Volcano~SVT
New CEG'er
So about 5 months ago I bought a 2000 Contour SVT. 94k Miles from Florida. Pretty much rust free. Had a lifter tick as it idles down all the time and a second sound I couldn't place at the time when I bought it. I got it neways thinking it was just anther lifter. Nah, not the case. Spun a rod bearing on the way home. Fun night.
Anyways I ended up doing nearly a full rebuild on the engine. Pulled it out cleaned it up replaced all the normal. Had the crank ground and replaced all the bearing main and rod. So put it back together with an Alum Flywheel, Stage 3 F1 clutch/Pressure Plate/Slave, MSD Headers.
The first start took forever and after the first start I ranged the rpm never exceeding 3.5k for 3 20 periods after I solved an initial overheating problem (Had to prime the cooling system with no thermostat first). Pre start I bleed the clutch about 25-30 times from the slave to make sure there was no air in it but didn't touch the brake system the whole time. So after the 3 idle rounds to break in the rods and mains a bit I then took it for a short spin under low load. I noticed the throw out bearing sounded like the ty one on my 200k cougar 2.5 5 speed. Just thought it would work in or something.
So after an anther week or so to title then started the break in. I broke in for about 500 miles very low load never over 3500. The day after the 500 miles I took it out and did a few pulls to make sure rings were sent and to then break in slight load again. Ever since the pulls I have huge issues with break fluid just vanishing. I have looked all over the engine bay. Followed ever break line and ever caliper in search of a leak. NOTHING. I have noticed nothing under the engine or nothing coming out of the bell housing. It is getting more and more severe and I’m not sure where it is.
My first thought is the Slave/TOB, for obvious reason. But if it is that I would assume that the fluid would have to be leaking out the bell housing. I lose about half the reservoir over night. And about the same for a 15-25 minute city trip. The clutch has never seemed to grab very well since day one and the pedal is overwhelmingly soft and at the top. Which I thought was common for this hydraulic system. Yet on my cougar it is much harder and at the bottom.
Installation of the slave was slightly botched from the start. I just slapped it in and bleed it before starting. Haynes Manuel made no mention of the anaerobic sealant I later learned I needed and saw some on the back of my old slave after more inspection.
I could really use some more technical Info on the slave cylinder. Will it leak brake fluid or trans fluid with that sealant not on there? Was not bleeding the breaks a contributing factor to the TOB Failure or was it also the lack of sealant? Is there any special Clutch break in procedures I should have followed? From the first move it made it seemed to make Terrible contact and slipped a bit. The breaks were full of absolutely the worst looking break fluid I have EVER seen. Came out as a gel in the rear.
Any clear technical Information so I could diagnose the break fluid myself would be nice. I would really like to know more about the workings of our hydraulic system for future reference on other rebuilds.
Thanks,
Ricky
BTW I have searched the forums for the past week and found no similar posts with a clear answer for me to feel that a trans drop is in order.(Which I’m almost 100% already sure I will need to neways for the TOB itself.)
Anyways I ended up doing nearly a full rebuild on the engine. Pulled it out cleaned it up replaced all the normal. Had the crank ground and replaced all the bearing main and rod. So put it back together with an Alum Flywheel, Stage 3 F1 clutch/Pressure Plate/Slave, MSD Headers.
The first start took forever and after the first start I ranged the rpm never exceeding 3.5k for 3 20 periods after I solved an initial overheating problem (Had to prime the cooling system with no thermostat first). Pre start I bleed the clutch about 25-30 times from the slave to make sure there was no air in it but didn't touch the brake system the whole time. So after the 3 idle rounds to break in the rods and mains a bit I then took it for a short spin under low load. I noticed the throw out bearing sounded like the ty one on my 200k cougar 2.5 5 speed. Just thought it would work in or something.
So after an anther week or so to title then started the break in. I broke in for about 500 miles very low load never over 3500. The day after the 500 miles I took it out and did a few pulls to make sure rings were sent and to then break in slight load again. Ever since the pulls I have huge issues with break fluid just vanishing. I have looked all over the engine bay. Followed ever break line and ever caliper in search of a leak. NOTHING. I have noticed nothing under the engine or nothing coming out of the bell housing. It is getting more and more severe and I’m not sure where it is.
My first thought is the Slave/TOB, for obvious reason. But if it is that I would assume that the fluid would have to be leaking out the bell housing. I lose about half the reservoir over night. And about the same for a 15-25 minute city trip. The clutch has never seemed to grab very well since day one and the pedal is overwhelmingly soft and at the top. Which I thought was common for this hydraulic system. Yet on my cougar it is much harder and at the bottom.
Installation of the slave was slightly botched from the start. I just slapped it in and bleed it before starting. Haynes Manuel made no mention of the anaerobic sealant I later learned I needed and saw some on the back of my old slave after more inspection.
I could really use some more technical Info on the slave cylinder. Will it leak brake fluid or trans fluid with that sealant not on there? Was not bleeding the breaks a contributing factor to the TOB Failure or was it also the lack of sealant? Is there any special Clutch break in procedures I should have followed? From the first move it made it seemed to make Terrible contact and slipped a bit. The breaks were full of absolutely the worst looking break fluid I have EVER seen. Came out as a gel in the rear.
Any clear technical Information so I could diagnose the break fluid myself would be nice. I would really like to know more about the workings of our hydraulic system for future reference on other rebuilds.
Thanks,
Ricky
BTW I have searched the forums for the past week and found no similar posts with a clear answer for me to feel that a trans drop is in order.(Which I’m almost 100% already sure I will need to neways for the TOB itself.)