KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
ok, this is undoubtedly going to turn into a flame fest, so lets start with a basic explanation of what the EGR system actually does:
ok, so now that we dont think the point is to simply "reburn" exhaust to clean it up more, we can get to how to get it to work on our 3.0's (if you'd like to keep it now)
I read a lot of stuff on people trying to keep their EGR with terrible results. it seems the taurus DPFE will throw a code, so you need to swap over the aluminum contour one, like this:
then, we're going to cut both the contour egr pipe and the tarusa egr pipe almost exactly in the middle, in the straight upright section, then cut a piece of straight scrap EGR tubing to about 3 inches, then cut a 1/4" slot down one side of it, and roll it down to fit the ID of the egr pipe with channel locks. grind the ridge from the overlap down. remember to slide both egr pipes heat wraps on. then tap it into both egr pipes like this:
now, align the two pieces very close to perfectly, then weld the joint, like this (well hopefully better ) :
now slide the covers over so they overlap. I also wrapped then to the pipe with some copper wire I have laying around, just to keep them from moving around and exposing the hot pipe to plastics.
now bolt that mofo on and feel all cool for doing something different
wikipedia said:EGR in spark-ignited engines
In a typical automotive spark-ignited (SI) engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR. The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in an SI engine can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions. A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:
It also decreases the efficiency of gasoline engines via at least one more mechanism:
- Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
- Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
- Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is minor compared to the first two.
EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle.
- Reduced specific heat ratio. A lean intake charge has a higher specific heat ratio than an EGR mixture. A reduction of specific heat ratio reduces the amount of energy that can be extracted by the piston.
FULL ARTICLE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EGR
ok, so now that we dont think the point is to simply "reburn" exhaust to clean it up more, we can get to how to get it to work on our 3.0's (if you'd like to keep it now)
I read a lot of stuff on people trying to keep their EGR with terrible results. it seems the taurus DPFE will throw a code, so you need to swap over the aluminum contour one, like this:
then, we're going to cut both the contour egr pipe and the tarusa egr pipe almost exactly in the middle, in the straight upright section, then cut a piece of straight scrap EGR tubing to about 3 inches, then cut a 1/4" slot down one side of it, and roll it down to fit the ID of the egr pipe with channel locks. grind the ridge from the overlap down. remember to slide both egr pipes heat wraps on. then tap it into both egr pipes like this:
now, align the two pieces very close to perfectly, then weld the joint, like this (well hopefully better ) :
now slide the covers over so they overlap. I also wrapped then to the pipe with some copper wire I have laying around, just to keep them from moving around and exposing the hot pipe to plastics.
now bolt that mofo on and feel all cool for doing something different