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BLKOUT2: Rebirth. PRT 2011 track car build thread.

Well, the time has finally come! '13 build is officially under way.

There has been a lot of time spent on the Cougar as of late and delayed me getting started but it feels good to be diving in. The shop's work space has been thoroughly revised to make working easier and to allow me to still get occasional customer work in if need be. Tonight I started dissasembly on the front end and took some time to brainstorm different ideas regarding the are's changes for next year. Because of required clearance for the SC, and the sake of a cleaner look I will be sinking the stock radiator and fans farther forward in the core support. After dissasembly I started kicking around the idea of a tubular core support, but more on that later. After tearing the front end down I got to pulling the bay harness. I've reworked this a few times over the last 2 years to clean things up, but this year the plan is to move it all inside the car, along with the battery. I will be bringing back the PS and with the addition of the SC and it's components I'm going to great lengths to keep the under-hood looking simple.

There is a long list of changes planned for this winter, more than just a new hood. I spent most of '12 showing what was basically the same car from '11 and it didn't really showcase any new talents, so the plan for this winter is to really roll out something special for '13. Just a couple pics for now. More to follow as things progress.

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how about something like what this guy did on his 3000GT.
http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/my-little-92-stealth-537298/

would go great with a tubular upper core support plus would keep the engine from absolutely not moving (I know you have poly RR already). should save some weight too, especially if you were to make a complete tubular subframe. You could also think about making up some poly or even solid motor/trans mounts as well.
 
New engine and trans mounts are already in the works. I contemplated a tubular SF for various reasons, but I've shelved the idea for the moment. Additionally I'm not 100% on bringing back the PS....we shall see.
 
aboythatskates said:
yeah, also your personal pros and cons
Click to expand...

I loved it. The car was easy to control and handle and once you got moving not hard to steer at all. The feedback into the wheel was great and the amount of clutter it took out of the bay was nice. My only real issue is that the car wants to dart. Bumps in the road etc make the wheels want to turn and if you're not paying attention and could result in a very bad time. Now if you stay aware and pay attention it should never be a real problem. Zero speed turning is tough but manageable. A firm grip and control of the wheel is necessary to handle TQ steer.

In removing the system, you've removed the fluid pressure on either side of the rack piston. That pressure use to help you keep the wheels pointed where you wanted them, without the system the full burden of that control falls on you.
 
nice! i know what my next mod is!:laugh:

i actually didnt know that it increased torque steer.



POLE120, if ud like, i have an article on how to reduce/eliminate torque steer. and its a good read. most of it deals with the knuckle itself. possibly youd like to do something about that someday
 
aboythatskates said:
i actually didnt know that it increased torque steer.
Click to expand...
It doesn't "increase" torque steer. Torque steer is a function of, well, torque, and steering and suspension kinematics. Removing the power steering just eliminates the hydraulic assist that was working to isolate it from you as a driver.
 
rollinstylee said:
It doesn't "increase" torque steer. Torque steer is a function of, well, torque, and steering and suspension kinematics. Removing the power steering just eliminates the hydraulic assist that was working to isolate it from you as a driver.
Click to expand...

/\ This.

There will not be more than their was, just far more of it felt in the wheel. Should have worded that differently.
 
While that may dampen the steering some, it will also make steering more difficult, as you have now become the pump that transfers fluid from side to side on the piston.

In other news I've decided to cut the nose off the car and tube it.
 
When a hardware store says they don't have the tool you're looking for it just means they don't have the EXACT tool you're looking for. Think outside the box kids. A year ago I bought some carbide spot weld drill bits for when I was gutting the rear doors. They are designed to go in a mandrel with a set screw. They chucked in a 3-jaw so I just went with it. On this project they kept torquing to the flat and I would have to constantly re-chuck and I got tired of it and went to buy a mandrel. The problem? They "didn't have any that would work". Well maybe not out of the packaging. Ended up buying a hole saw mandrel, cutting off the threads and drilling out the center. Done, and worked great all day.

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