Changing, Removal, Installation of Alternator

[ZeroHour]

My alternator is dead, and putting the car into the garage this morning.

Manual says to drop the Y-pipe. Fact or fiction?

If I have a pull the tie road and drop the Y-pipe, this is going to become a very long day. :blackeye:

Edit:

Just adding FYI details, I've noticed a few post where there's no reference to what year/make/engine are referenced. So reading back on old posts becomes less useful without the details!
Car: 1998 Non-SVT Duratec, automatic trans
Steps: Disconnect battery, Raise and secure on jack stands,, remove front passenger side wheel., remove splash shield from inner fender, remove drive belt (might want to do this before lifting vehicle), disconnect outer tie rod from steering knuckle, Unbolt Y-pipe from exhaust manifolds (step in question) , disconnect alternator, remove rear support bracket bolt from the cylinder block, remove upper and lower mounting bolts, remove alternator, install new alternator in reverse order.

 

[BrApple]

No the y-pipe doesn't have to be removed. It would make it easier however.

 

[ZeroHour]

Thanks BrApple. Since I don't have headers, the bolts on my Y-pipe are 13 years used and I really doubt the bolts would come off without snapping...which means I'd need to knock out (most likely drill out) the hold bolts from the factory headers and this would end up being a 15 hour mess!

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

leave the y pipe in. it doesnt need to be removed. csvt#49's how to gives a good list of tools and angles to get to the bolts with.

 

[ContourGuy9817]

i get the top bolt with a stubby 13mm wrench however lately iv been using a double swivel and a 13mm and 12-18" of extension and just havin at it with an impact from underneath. fawq it! its not bad!

 

[ZeroHour]

First post..7am...almost 7pm...so far managed to take out the splash cars, remove the belt, and put the car in the air...not doing too well today.

 

[tsSVT]

It's pretty easy to do if you go at it from the top with an air ratchet. If you go that way you have to remove the coilpack and unbolt the wiring harness from the rear valve cover.

 

[svtfixer]

viewing it fro the top will help but is not nessecary. might help with a sense of location and maybe reinstalltion. i have found that a foot long extension and a maybe 3 inch extension give the right length to go in parallel to the axel and wiggle your way close to the alternator. your ratchet will be somewhere in the middle of the car and even tho it kills a little torque you can get the right vantage point to get it right in there. try combinations of extensions the wobbly end and also a deep socket may help give you more of an angle when youre close to the bolts.

 

[ZeroHour]

So got the bolts out...I ended up torching the ends (propane). Could not get them to come free without heat. My little air gun could muster it.

Old alternator is out, housing has a crack (not sure if that is related or not to the failure).

New alternator is back in, the "y" points are back in the block bracket. Lower bolt is back in; not threaded, but through the smooth part. I Can't seem to reach the upper bolt location while holding the bolt. I thought about taping the bolt to the U-joint and extension. Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

[Beans]

Stuff like that i sometimes wrap the bolt or whatever i need to hold in masking tape or electrical tape to make it thicker. That way its almost impossible for it to fall off until its tight.