Flickering battery light...

[ConnContour]

I just noticed last night that my battery light would flicker, but not stay red. I've had no problem starting or keeping a charge. I'll take it to autozone to see if they can test both the battery and alternator. 97 Duratec, ATX, 262K.

Any other ideas?

 

[KerryKool]

Check all the connection between the battery and alt. for anything loose. I had a similar problem not to long ago, it ended up being a broken mega fuse that would make enough contact when I used my brakes to turn the light off.

 

[AliasJerk]

flickering means the brushes are floating in the alternator, you can run a car for quite some time with the alternator not charging the battery or in your case lightly charging the battery.

I put $100 on new alternator time, and you wanna make sure you get a motorcraft alternator, none of the autozone/murrays/pepboys garbage, those usually give you problems right out of the box.

 

[JKoffler44]

I put $100 on new alternator time, and you wanna make sure you get a motorcraft alternator, none of the autozone/murrays/pepboys garbage, those usually give you problems right out of the box.

No kidding! I had one start on fire on me in my garage. Then I replaced it with their warranty swap and my lights would flicker. I told the shop that I wanted a Motorcraft. Haven't had any problems yet (knock on wood)...

 

[CSVT#49]

So I've got a question. I just replaced my alternator with an old OEM one that was on my original blow engine that came in the car when I bought it. I had taken it in and it tested good so I installed it in the car. Well at the same time I performed that alternator wiring fix with the regulator wiring. Well now when I drive the alternator light flickers when I first start out. I have a voltage gauge installed on the car and it shows 13.8-14V when this happens... any ideas?? The kicker is after the car has warmed up and the voltage gauge shows 13-13.5v the battery light no longer flickers. The battery is getting charged there's no question about it, but I'm guessing the light trips for an over voltage as well? Anyway let me know what you guys think.

 

[Silverfro98]

I just noticed last night that my battery light would flicker, but not stay red. I've had no problem starting or keeping a charge. I'll take it to autozone to see if they can test both the battery and alternator. 97 Duratec, ATX, 262K.

Any other ideas?

check your brake fluid levels.

 

[striker2]

So I've got a question. I just replaced my alternator with an old OEM one that was on my original blow engine that came in the car when I bought it. I had taken it in and it tested good so I installed it in the car. Well at the same time I performed that alternator wiring fix with the regulator wiring. Well now when I drive the alternator light flickers when I first start out. I have a voltage gauge installed on the car and it shows 13.8-14V when this happens... any ideas?? The kicker is after the car has warmed up and the voltage gauge shows 13-13.5v the battery light no longer flickers. The battery is getting charged there's no question about it, but I'm guessing the light trips for an over voltage as well? Anyway let me know what you guys think.

13.8-14V is about perfect. the technical range is about 13.5 to 14.7 so your fine there. I would check your connection on voltage sensing wire, the red one you cut to mount to the power wire. if its loose or doesnt have a good connection the light may come one, flicker, or be faint.

check your brake fluid levels.

brake fluid levels have nothing to do with the battery light. the only light that comes on with low brake fluid is the parking brake/low brake fluid light.

 

[CSVT#49]

13.8-14V is about perfect. the technical range is about 13.5 to 14.7 so your fine there. I would check your connection on voltage sensing wire, the red one you cut to mount to the power wire. if its loose or doesnt have a good connection the light may come one, flicker, or be faint.

Good idea, however I have a hard time believing that's the issue. As I stripped the wires long enough to pass completely through a butt-end splice connector with no insulation, crimping it onto the wires. Then I dump solder into the butt-end splice ends and the center opening. Once that's completed I wrap it with electrical tape and cover it with corrugated tubing.

Would that be the only possibility? Also if I had a connection problem I would expect it to be intermittent throughout the entire commute not just as the engine warms up.

 

[striker2]

Good idea, however I have a hard time believing that's the issue. As I stripped the wires long enough to pass completely through a butt-end splice connector with no insulation, crimping it onto the wires. Then I dump solder into the butt-end splice ends and the center opening. Once that's completed I wrap it with electrical tape and cover it with corrugated tubing.

Would that be the only possibility? Also if I had a connection problem I would expect it to be intermittent throughout the entire commute not just as the engine warms up.

its possible that something on the connection is just loose enough that when cold it doesnt have a good connection all the time and thus the flickering light. once everything warms up and expands slightly it has a consistent connection.

however, based on how you made the connection, i doubt its that. i would start looking at the voltage regulator, the problem is that you really cant get to it without taking the alternator out.

 

[shurik06_83]

light flicker = bad brushes brush race on the armature is almost worn threw bad regulator or ur alternator is not geting a ground IE white crusty stuff on mount points on the alternator body not leting it ground all the time or the regulator not grounding to the alternator body lose os rust or white rusty stuff