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Dialing in factory alignment specs
- Thread starter LauraSVT
- Start date
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
The Camber Kits that BAT sells are made by Specialty Products and are readily available.
They only function on the fronts. The rear have a very different design. I had excessive negative camber from the factory that could not be resolved until the kits were available. The tires wear nice and even now.
They only function on the fronts. The rear have a very different design. I had excessive negative camber from the factory that could not be resolved until the kits were available. The tires wear nice and even now.
The Camber Kits that BAT sells are made by Specialty Products and are readily available.
They only function on the fronts. The rear have a very different design. I had excessive negative camber from the factory that could not be resolved until the kits were available. The tires wear nice and even now.
Thanks, Jim. Best to do it direct through BAT? It's $150 for both sides.
As for the rear -- I don't recall that there's an adjustment back there, either. Will traditional thrust-angle alignment cut the mustard on those wheels?
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
Rear toe is adjustable, and how they relate to the front is the thrust angle.
This is how I have it done on my car.
Install the front camber kits. Requires pulling down the front struts. Adjust the fronts to a rough adjustment.
Go to the rear and confirm that the camber is livable (not knocked out from collision damage and/or bent parts). Set the rear toe. I like the rear to be as close to 0 as possible while still being slightly toed in. Check the thrust angle, and tinker with balancing the rear toe adjustment to keep the toe where it belongs while bringing the thrust angle to 0. The closer to 0 the better, and with a little attention you can get it to 0.
Then move to the front. To adjust the front caster and camber, you will need to raise the wheel being adjusted. Instructions are with the camber kits.
Determine ahead of time where you want the camber. The closer to 0 the more even the tire wear. The more the negative camber, the better the car handles. You probably want it under .7, although some say they are OK with tire wear with it close to max spec (1.3 IIRC). For me, the 1.3 was way too much. I have mine slightly negative but close to 0.
When you change the camber, the caster will change too. Basically, you have a choice of negative caster or positive caster. With power steering, you don't need negative caster. Negative caster is easier to steer, and positive caster provides better steering wheel returnability after turns. Don't worry about too much positive caster. There isn't enough adjustment to get you into trouble.
On a flat road (they don't exist), if caster and camber are even on both sides with a 0 thrust angle, the car will go straight down the road. Due to road crown, you need a very slight lead on the right wheel. You can do that with a little up to .5 more positive caster or with about .25 more negative camber, or a slight mix of both. You alignment guy should know what to do. If you can't get the cross camber and cross caster (the relationship between right and left side) where it belongs, you may need to shift the subframe.
End up by setting the front toe. The right to left front toe needs to be even. I prefer it to be as close to 0 as possible while still being slightly toed out (the opposite of the rear).
Since all the readings are somewhat related, confirm that all is where it should be before removing the car from the alignment rack.
Road test and confirm that it handles as it should.
This is how I have it done on my car.
Install the front camber kits. Requires pulling down the front struts. Adjust the fronts to a rough adjustment.
Go to the rear and confirm that the camber is livable (not knocked out from collision damage and/or bent parts). Set the rear toe. I like the rear to be as close to 0 as possible while still being slightly toed in. Check the thrust angle, and tinker with balancing the rear toe adjustment to keep the toe where it belongs while bringing the thrust angle to 0. The closer to 0 the better, and with a little attention you can get it to 0.
Then move to the front. To adjust the front caster and camber, you will need to raise the wheel being adjusted. Instructions are with the camber kits.
Determine ahead of time where you want the camber. The closer to 0 the more even the tire wear. The more the negative camber, the better the car handles. You probably want it under .7, although some say they are OK with tire wear with it close to max spec (1.3 IIRC). For me, the 1.3 was way too much. I have mine slightly negative but close to 0.
When you change the camber, the caster will change too. Basically, you have a choice of negative caster or positive caster. With power steering, you don't need negative caster. Negative caster is easier to steer, and positive caster provides better steering wheel returnability after turns. Don't worry about too much positive caster. There isn't enough adjustment to get you into trouble.
On a flat road (they don't exist), if caster and camber are even on both sides with a 0 thrust angle, the car will go straight down the road. Due to road crown, you need a very slight lead on the right wheel. You can do that with a little up to .5 more positive caster or with about .25 more negative camber, or a slight mix of both. You alignment guy should know what to do. If you can't get the cross camber and cross caster (the relationship between right and left side) where it belongs, you may need to shift the subframe.
End up by setting the front toe. The right to left front toe needs to be even. I prefer it to be as close to 0 as possible while still being slightly toed out (the opposite of the rear).
Since all the readings are somewhat related, confirm that all is where it should be before removing the car from the alignment rack.
Road test and confirm that it handles as it should.
fcsvt1
CEG'er
Hey Jim, Since you seem to know your stuff about alignments, should I just take it into a shop to have the adjustment done, or would it be a good idea to learn how to on my own?
I'm getting the caster/camber kits for my svt and I'm a little worried about getting everything right. But I'm a little more worried about someone I don't know getting it right.
Basically should I take the time to gain more knowledge on the subject or just let someone I don't know deal with it?
I'm getting the caster/camber kits for my svt and I'm a little worried about getting everything right. But I'm a little more worried about someone I don't know getting it right.
Basically should I take the time to gain more knowledge on the subject or just let someone I don't know deal with it?
Um, to do it right, you have to have a special rack and wheel mounted alignment equipment, which often use lasers. I've used the tape measure process after replacing a tie-rod, but still went and had it aligned.
-Andy
-Andy
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
The camber kits come with instructions on both how to install them and how to make the adjustments. Unless you have a lot of knowledge and experience on the subject, you will not be able to do the alignment without an alignment rack, and even if you could, it probably would not be anything near optimal.
Yes, study about it, but take it to a shop for the alignment. If you do the install at home, try to eyeball the caster and camber setting, set the toe with a tape measure, and carefully drive it to a shop to do the alignment.
Yes, study about it, but take it to a shop for the alignment. If you do the install at home, try to eyeball the caster and camber setting, set the toe with a tape measure, and carefully drive it to a shop to do the alignment.
fcsvt1
CEG'er
Thanks for the info. I remember now what it takes to do it right. In high school we had all the right equipment so I could do it myself. I guess I will just get it close enough on my own and take it somewhere to have it finished.
I just get paranoid about people touching my car! It seems like at least half the time my lug nuts aren't torqed correctly after I leave a shop. If they can't put on a lug nut, how are they going to get an alignment right?
I just get paranoid about people touching my car! It seems like at least half the time my lug nuts aren't torqed correctly after I leave a shop. If they can't put on a lug nut, how are they going to get an alignment right?