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CHEAP good little amps for rear deck subs.

C

CarpePoon

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
Messages
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Location
Grand Blanc, MI
I saw these before...
but i dont have any use for it...
100 watts into 1 ohm...
when do you have a 1 ohm load... in any sub i guess a 2 ohm dual voice coil sub but when would you want only 100 watts...
and it's a class D so you're not really gonna get any speakers on it...
it also uses high level inputs not rca stuff...

idk kinda pointless little thing to me

if you dont have a system.. i guess it would add some bass though 100 watts isnt nothing
 
100w at 1 ohm, 150hz low pass, no line levels.....It might be a nice product its lacking a few features most audiophiles would want.
 
98Mystique2 said:
I saw these before...
but i dont have any use for it...
100 watts into 1 ohm...
when do you have a 1 ohm load... in any sub i guess a 2 ohm dual voice coil sub but when would you want only 100 watts...
and it's a class D so you're not really gonna get any speakers on it...
it also uses high level inputs not rca stuff...

idk kinda pointless little thing to me

if you dont have a system.. i guess it would add some bass though 100 watts isnt nothing
Click to expand...

Oh, young grasshopper, you have much to learn. Clearly I did not post this aimed at those looking to anoy the neighbors. A rear deck sub is a great way to fill in the bass that Ford epically failed at putting into the contour.

1) you dont have to wire at 1 ohm, its saying its 1ohm stable. Obviously if you put more load on it you'll get less watts.
2) dual 2ohm subs are not that hard to find.
3) related to above, if you use a rear deck sub you don't want much power going to it. 100w is more than enough for a free air setup.
4) A rear deck sub will only fill in the bass, it won't overpower the sound that your door speakers are able to produce.
 
CarpePoon said:
Oh, young grasshopper, you have much to learn. Clearly I did not post this aimed at those looking to anoy the neighbors. A rear deck sub is a great way to fill in the bass that Ford epically failed at putting into the contour.

1) you dont have to wire at 1 ohm, its saying its 1ohm stable. Obviously if you put more load on it you'll get less watts.
2) dual 2ohm subs are not that hard to find.
3) related to above, if you use a rear deck sub you don't want much power going to it. 100w is more than enough for a free air setup.
4) A rear deck sub will only fill in the bass, it won't overpower the sound that your door speakers are able to produce.
Click to expand...

Thanks, you just saved me the time of having to type a response. Hard to even visit the audio section these days because of all the ridiculous posts & info that gets posted.... Maybe I'm just old and remember the good ol' days when there was some serious knowledge being thrown around in here! Btw, great post on a nice find. That's definitely a good low cost option that could work very well for certain folks who appreciate a SQ setup.
 
Pienstars said:
Thanks, you just saved me the time of having to type a response. Hard to even visit the audio section these days because of all the ridiculous posts & info that gets posted.... Maybe I'm just old and remember the good ol' days when there was some serious knowledge being thrown around in here! Btw, great post on a nice find. That's definitely a good low cost option that could work very well for certain folks who appreciate a SQ setup.
Click to expand...

Ok question then... For a SQ setup dont you NOT want a class D amplifier... I mean granted i guess it can be done but generally I dont know with this one or weather it's the sub choices my friends have but their "hifonics brutus" amp for the subs sounds noticeably different compared to my Class AB Rockfordfosgate amp.
 
98Mystique2 said:
Ok question then... For a SQ setup dont you NOT want a class D amplifier... I mean granted i guess it can be done but generally I dont know with this one or weather it's the sub choices my friends have but their "hifonics brutus" amp for the subs sounds noticeably different compared to my Class AB Rockfordfosgate amp.
Click to expand...


The hifonics brutus line utilizes all D class circuitry. A D class amp is almost always going to be more efficient than an AB class amp. This means it will make better use of the available power on tap aka putting out more watts (rms of course) which could be the "difference" that you heard. The subs, vehicle and sub enclosure will make more of a noticeable difference between 2 different setups rather than just different amp classes. And when comparing systems, IMO its best to use the same vehicle because different vehicles have different acoustics from varying cabin space, sound deadening and interior composition.

I have had both AB class and D class monoblocks running ported and sealed enclosures and I could never tell a difference in sq between the 2. I'm more of an SPL guy :D ....... maybe an ocilloscope would detect something.

99mystiqueATX did recently talk about differences in sq between class AB and D at halfway down pg3 of the amp install location thread:

http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?64661-Amp-install-location./page3
 
he's got a contour svt... so same car.... but yeah I'm an EE major so i know about the different types of amplifiers... 99mystique did a pretty good job explaining everything i actually saw that after i posted here talking about that.

you never see high end (i shouldnt say that... you ALMOST never see) high end home audio equipment have class D amplifiers...
The class D you get better efficiency so you can have a smaller cheaper power supply which is a big concern when you're running off a 14 v source....
 
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