique? Would this open up the opportunity for a twin turbo system?
STS doesn't make a kit for these cars, but the concept would work. I suppose a twin turbo system could be feasible but take in consideration, you've now spent more money for a less efficient and more expensive twin turbo kit that will perform equally or worse than a standard single turbo ADC or Nautilus Performance turbo kit. As its already been mentioned before, a single turbo can be matched to make just as much power as a twin turbo system and since this is a FWD application where traction is limited, going to a twin turbo system on this platform is pointless.

If I build my own turbo kit, how much will it cost?
Some people have decided to go the budget route and fabricate their own turbo kit. While in general, power isn’t as great as the custom kits, it’s still a cheap alternative. Nevertheless, you still need the “know how” to make this kit work and to keep costs low. Only a couple people on this forum have actually built their own kits. Prices range anywhere from $1500-$3500 depending on the quality of the components, labor fees, etc while power ranges have shown to be from 240 whp-350 whp.

What do I need if I’m making my own turbo kit?
Take a look at what was included in the old ADC kit. That’s a good start.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...349778&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

Who can tune my car?
Tom (warmonger) from Nautilus Performance is the guy to tune your car. Send him a PM if you’re interested in having a mail order tune. You’ll have to purchase an X-CAL 2 and he can burn a tune onto that. If you need an X-CAL 2, you can purchase one from www.nautilusperformance.com or www.brenspeed.com.

How much boost can I run?
Your question is really not how much boost can I run, but how much power can I make safely. Every turbo is different and every motor is different. 10 pounds of a boost on a small T-28 turbo is no where close to 10 pounds of boost on a GT-47 turbo. Likewise, 10 psi on a stock 2.5L is different than 10 psi on a highly modified 2.5L. Yes, the boost levels between the two are the same but the power made is different. To answer your question, a stock bottom end 2.5L has been shown to make 300 whp and 415 whp on a stock bottom end 3.0L. See this thread for further explanation.

Will this (STI, WRX, EVO, etc) turbo work on my car?
This is a classic question. Many people think if you’ve got a turbo, it can work on any car, and not only that, but it’s a simple “bolt-on.” While this is partly true that a turbo could be put on any motor, not every turbo works well with every engine. Turbochargers that are made for 2.0L I4 motors are generally undersized for even a 2.5L motor. So your thinking, “My buddy runs 20 pounds of boost on his civic. Why can’t it work on mine?” Boost is really irrelevant and it’s really the amount of CFM (cubic feet per minute) or lb/min of air the motor draws through. Generally, these small turbochargers off 2.0L motors don’t create much extra CFM (or lb/min) to push through the 2.5L or a 3.0L motor compared to the amount of CFM (or lb/min) a 2.5L or 3.0L draws naturally aspirated. If you really want to know how well that specific turbo will work, find the CFM chart of that turbo. FWIW, nobody asking this silly question has yet to build their own turbo kit.

Which intercooler should I use?
A lot depends on personal preference and your power goals. Due to the limited space behind the front fascia, a small FMIC can be fitted, however, for large power numbers, this won’t be efficient enough. For the Nautilus Performance turbo kit, this is probably a good choice for the hp goals of the kit. A FMIC also helps free some room underneath the engine bay as compared to a water/air intercooler. On the other hand, if you’re seeking big hp, a water/air is almost mandatory. The 700 CFM water/air Spearco intercooler that’s supplied with the T3/T4 ADC kit has shown to support 400 whp. It has very high efficiency, but the cost to fabricate one is expensive.

Are my internals strong enough for FI?
The stock rods have been shown to handle 400 whp. The pistons however, do have weak ring lands depending on the year. Read the Piston Durability thread for more info. Your cheapest route is to pick up a 2001+ Escape motor if you’re going with a 3.0L or find the revised 2000 SVT pistons if you’re going with a 2.5L. If stock pistons aren’t your fancy, Diamond makes forged pistons for both engines.

Will the Ford Escape roots supercharger fit the Contour?
No. There isn’t enough hood clearance as well as mounting issues.

Who makes custom internals for this car?
Pauter makes forged rods for both the 2.5L and 3.0L since they use the same rods. They can be purchased at www.pauter.com. Diamond also makes forged pistons for both applications and can be purchased at www.diamondracing.net.

Is there an installation manual for the ADC turbo kit, Vortech supercharger, and NPG turbo kit?
Yes. For the ADC installation manual click here

For the Vortech installation manual click here

For NPG Turbo kit manual click here

What size injectors do I need?
A lot depends on your power goals. You’ll need at bare minimum 24 lb injectors which can support around 270 whp. If you’re shooting for more than that, it’s best to look into some 39 lb or 42 lb injectors.

