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Back brake DRUM removal again

L

Liquid_force

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Lawrence, KS
I've searched, and I've read, but haven't really found any answers other than bang on them and heat them.
Is that what it comes down to?

I know there is a mechanism on the back side to retract the shoes, but the drum spins as free as a bicycle wheel so I don't think the shoes are the problem.

I've soaked it with PB blaster and beat the piss out of it with a 2-1/2 lb dead blow. Not budging. On my old car with rusted on rotors I was able to get a big puller to work, but there's nothing to grab ahold of on these drums.

I guess I need to go get a torch?
 
I have scored lines in the drums with a sawzall and smashed/shattered them off with a sledge :shrug:
 
Release the brakes and use a puller

Release the brakes and use a puller

Even in the desert I had to use a puller to get the drum off. clean the rust off of the hub where the drum is. Pull off the dust cap for the hub, this will get you to the spindle to put the screw from the puller on. Get a puller large enough and there should be just enough room between the drum and the backing plate.

There is a small round rubber plug on the back of the backing plate, you can push a screwdriver in and release the automatic adjuster.

But the midwest and rust might defeat these ideas.
 
heat the center hub of the hub that the drum slides over with a torch then pour cold water over it. That will sometimes break it loose. you may still need a hammer or a puller to pull it off. The expansion and contraction from heating and cooling is sometimes all you need though. if the cold water doesnt work, try a can of compressed air, just hold it upside down while you spray the hub so it will spray the liquified air on it and get it really cold, that will almost always work.
 
I did finally get it off.
A couple days after my initial try I pulled the wheel again and it popped loose with one blow. I guess the PB finally got to it.

Anyway -- I was :shocked: to see the build up of dirt and brake fluid. It was a black greasy mess. I've only had to add brk fluid once in 25k, but it looks like there's cup worth that's leaked from the cylinder.

So for replacement cylinders --
Why should I buy the ~$50 Motorcraft option when Rockauto has a wholesaler closeout from Dorman for ~$5?
 
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