behind the HU speaker wire

[SVTJON87]

ok i need to know what 2 colors on the stock speaker harness BEHINDE the HU are for the FRONT LEFT speaker. + and -. again this is NOT for an aftermarket harness. ive got the covering off the harness.

the colors i have are:
brown
green
blue/black
blue
white/red
white/orange
purple/white
yellow

 

[SVTJON87]

anyone? please. the ford cd is not helping me. the colors dont match up. and i want to get my car back together.

 

[PurpleMystique]

They should go:

Left Front (+) White/Black
Left Front (-) Brown/Yellow
Right Front (+) White/Red
Right Front (-) Brown/Yellow
Left Rear (+) White/Purple
Left Rear (-) Brown/White
Right Rear (+) White/Purple
Right Rear (-) Brown/White

But it sounds like you don't have those colors. You might have to start experimenting. It sounds like the fronts share a common ground, as do the rears. Take a source you know is good and start connecting wires until you get sound out of the front left. Then figure out which is hot and which is ground by finding what goes to the front right. One of those wires should be the same.

 

[CSVT_2004]

ok i need to know what 2 colors on the stock speaker harness BEHINDE the HU are for the FRONT LEFT speaker. + and -. again this is NOT for an aftermarket harness. ive got the covering off the harness.

the colors i have are:
brown
green
blue/black
blue
white/red
white/orange
purple/white
yellow

Make/Model/Year of car would be helpful..... Factory amp? If you do, hope you didn't hack off the din cable end.... anyways... I can get you a wiring diagram if you can get me that basic info...

 

[PurpleMystique]

I just assumed 99 csvt by the sig, but I suppose it's entirely possible to be something else.

 

[CSVT_2004]

I just assumed 99 csvt by the sig, but I suppose it's entirely possible to be something else.

Well that's why I asked, just to be sure.... I would hate to give the wrong wiring hook-ups and **** someones car up...

 

[SVTJON87]

1999 svt contour. aftermarket adapter harness plugged into the factory harness. factory amp bypassed. i need the factory harness info as the aftermarket is labeled. and you cant tell what wire goes where on the factory. and i looked at the wire diagrams on my ford CD and they didn't help. it gives me everything but what i need.

 

[CSVT_2004]

1999 svt contour. aftermarket adapter harness plugged into the factory harness. factory amp bypassed. i need the factory harness info as the aftermarket is labeled. and you cant tell what wire goes where on the factory. and i looked at the wire diagrams on my ford CD and they didn't help. it gives me everything but what i need.

I'm not by my home computer right now, (at work), remind me, and i'll try to Remote desktop tomorrow and post em for ya.

Edit:
Change of plans, i'll have it posted here in like 10 mins...

 

[CSVT_2004]

Actually, already had this pic posted somewhere else, so I just had to link it... had to double check it was for the same car though...

1 (12+) Memory
2 and/or 6 (-) Ground
3 (12+) Switched
4 Illumination
7 Power Antenna, hook your blu/wht to this, unless you want the antenna going down every time you put a cd in... which would be hooking it to the solid blue wire from the deck... Personally I hook the blue and blu/wht from the aftermarket adapter harness to the blu/wht on the deck
8 Din cable for factory amp integration, even though it says white, it's the gray din cable, the speakers are referenced below it as the 8 wires going to the amp... but they don't give colors, why people shouldn't hack that damn thing off...

If you need the speaker outputs from the factory amp I can get those as well because they're cut off on this pic... Hope it helps you,

PLEASE!!! test your wires first before you just go hooking them up, make sure they are correct.... usually you shouldn't need this pic, because all these can be determined by using multimeter.... but here ya go...

ENJOY!!

 

[SVTJON87]

sweet! now i can fix my antenna going up and down too! it gets annoying. but unfortunately i need the colors not shown. thats the same problem i have with my diagrams. I'm just going to have to take the harness apart to figure it out. THE REASON I'M DOING THIS IS BECAUSE WHEN THE STOCK AND AFTERMARKET HARNESS MEET THEY DON'T GIVE A GOOD CONNECTION. CAUSING ONE SPEAKER TO CUT IN AND OUT. I HAVE THEM ZIP TY-ED TOGETHER RIGHT NOW. THAT WAY NOTHING MOVES.