Which MAF do I use?
The 80 mm Ford Lightning MAF (Part #XL3F-12B579-AA) seems to be the favorite MAF to use. It’s been said to be good for 450 whp. Other people have used the Ford Lightning 90 mm MAF as well. While the resolution for tuning will be less, people haven’t seemed to have any problems. This makes tuning very easy since the calibration is the same for all Lightning 80 mm as well as the same for the 90 mm. Trying to tune with a Pro-M MAF can complicate things since every calibration is different.

Will my ATX handle the power of FI?
First of all, neither the ADC turbo kit nor the Vortech supercharger fit the ATX. There is rumors that the Nautilus Performance turbo kit that will be released will have an ATX version, however, the CD4E automatic will not hold up to high torque loads. Nobody has yet to put any sort of FI on their car with a CD4E so knowledge is very limited. The CD4E have had problems holding up to the 3.0L’s extra torque but the failure could have been due to the installer rather than the ATX itself. If properly built, the ATX could probably be reliable with small amounts of boost or nitrous.

What times can I expect to run with a turbo, supercharger, nitrous?
Traction is very limited in these cars. Contour’s with turbochargers generally make so much low end torque, that some people don’t even put all the power to the ground until 3rd or 4th gear. They do make great highway runners though. On the other hand, the Vortech’s power is much linear so traction isn’t as much of an issue, but due to not making as much power under the curve as a turbo, the times are slower. Currently, the fastest recorded time with a turbo is a 13.2. Most times are around high 13s and low 14s. With the Vortech the fastest recorded time is a 14.1. Nitrous is a bit trickier due to the setup, but it should imitate the turbo times due to the more aggressive torque. The fastest recorded time with nitrous is also a 13.2. (Times as of 2/6/2007)

What plugs should I use?
Heres a thread from the old forums.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...8116&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=all&fpart=1
Heres one from the Noble forums.
http://www.nobleforums.com/showthread.php?t=321

What’s a safe shot of a nitrous for this car?
The general rule of thumb is to run no higher than half of the car’s stock horsepower. For example, for a 200 horsepower motor, it’s recommended to not go any higher than 100 shot of nitrous. Most people here run a 75 shot with much success.
 
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Whats Generally Needed for a Safe Nitrous Setup?
If you plan on running your nitrous effectivly you really should run:
Purge Kit
Bottle Warmer
One step colder plugs (most use NGK TR6 or NGK TR55)
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch.
Wideband 02 Sensor.

Optional Equipment:
Blowdown tube (usually only needed for the track)
Window Switch


Do i need a tune to run nitrous?
Its a general understanding that any car running under a 75 shot dosent require a tune. For cars using a 75+ hp shot you should strongly look at getting a custom road or dyno tune, or at the least get someone who knows how to tune to send you a program.

Will the stock Clutch Hold my nitrous?
The stock clutch can hold up to about a 75 shot. My car had clutch slip in 1st gear on my 75 shot, 2nd and up it was fine. A spec stage 1 should hold as much power as you ever want to use with nitrous.

Will the stock Differential Hold the power?
Anything up to a 100 shot should be good on the stock differential from a 2nd gear roll. If you plan on spraying from a dig your better off getting a quaife or a torsen otherwise your looking at some problems.

Wet or Dry? Which is better?
A wet kit mixes fuel with the nitrous before spraying it, Most people will tell you to go for the wet kit if your going to spend the money. Its easier to tune with and its safer to use. Dry kits are usually good for under 75hp shots.

What are WOT and window switches?
WOT switches wire into the TPS, basically when you go WOT the nitrous sprays, its a simple system that works well for most applications. Its easy to use and easy to wire.
Window Switches use a "window of opportunity" to spray the nitrous. Basically you can set the RPM range that you want to spray nitrous in (ex 4000rpms-6500rpms)

Some people use Both systems with great success and ease of use at the track.
 
Unfortunately, the Vortech kit does not come with an intercooler, engine management, and the earlier kits were prone to failure.
Vortech superchargers that run under 8-9psi do not require an intercooler. Vortech recommends against using an intercooler because very little heat is generated and you will loose boost pressure through the intercooler = less hp.

Vortech has a very good FAQ which can be seen here for those interested: http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support.php?support_section=Frequently%20Asked%20Questions

For those concerned about kit failures the last revision of the Vortech kit that was sold used a pin drive which seemed reliable but it's nearly impossible to find one now. Our kit does not use a jackshaft and so far has no known reliability issues.
 
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