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Dropping rear subframe

C

captastic

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
239
Any tips Do's / Don'ts on dropping the rear subframe?

I'm replacing both rear control arms, and hoping to accomplish the poli-bush upgrade in my trailing arms.

TIA
 
Don't break any of the subframe bolts off.
And definitely run a thread chaser through the bolt holes before you re-install. There was a lot of corrosion left in the threads on mine.
 
Pretty simple to drop the rear subframe on these cars.

Either remove the catback completley or if the car is high enough in the air you can just pull it off the hangers and let it hang down. Next unbolt the control arms off the knuckle. Remove the 4 bolts from the subframe to the chassis and drop the subframe with the control arms and swaybar intact.
 
Trying to remember... do you really need to drop the subframe to remove the control arms? I thought there was enough access to get to those bolts through the windows. Granted it's not easy... but I thought it was do-able.

assembledfront.jpg


Underside for reference...

ati4c.jpg
 
Last edited:
CSVT#49 said:
Trying to remember... do you really need to drop the subframe to remove the control arms? I thought there was enough access to get to those bolts through the windows. Granted it's not easy... but I thought it was do-able.
Click to expand...
It's not doable. Well, you probably could if you dropped the tank, but that's more effort than the subframe.
 
I raised this question earlier this year, as I wanted to swap out my control arms for boxed ones. The bolt needs to slide out towards the tank, but the tank is in the way. The response was to either dropped the subframe or the tank.

I asked the question if one could use a saws-all and cut the head off the bolt and pull the remainder out towards the back of the car through the window. Then using new hardware flip the bolt by inserting through the window and putting the nut on the tank side. From the lack of response I dont think anyone had done it this way.

I still havent got around at a second attempt. Dropping the subframe turned me off with such little time I have these days. I might just cut the bolts out and see where it takes me.
 
TourEnvy said:
I raised this question earlier this year, as I wanted to swap out my control arms for boxed ones. The bolt needs to slide out towards the tank, but the tank is in the way. The response was to either dropped the subframe or the tank.

I asked the question if one could use a saws-all and cut the head off the bolt and pull the remainder out towards the back of the car through the window. Then using new hardware flip the bolt by inserting through the window and putting the nut on the tank side. From the lack of response I dont think anyone had done it this way.

I still havent got around at a second attempt. Dropping the subframe turned me off with such little time I have these days. I might just cut the bolts out and see where it takes me.
Click to expand...

I think that's where I'm at as well. In fact I'm gonna pick up some blades tomorrow...
 
I was unable to remove my sway bar (did upgrade from 16mm to 18mm) w/o dropping my rear crossmember. I know others told me I could snake it out, but that was not my experience, even with both rear spindles and struts removed from the vehicle. I did discover that my '95 Zetec 'Tours' 16mm bar had a very unique "bend" in it - much more pronounced that the '98.5 18mm SVT bar that I installed. Of course this "bend" is unable to be seen until one drops the rear crossmember.
btw - consider the fact that the rear suspension geometry will be affected by the R&R of the rear crossmember. Some claim that 15mm deep sockets will work in place of the factor Ford alignment pins that fit into the two large holes in the rear crossmember, passing into the holes in the chassis. I got around this by scribing 4 points of reference in order to allow me to realign the crossmember upon reinstallation. Alignment shop said that all was well and within specs.
 
TourEnvy you don't even have to fight rust! It will be cake walk for you.

It is not hard. I did it while dropping the rear struts springs with it, and trailing arms. (not recommended if doing it alone, berry heavy) 2 floor jacks after breaking the bolts loose, then slowly bring down the whole assembly.
 
I know, I know. I shouldn't put it off. Believe me, the whole no rust thing has been a godsend for doing so much R&R on this thing. The wagon is from CA, which is even better. I havent used anything but a 15" breaker and a dead blow on anyone of the cars. The SVT did have a few NY years when I first got it (1 winter from PO), the exhaust bolts and welds are the worst of it. The nuts look like acorns they were so deteriorated, but still accepted a socket and turned. It was an unbelievable moment during my y-pipe install.

Just got to suck it up!
 
Exhaust bolt rust? Lol. If you take your car to a exhaust shop here they wont even touch it with a wrench. Cut it don't even try.
 
i just swapped out a rouch bar for an aussie bar. dropped the subframe, left the exhaust attached. i was able to get the old out, and the new in with a bit of manuvering. probably took me 1.5 hrs start to finish
 
thats the only thing that i havent had apart a lot too. impact wrenches and big breakers bars do wonders
 
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