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Eroded Bypass Pipe

S

Scorpion8

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
Messages
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Location
Juneau, AK
The coolant bypass pipe that crosses in front of the Zetec engine and connects from the coolant lower hose y-junction to the thermostat housing lower connection on my daughter's 5/98-build Zetec is eroding and getting pinhole leaks. It's been brazed up already, but am trying to find a new bypass pipe. Team Ford and Tousley Ford list the bypass hose (snaky thing, as it has differing diameters at each end), and in one case their diagram points to a picture of the pipe but calls it a hose.

Anybody have a Ford p/n for this bypass pipe? Anybody have any luck crafting a new one in the absence of replacement parts?

I have an e-mail in to Tousley Ford asking for assistance, but wanted to see what other Zetec'ers had done.

ps -- No JY and no Ford dealer immediately accessible to me.
 
Seeing as it is a BYPASS pipe, you might be able to get away with simply blocking it off. I haven't taken a good look at it to know if this is feasible or not, but this was a fix on the Vulcan to keep the heater core from clogging.
 
I saw that, but it has the same price as the hose, and one description even lists it as the hose but points to the pipe. I have an inquiry in with them.
 
I'm trying to figure out what bypass hose are you talking about? I don't see it in the illustration I linked at all.

According to the illustration in the link I posted, part #9 is the drain hose which goes from the top of the thermostat housing to the top of the coolant reservoir. Part #11 is a hose in which one end is connected to the heater core. I can't remember where the other end connected to. Take a look at the illustration again. Part #10 is the bypass pipe you're looking for. Look at it closely and you'll see a piece of metal hanging off the pipe. That piece of metal is welded to the pipe so that it can be bolted to the exhaust manifold. Of all the pipes and hoses in the illustration, this is the only pipe that's connects the coolant lower hose and the thermostat housing together and bolts to the exhaust manifold.
 
Lavell said:
I'm trying to figure out what bypass hose are you talking about? I don't see it in the illustration I linked at all.
Click to expand...

There is a hose at the end of the bypass pipe that connects to the lower thermostat outlet connection. It has different diamters at each end. Item #10 appears to be the right bypass pipe, and I've already gotten the hose connector. Here's the one, http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/par...070&callout=10&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0 which says "bypass pipe" in the diagram and then lists a "hose" when you click on it in the description. Same item, same photo.....different source. Compare the two side-by-side and you'll see my confusion.
 
I now see where you got confused. After looking at the diagram you linked, I got confused too. The diagram that I linked doesn't have this issue, although it's based on a 96 Contour.
 
You can use regular bulk heater hose once you solder up a copper part mixing different sizes on each end to replace the two step hose. Parts very cheap at Home Depot. I have replaced several specific sized double ended hoses on Tempo, Contour and Focus using this idea. It's ridiculous to pay outrageous prices for hoses that can be replaced with much cheaper bulk hose. I use automatic trans cooler hose to replace the smaller diameter hoses. It will take more pressure and temp than water hose will.
 
Thanks, I try not to get to the point of doing a MacGyver-fix unless the parts are unobtanium or ridiculously priced. As it turns out, Ford has the pipe and RockAuto has the hose quite cheap. Well worth it to keep it stock as long as possible.
 
'Well worth it to keep it stock as long as possible.'

???????????????????

If you wish to just throw money away that's fine. The automakers love people like you. Witness new oil standards (GM Dexos brand) coming into effect to make sure you buy your oil from vehicle maker instead of the local auto parts store. I however have found that doing what I do pays far more than virtually any job I can get out there now. My 30 years of $25/hour pay are over. Still, doing what I just spoke of made me $50 out of nowhere and my stuff is easily as dependable as yours. My mech abilities are apparently 10 times better than what's generally available out there since I never have to redo anything.

Uh, just ground epoxy out of a bad Focus voltage regulator to remove brushes and resoldered into known good regulator with bad worn brushes. 10 cents worth of solder to make equivalent of $175 part.............Contour uses same alt (small 6G) except for regulator type. Food for thought there.
 
amc49 said:
If you wish to just throw money away that's fine.
Click to expand...

That's a ridiculous statement. Yea, I've soldered in a new thermal fuse to my airbag ECU rather than buy a whole brand new unit, but the price differential between a $2 fuse and a $175 ECU is substantial. The price difference between $10 worth of hose and a $15 correct and proper pipe from TeamFord is not, and well worth doing it right. When it comes time to MacGuyver a fix in there, I can do it like anyone else. But when you take the time to do it right, and the parts are available and cheap, then doing it right is the best option. Anyone can do a cheapie fix, which makes ya wonder why most mechs drive beaters that they can barely keep running. Do it right the first time, or find time to do it again.

amc49 said:
My mech abilities are apparently 10 times better than what's generally available out there since I never have to redo anything.
Click to expand...

Good to see you're not too full of yourself ....
 
I'll be the first to say I'm fat headed. Because it's true. However, I have NEVER paid anyone to ever work on my stuff. My entire life. That's a real long stream of motorcycles and cars. I rebuild my own automatics, engines, suspensions, whatever the need. Mcguyver fixed for the moment, I do not waste the time unless it lasts forever. Otherwise the fix no good to me. You talk one hose, count how many on a Contour. Times $10 each. I purchase upper and lower radiator hoses only, also same good for my 2 Focus cars. 3 cars now, how much does that add up to? Plus 2 more Tempos, same thing. Cost difference is more than $5 per as you state.

I can assure you adding all that stuff up and more would run into the thousands of dollars, I have simply done way too much of it.

'well worth doing it right' seems to be hinged on one's belief of just what is 'right' here. I contend that since I do it very well and the outcome always is to my advantage, my 'right' works well. I assure you I do not drive cars that barely run or breakdown with regularity. In fact, my biggest problem is letting them go when they finally get so old I get tired of them. They are still usually in good enough shape I lament the loss.

One of the Mcguyver fixes involved a car damaged in accident to $5K damage estimate. I got it back on road for $600, and have driven it for the last 3 years now. Car still runs and drives perfect, no rattles at all. Only difference between that and the hose issue is one of scale.

Since I've gotten old and age discriminated against, it's all about making any cash I can out of thin air.

By the way, I fixed my Contour cracked plastic coolant reservoir several years back by carefully rewelding the plastic at the crack. Didn't want to pay the prevailing price of $80 back then. It still does not leak a drop............
 
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