 

[mattsBLK99cSVT]

are you using an aftermarket harness that bypass's the factory amp and your splicing that one into a pioneer hu wiring harness?

 

[CSVT_2004]

sweet! now i can fix my antenna going up and down too! it gets annoying. but unfortunately i need the colors not shown. thats the same problem i have with my diagrams. I'm just going to have to take the harness apart to figure it out. THE REASON I'M DOING THIS IS BECAUSE WHEN THE STOCK AND AFTERMARKET HARNESS MEET THEY DON'T GIVE A GOOD CONNECTION. CAUSING ONE SPEAKER TO CUT IN AND OUT. I HAVE THEM ZIP TY-ED TOGETHER RIGHT NOW. THAT WAY NOTHING MOVES.

You need to take a picture of what wires your working with, because you make it sound like your tapping into the din cable for the amp..... Or did you need the speaker wires coming off the amp... I'd say come to the meet in fox lake next Saturday the 21st, but that would be a long ass drive for you... Love working on car audio, but everyone that has problems is always too far away to work on...

 

[SVTJON87]

i really appreciate all the help. ill take a pic and show you when i take it apart again. i don't have the keys for my pioneer. now I'm not the best with car audio but I'm not dumb and nothing is hacked into. so don't worry. i always test before i cut. its just hard to with this. again ill get a pic up soon. thanks a bunch! - JON
Edit: this is what im looking at. shown in red. the left front speaker. colors of + and -

 

[CSVT_2004]

Okay that end your looking at is coming from the radio going to the amp. Which you say the factory amp is bypassed, if you were using that end, you'd be integrating with the factory amp.... The areas circled in green, the audio out number 8 from the radio and audio in number 12 on the amp, are the same as the 8 NCA wires running from the radio to the amp... Just represented differently, the wires circled in blue, are the output wires from the amp, which should go straight to the speakers... Your left out put from the amp should be Wht/blk Brw/yel, not sure off the top of my head which is positive, you should "pop" the speakers to figure out the positive, but you really need to be able to see the speaker to do that, so you can see the cone moving out. I can get a harness in a couple of days an look at my factory amp wires and tell you for sure which one of those is positive... but until then I hope these are what your looking for.... otherwise get those pics posted an we'll go from there. As for keys for pulling your radio, go to like a bestbuy or circuit city, or some place with car audio, they should have extras laying around you could have or borrow if you can't find your deck keys.....

 

[SVTJON87]

ok, so my amp might not be bypassed? i did not install the HU. when i first got the car i had it installed at circuit city. since then i have learned so much about my car and feel like i can figure out anything. and have up to this point. i have infinity's all the way around with no amp (coming later). the HU is the only time a shop has touched my car. i will look and see if there is a bypass harness on my amp. the stereo sounds amazing so I'm guessing it is bypassed and using the HU amp. give me a few mins and i will get the pics. * gose and takes the bezel out*

 

[SVTJON87]

ok it looks like my amp is not bypassed. if its not how dose it sound so good?
and would it sound better if it was? and am i using the amp and my HU amp together?
this is the HU harness

EDIT: after review if i just bypass it i wont have this problem anymore. it looks pretty easy for me. but again if its not bypassed am i using the HU amp and the stock amp together? or WTF is going on here lol. why the f*** didn't i think of this before. god my mind sucks sometimes. but thats why you guys are here. to slap me back to my senses. all this work for nothing lol
but if i could get the cut off part of the diagram for the amp output that would be wonderful! cause i haven't decided if I'm going to splice in or just get the bypass harness. i can be cheap. thanks again!!

this is the adapter harness. ignore the red and white wires as those are for the dash clock.

below is the adapter harness connecting to the factory speaker wire harness that goes the amp. the connectors don't have a good connection thats why they are zip-tied together. if the zip-ties are not there the drivers speaker cut in and out. the cover is pulled back on the stock harness as you can see.

what i wanted to do was just wires across the connector just for the drivers speaker. then i wouldn't have to worry about it cutting out. it would be temporary. dose this make sense?

here are pics of my amp and as i said found out its not bypassed.

