• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

E0 '98 SVT cranks no start security light flashes fast.

RUN-NE1

New CEG'er
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
10
Location
Kansas City, MO
the car is a early '98 SVT. It use to be the car wouldn't intermittently start security light would flash fast and had the car once die going down the road and make the light on the dash flash.

***Car will always crank light flashing has no affect on it***

Then the car started acting up more often and right now the car takes forever to start. Here is the procedure...... I get in the car turn the key on<security light flashing fast> wait 1 minute til light starts flashing slower then I have to turn key off then back on and crank and car will start until the last week I would have to do this several times til it would start.

I have 2 real Ford keys probably original and old if that matters and yes at one point they were on the same key ring and 6 months ago separated them.

And occasionally the car will die like I shut the key off and the tach goes to zero and no lights I have played with it and there is only 1 key on the ring. And I think the ignition switch is bad similar common problem on Honda's I can actually just return the key forward again and it runs. I have read enough on here to know that isnt related to the Pats system.....of course

So it sounds like I am fighting 2 problems. Any help would be nice.

Is there anyway to check codes on the system? I did call a key shop and they have a key/code reader for the security system and offered it for $50 and they would take a look at it.

Thanks
 
Loose wiring it seems like to me. I'd let the car run and wiggle everything in the engine bay to try to find if you can get it to stall.
 
Loose wiring it seems like to me. I'd let the car run and wiggle everything in the engine bay to try to find if you can get it to stall.

I dont think its that it just doesnt want to start but if I can get it to after the security light stops flashing then I can drive it. It hasnt died going down the road in 2 years that wasnt ignition switch related.
 
I dont think its that it just doesnt want to start but if I can get it to after the security light stops flashing then I can drive it. It hasnt died going down the road in 2 years that wasnt ignition switch related.

if i were you, i wouldnt doubt a member on here with almost 27,000 posts. i was thinking the same thing when i read your issue. early 98's are notorious for cracking insulation on the wires. your problem is intermittant because a wire might not always be shorted out.
 
if i were you, i wouldnt doubt a member on here with almost 27,000 posts. i was thinking the same thing when i read your issue. early 98's are notorious for cracking insulation on the wires. your problem is intermittant because a wire might not always be shorted out.


kinda makes you wonder, what kind of lunatic has 7+ posts per day on a contour website? :laugh:
 
Loose wiring it seems like to me. I'd let the car run and wiggle everything in the engine bay to try to find if you can get it to stall.

Not trying to be argumentative just expected a response of normal broke stuff key sensor or Pats module.

This will cause the security light to flash before you start the car? If so it must be a very few limited things that can cause that. I'm not worried about the stalling while driving issue <then the security light started flashing and wouldn't restart>it hasnt done it in 2 years and only did it once.

Right now I am just after getting the car to start it cranks over now but security light is flashing fast. Its just a Pats issue unless I am missing something.

FYI just to let you know i am ASE master tech L1 certified.

Thanks
 
the car is a early '98 SVT. It use to be the car wouldn't intermittently start security light would flash fast.

***Car will always crank even if the security light is flashing ***

Then the car started acting up more often and right now the car takes forever to start. Here is the procedure...... I get in the car turn the key on<security light flashing fast> wait 1 minute til light starts flashing slower then I have to turn key off then back on and crank and car will start until the last week I would have to do this several times til it would start.

I have 2 real Ford keys probably original and old if that matters and yes at one point they were on the same key ring and 6 months ago separated them.

Is there anyway to check codes on the system?

Thanks


Filtered and thinned just trying to fix this problem.
 
Im having the same problem with mine however no communication when scan tool is hooked up and it never starts. Fuel pump doesnt kick on but its definitely electrical related. Will crank forever but no start.
 
Im having the same problem with mine however no communication when scan tool is hooked up and it never starts. Fuel pump doesnt kick on but its definitely electrical related. Will crank forever but no start.
Does the CEL light come on when you turn the ignition to on? If it doesn't, check Fuse 1. Then check wiring below Fuse 1.
 
Check all fuses, check as much wiring as you can etc... Worst case scenario you can swap the E1 harness into an E0. There is a how-to on it IIRC. A little drastic but honestly you'll probably spend more time chasing down a gremlin wire in an E0 harness than just ripping the whole thing out and changing it. There was a factory recall on the E0 harnesses but I don't think it is valid anymore.
 
Ok so go to a lock and key place that does good work. Checked it with a Star scanner.

Has code for No communication between Pats and ECC.

They looked it over and don't think its the keys and have never ran across this problem before. :shrug:
 
Ok so go to a lock and key place that does good work. Checked it with a Star scanner.

Has code for No communication between Pats and ECC.

They looked it over and don't think its the keys and have never ran across this problem before. :shrug:

What were the actual DTCs they pulled?

Early 98s (non-SVT) used an early version of PATS that had an additional module for PATS that was between the keyring transceiver and the PCM. Later versions integrated the PATS module into the PCM. I do not know which version the SVT got, perhaps someone can clarify.

If your car has the separate PATS module, check BJB fuse F12 and CJB fuse 30.
 
the early 98's got the pats with the external module, ie PCM code RJL1. all other have pats integrated, which should be 98.5 and newer.
 
the early 98's got the pats with the external module, ie PCM code RJL1. all other have pats integrated, which should be 98.5 and newer.

I'm SVT deficient - just haven't paid attention to them.

Does that mean the SVTs have the PATS integrated into the PCM?
 
I'm SVT deficient - just haven't paid attention to them.

Does that mean the SVTs have the PATS integrated into the PCM?


the early SVTs, ie 98's, ie E0 SVTs have the external type 1 PATs system. Where as the E1 or 98.5+ SVT, and contours have the new Type 4 (iirc) PATs system which is built into the PCM.
 
What were the actual DTCs they pulled?

Early 98s (non-SVT) used an early version of PATS that had an additional module for PATS that was between the keyring transceiver and the PCM. Later versions integrated the PATS module into the PCM. I do not know which version the SVT got, perhaps someone can clarify.

If your car has the separate PATS module, check BJB fuse F12 and CJB fuse 30.

I didnt actually get the code number and yes early Pats system 2 piece system. I need to drop the bottom side of the column and see what I am working with someone said that Ford discontinued the Pats module so only salvage yard.

Its just weird so intermitten about every other time I start it it wont start I have to wait a minute then can usually start if not wait another minute then will start.
 
Thanks BrApple!

If you have to replace the external PATS module, the system will need to be re-programmed with the appropriate NGS or comparable system since the key's codes are stored in that module.
 
Back
Top