Heres the read out from the front..
Left front:
camber -0.55
Toe: 0.02
Right front:
camber: 1.15
toe: 0.01
Front:
Cross Camber: 0.60
Total Toe: 0.01
First, the right front camber is probably -1.15 not 1.15. Often that isn't enough to cause the wear you are seeing, but it can, especially if the toe has drifted. High negative camber makes toe settings more critical.
Second, there should not be so much cross camber (difference from right to left. I suspect that the subframe has shifted.
Third, it would help if you had caster readings. Did the technician not bother to read caster because he knew it wasn't adjustable? He should have read it anyway to confirm that it was in spec. He needs to do a caster sweep to get the readings and that is part of an alignment.
From the way the tires are wearing, check to see if the tie rod ends have excessive play and that the A frame bushings are not worn/sagging.
Once you know that the suspension is tight, I would still recommend installing the camber kits and then aligning the car. Here are the readings I would suggest.
There are no rear adjustment caster or camber settings but they should still be checked to confirm that they are in specs and if so set the rear toe as close to zero as possible while still being slightly toed in.
Next, optimize the front camber using the camber kits. I would suggest .5 degrees negative camber. Each side should be even. Caster is set at the same time. Set it on the positive side. It will be either positive or negative when you get the camber right. It will probably end up about 2.5 to 2.8 degrees. It should also be even from side to side. If you cannot get the caster and camber even from side to side you may have a subframe that has shifted and is not quite square. It should not be hard to shift the subframe back. If you just cannot get the caster and camber even from side to side, then the caster should be up to .5 degrees more on the right side or the camber up to .2 degrees higher on the left side, but not both. Either one of these will give you a very slight tendency toward a left drift to compensate for road crown.
Then set the front toe at as close to zero as possible while still being slightly towed out (the opposite of the rear). Thrust angle is also set while adjusting front toe and it should be zero.