 

[CSVT_2004]

F'n Circuit City!

F'n Circuit City!

Okay... I gotta rant an rave first about circuit city.... LAZY MOTHER F'ERS, Premium sound Contours/Mystiques are the EASIEST factory amps to bypass!!! Then the explorer, which would be number 1, but the fact that you have to rip half of the rear quarter off to get the eliminator harness in makes them suck.... As you can see from your pics, Cicuit City loves to be pussy little *******s and use their adapter harness up the wazoo... They brand specific deck adapters that connect to that nice rectangular plug, then they just go choose the right car adapter and plug it in.... In your case they got lazy and just used the integrator harness which usually 1 of 2 things happens with that.... 1. the connections aren't the greatest and speakers start cutting out... or 2. the amp eventually blows out and if they were to put the factory radio back in... **** won't work.... or the odd 3rd option... **** doesn't break and it actually lasts for the time the person has the vehicle..... eventually though it's going to go out.... It's better to bypass the factory amp because all after market decks have their own amplifier.... so you'd be double amplifying the signal coming off your deck, the deck amp, then the factory amp, which usually causes the volume once it's turned up to like 10 to be overwhelmingly blarring... sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, depending on the vehicle and the amplified system... (BOSE, JBL, Ifinity, etc) Anyways though.... This example of circuit city makes me feel soooo much better about how I do my installs, and that I know more than they do because we have more installs come through then they do.... Alright, on to how to bypass though... very very simple, as long as you go buy the right harness.... Working at BestBuy I know it would cost you $19.99 if you were to get it in Madison, WI. It's a Metra harness 70-5514, Ford Elminator Harness...

So here's my reply......

In the picture Bottom Of Amp, The blue circle is the factory amp output to the speakers, the green is the Keyless module, used for lock un-lock and trunk opening on the key fob.

Picture - Front of Amp - Blue is Factory output again, Yellow is the keyless module, and green in the factory input, which is the opposite end of the plug that is zipped tied in your dash.

Picture - Dash Connection - This is the connection (circled in red) I was talking about earlier in this post about 1. having bad connections 2. the factory amp burning up... I would tape it up just to make it look clean...

Picture - Integrator Harness, the equivalent of what they used on your car...

Picture - 70-5514 - Harness they should of used...

 

[CSVT_2004]

The last picture.... How to use the eliminator harness...

Okay as you can see all you need are two plugs out of this whole setup, the crossed out in green harness is the one you won't need.... and you already have the gray power plug, so essentially all you need is one.... Now your probably wondering why there is a red line through the one harness.... well what you do is cut that harness 50/50, because you'll only need one of them, I can't remember exactly which one it is, they are basically the same plug on each end, just that one is a little bigger than the other. I think the smaller one is what you need, but I can't remember for sure, maybe i'll look here while i'm out washing my car.... but basically all you do is cut that integrator plug, so you have the speaker wire output from your deck, extend 4 pairs of speaker wire to the eliminator harness, make sure you match proper colors from the output to the eliminator end, and then just unplug the factory amp output, and plug the eliminator end in to it. Easy easy easy.... I can make a mock hookup sometime next week for you if you want to see what it should look like.... or get some pictures at least.... give me a ring and I can walk you through it... or talk to you about it....

 

[SVTJON87]

ok yes thats basicly what im going to do. i have reviewed lots of info and i am going to bypass the amp. its easy. now can i just leave the intergartion harness and splice into that? o and i pulled the tape off so you could see the wires. again you have a been a big help.

 

[SVTJON87]

ok yea i have the how-to and yes i understand everything. right now I'm going to get the bypass harness. thanks again!! i don't know why it didn't click for me on my own. the integration harness confused me at first. but now i got it all lol.

I just have 1 question will my stereo be quieter now?