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engine failure story, and duratec oil pump failure rate?

compudude86

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
414
Location
Algonquin, IL
Well, unfortunately, my engine has given up a few thousand miles before 200k. It ran low on oil one day, and I got the oil light popped on twice for a second during turns. I rushed and got oil in the car, but it was too late. A few days later, I did my oil change, and a few days after I got a very slight, barely noticeable rod knock, or what I've seen online referred to as the duratec "death rattle". On my way home 2 days later, it gave up, and started banging and squealing, and after cali-stopping two stop signs, got it home just in time for it to stall out in the driveway.

I wanted a 3L, but didn't have any available at my yard that I could use, so I had to settle, for now, on a used 2.5. I found one, the lowest miles (133k) and in the best shape I could find, for $260. this one had some minor oil on the pan and around the timing cover and main seal (guessing it is the early stages of gasket/seal breakdown), the others were completely soaked in oil, didn't want another time bomb in my car.

I got a new timing cover gasket set, oil pan gasket, and oil pressure sender (seems like these give and leak too, for $6 I'm throwing it in). Took the oil pan and valve cover off today, and it all looks good, timing components seem to be intact, there was some RTV bits in the pickup screen, and for the mileage and the timing being still tight, I'm thinking someone replaced the timing kit at some point but didn't swap out the seals. All the rods are tight, no wobble or movement on the connecting rod ends, turning it over by hand produces pressure from all cylinders gradually giving me more resistance, I get the slow hiss from the back of the pistons if I don't complete a cycle, so the rings are holding, and if I complete the rotation, I get the "thwoop" from the exhaust ports. Aside from the light orange varnish tint, it looks like a solid engine for a year or two service until I can get a 3L.

So, my question, is how often do the oil pumps fail on these? Id like to change it out now while I have it apart on a stand if these things tend to give out, just a bit more insurance, but if stock pumps are strong, ill keep it.
 
Oil pumps do not fail on these engines. The squeal was from the rod bearings spinning and welding themselves to the crank.

Rods fail from fatigue, that is basically the only flaw in the engine design.
 
that is what I figured, last time I disassembled one of these was in class, and that duratec was beat to the ground and sludged over, but the oil pump was still in great shape, I figured I would ask just to be safe.

I knew as soon as that thing started squealing like Ned Beatty the rush was on to get it home fast because that was it. It is the loudest most disheartening sound of all the metal surfaces grinding and banging themselves together and you hear it bouncing off all the houses as you go... Im just glad it made it to the driveway and it didnt happen far away or on the highway, but so far ive gotten lucky like that with this thing :)
 
A friend of mine had his SVT's oil pump fail at 50k miles, back around 2002 or 2003. That's the only time I've heard of it happening though.
 
well, I haven't gotten much done. On the engine going in, I have replaced the timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and front main seal, all gasket sets bought were labeled as "improved design", so that should help. I have had single digit temps the past few days, and dont want to snap anything, so I have been pretty limited.

I cleaned out the LIM, I optimized and polished my throttle body, I was considering removing the front half of the bar, but decided to keep it, as I live in the upper midwest, and I could see the rod snapping in extreme temps when the throttle snaps shut, so I just shaved it down a bit on both sides, threw a thin coat of spraypaint on the rod to cover the exposed steel, used countersunk screws, put them in, cut the excess threads off the back, took them out, red threadlocked them, and put them in and torqued them a bit. today I tried moving them, and they aren't coming out.

I'm thinking about maybe pulling the old motor tomorrow morning, and picking off the parts I need to switch over, and I will be gutting my precats, I was thinking about using the o2 sensor hole on the front cat to bust out the crap with a bucket handle and drill, maybe get a spark plug non-fouler or other similar threaded piece to protect my threads. if that fails, I'll drill the hole in the elbow and weld it up.
 
Finally, weather has cooperated enough to get something done. Gutted the precats, had to drill a small hole in the 90 on the front one, and between the bucket handle on the drill and the hammering on the outside, got them busted out, then used the shop vac to get any remaining dust out. Snapped the passenger axle trying to remove the seized axle nut (two guys and a monkey wrench on the outside of an impact socket was what we finally came down to, nothing else worked). Found out that my lower O2 sensor on the front had the ceramic cracked and rattled during my de-precatting. So I ordered a new O2 sensor, passnger half-shaft, and water pump belt. Then today, got the new engine in. Ended up breaking the speed sensor off. FML. Autozone wanted $50, rockauto $26 shipped. Ordered another speed sensor. Hopefully nothing else breaks. Getting closer to having a running 'tour.
 
It runs! gutted precats, optimized and polished throttle body, 19lb injectors, with the already installed cold air intake (short ram) and 2.5" catback, high-flow cat, turbo mufflers and glasspack resonator. I think I have the tune figured out finally (ran too rich on base tune) and it hauls ass when it is asked to. now to figure out why my cruise control doesn't work and why my PATS light flashes when first started, and I am good...
 
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