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Brake Booster Line

DocStruthers

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Messages
864
mine borke and I am trying to fix it with JB Weld but I would like to replace it with a new one.
It is a straight line from the top of the manifold to the back then over to the booster.

Also, IF it wasn't connected would the car run funny or not start even?

Thanks peoplez! :)
 
it would be a large vacuum leak so it might not even run. even if it did you wouldnt want to drive it anywhere since you would have no brake assist (power brakes).
 
yeah, but have you ever actually tried to stop a Contour without power assist. I have while going downhill when i blew up the engine. its not fun.

the only place to find a new line is going to be ford. you could get a used one from a JY or someone parting their car out.
 
oh no. you've had first hand experience?
I've never had to stop a contour but I had a 1970 F100 with manual brakes and a
toyota pickup with a mustang 5.0 V8 with manual brakes. I know it's tough but yea.

I figured dealer or JY for the part but wanted to see what else may be available.

thanks for the responses
 
I would just got buy some rubber vac line that the plastic line will slide into and make a coupler at least while you look for a new solid line.
 
i just jb weld it and electric tape the hell out of it. Works just great. And I drove it around to see how hard the brakes are if the line did fail and . . . cake
 
I'm afraid I can't leave this one alone. JB weld on broken brake part??? Have you lost your mind? Electrical tape???!! This kind of thinking shows up in the news or in the courtroom everyday and it ain't pretty when it does. Maybe you only tried the brakes at slow speed, try a panic stop say at 65 mph and come back and tell us how safe it is. I will call you an idiot if you do. Defective power brakes take MORE force than non power as you are having to overcome the booster spring before the master cylinder activates. There's also extra distance traveled built into the booster unit that you cannot tell because same spring tension covers it up. The owners manual will say the car will stop but it takes more than normal distance to do it. If you hit someone else then you are responsible for any injuries and property damage you do, merely posting here what you did can be used against you in a lawsuit. I assure you other people will not approve of your fix.

You are part of something bigger than yourself, fix it right if only to maybe save someone else a lot of grief. It's not even expensive to do it, only a loser would not do so.
 
i have the right part for not that much money... i wouldnt trust jb weld its good and all but you never know when it might break.. you prolly spent more on jb weld then the part costs
 
considering the immense vacuum creaetd by the intake, i bet i wouldn't even need to glue it if the vacuum was active.
that vacuum is so strong it would hold it all together. But I put JB Weld and Electric tape to make it that much stronger.

I would LOVE to run some stainless steel brake line. That would look great.
 
You seriously misconstrue the abilities of epoxy. I have used it on many things and know what it will do and not do. It will not stick for crap to electrical tape with adhesive on one side of it. The adhesive will release with heat to eventually fail the joint. Rigging a part is one thing, but on brakes it's sheer stupidity. Insisting it's safe only proves my point.

I have used electrical tape to temporarily hold a mold together while casting epoxy model parts because the tape easily came loose from the epoxy. Duh........
 
considering the immense vacuum creaetd by the intake, i bet i wouldn't even need to glue it if the vacuum was active.
that vacuum is so strong it would hold it all together. But I put JB Weld and Electric tape to make it that much stronger.

I would LOVE to run some stainless steel brake line. That would look great.


umm, no. why do you think its called a vacuum leak? it leaks when under a vacuum. also the line isn't always under a vacuum. this is only the case at idle and part throttle. go wot and there is no vacuum.

also the brake lines would be a horibly bad idea. there is no flex and they will break.

just go get the correct part and replace it. don't •••• around with your brake system.
 
You seriously misconstrue the abilities of epoxy. I have used it on many things and know what it will do and not do. It will not stick for crap to electrical tape with adhesive on one side of it. The adhesive will release with heat to eventually fail the joint. Rigging a part is one thing, but on brakes it's sheer stupidity. Insisting it's safe only proves my point.

I have used electrical tape to temporarily hold a mold together while casting epoxy model parts because the tape easily came loose from the epoxy. Duh........

you should really stop calling me stupid. It's gettign old. besides you are assuming something in your statements which makes you look stupid yourself. and to top it off I replaced it with the correct part 3 days ago I just wanted to see what else you could pull out of your ass and transfer onto a keyboard. take care.


umm, no. why do you think its called a vacuum leak? it leaks when under a vacuum. also the line isn't always under a vacuum. this is only the case at idle and part throttle. go wot and there is no vacuum.

also the brake lines would be a horibly bad idea. there is no flex and they will break.

just go get the correct part and replace it. don't •••• around with your brake system.

I don't have a vacuum leak. . ? It's not leaking it works great.
You really don't think stainless brake line would work. I would use good 1-2" couplers at each end that would give it more then enough flex for hard accels or whatever. no?
 
You really don't think stainless brake line would work. I would use good 1-2" couplers at each end that would give it more then enough flex for hard accels or whatever. no?

If you need that much flex in the line then you would need new motor mounts asap.
 
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