over_30k
CEG'er
Well, replacing my brake lines for the back I ran into a problem. The job itself is not that difficult apart from dropping the tank and trying to route to ABS master. lol. I could have went to a shop but they normally do a patch job going around rear cross-member with lines exposed. Whilst this is acceptable it is half ass job to save on time removing a tank. Well, this is not my problem. Normally when I do this kind of work I mark down which line goes where. This time I guess I got overwhelmed with removal of the old lines and forgot to mark how these where connected to the RL and RR wheel and ABS master. Not to mention that they were so rusted that they fell apart. I know it’s 2 circuit system so it works FL + RR and FR + RL (like an X). I would like to keep it that way. Ford manuals and Hynes Is very vague on how it is routed no real diagrams. I did bend them to proper shape to follow the contours of the brake line clips so that is no the issue.
Any suggestions on how to check if I have these connected properly? There is a union in the area where the tank is going to be so I can swap them if needed. Just don’t want to put the tank back in and find out that my car is braking both left and right wheels in line and not in X.
Oh, BTW the flares on our cars are metric bubble/SAE style. So unless you have a metric flaring tool go to a shop or rent one. Or do it with prefabricated lines and unions if you keep it under 3 unions per line, avoid using compression fittings.
Any suggestions on how to check if I have these connected properly? There is a union in the area where the tank is going to be so I can swap them if needed. Just don’t want to put the tank back in and find out that my car is braking both left and right wheels in line and not in X.
Oh, BTW the flares on our cars are metric bubble/SAE style. So unless you have a metric flaring tool go to a shop or rent one. Or do it with prefabricated lines and unions if you keep it under 3 unions per line, avoid using compression fittings.