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AC problem 99 Mystique v-6

H

Hurrycane

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Messages
36
AC is blowing hot air. Compressor was replaced a little over a year ago. The belt is not slipping, but I can't hear the AC clutch kicking in. Idle does rise about 100 rpm when I turn the AC on, so maybe the clutch is kicking in and I just can't hear it. Have tried to recharge, but the gauge on the recharge kit pops into the red zone when I pull the trigger.

Any thoughts?

Craig
 
I take it you are using one of those recharge bottles with the guage from the part store?

Did the system work correctly after the compressor was replaced?

Have you visually checked to see if the compressor clutch is engaging?

My recommendation is to take it to a shop and have the system tested and repaired. My guess is the system is empty.

Otherwise purchase or rent a proper guage set and vacuum pump. Check the pressures to see what is going on. If its empty bring the system to a vacuum and see where and if it leaks.
 
BrApple said:
I take it you are using one of those recharge bottles with the guage from the part store?

Yes.

Did the system work correctly after the compressor was replaced?

Yes.

Have you visually checked to see if the compressor clutch is engaging?

I can't tell.

My recommendation is to take it to a shop and have the system tested and repaired. My guess is the system is empty.

You might be right. I am puzzled that the low side pressure nearly pegs the gauge.

Otherwise purchase or rent a proper guage set and vacuum pump. Check the pressures to see what is going on. If its empty bring the system to a vacuum and see where and if it leaks.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I really hate cars.

Craig
 
Oh no absolutely not! I watched two guys charge FOUR cans of refrigerant into a car that was not running at all. After I told them you could not do that. Then, when they finally found the huge leak underneath car they wanted all their money back! Unbelievable!!!! They both claimed in their country (we won't go into which one) they were certified mechanics.

We laughed about that one for a good month.
 
So I swapped the a/c relay or a working one, and it made no difference. Is there a separate relay for the a/c clutch? A fuse?
 
I don't understand what you are swapping relays. Have you determined what the current high and low side pressures are?
 
BrApple said:
I don't understand what you are swapping relays. Have you determined what the current high and low side pressures are?
Click to expand...

No, I haven't. I don't think the compressor is turning. There's a relay (R3) in the power distribution box that the manual identifies as "air conditioning." I just honked the horn to make sure the R6 relay was working, then popped the working relay into the AC slot to see if the compressor would kick in. Nope. Just hoping for an easy fix.

Is there another relay/switch/solenoid in the AC system?

Craig
 
OK, I follow now. Chances are the compressor isn't engaging because the low pressure switch is preventing it from turning on because the system is empty. Need to check the pressures.
 
(shaking head, so sad)

'so maybe the clutch is kicking in and I just can't hear it.'

' I don't think the compressor is turning.'

Still non-comittal

'...to see if the compressor would kick in. Nope. Just hoping for an easy fix.'

You may well be waiting for awhile.

In my view this thread shows the errors that can be easily made over the net. We have a guy that appears to not even care enough to make it 100% clear that the clutch is working by getting out and looking at it rather than 'listening for it' and utterly ridiculous to diagnose based on that alone. Clutch is either working or it's not, not rocket science but drag feet all day long there.

Similar in heavily flawed logic, the 'red zone' which can be either too high or too low pressure and once again vague enough to drive person helping out crazy.

Sgt. Friday would be so non-plussed..............'Just the FACTS Ma'am, just the FACTS.'
 
I just fixed the A/C in my '98 CSVT. It was blowing slightly cool air, so I knew I had a bit of refrigerant in it. My compressor would cycle on and off briefly, a sure indication of low refrigerant. It your compressor is empty, the compressor will not come on until you fill it. If you are listening for it to "kick in", it will not until there is gas for it. If your A/C system is just low in gas with no leaks you can fill it with a can and gauge easily for about 40 bucks. I did it this afternoon and my A/C is as cold as when new. Before I decided to do it, I watched every video I could find and read every negative review so I would know what to look out for and what not to do. In your case, I would spend the 80 to 100 dollars to have it done by a shop. Good luck.
 
Very solid advice; mirrors my experiences almost to the "T". I did end up using InterDynamics ( http://idqusa.com/) recharge kit and had 100% success. My thinking was that I had $30 approximately into the re-charge kit and if successful, then I'm good....if not then to the shop for the $80 to $100 "fix".
 
It's not THAT solid, you can get the almost dead exact lowside gauge readings from 150 psi on the highside to over 300 psi and have not a clue as to where you are at. The lowside will ALWAYS cycle between say 25 to 50 psi at virtually any highside pressure high enough to cycle the coolant. In short, you can get cold but not know how MUCH cold and the all important how long it will LAST before you have to do it again. Not knowing the highside also predisposes one to try to get 'all of the can' into the car when you may well be overcharging doing so. You have NO WAY to know that when not reading the highside.

I refer to '100% success' as nothing less than charging it and not having to do it again for a least 3 years. And cold A/C for all of that time.

Best tip I can give on like a 95-100 degree day? Charge up until the system JUST QUITS cycling the clutch on and off at warm IDLE speed, that gets you around 270 or higher highside in most cases at that day temperature. Raise the engine rpm up to say 2500 or pay close attention to clutch operating on/off at highway speeds, the clutch MUST be coming on and off at higher rpm speeds than idle.
 
amc49 said:
(shaking head, so sad)

'so maybe the clutch is kicking in and I just can't hear it.'

Not trying to be vague. Probably just over analyzing, as I usually do. I can't hear the ac clutch kicking in. I can see the belt running and the pulley turning. The shaft inside the pulley is not turning. No significant drag on the engine. So I don't think the compressor is turning.


'...to see if the compressor would kick in. Nope. Just hoping for an easy fix.'

You may well be waiting for awhile.

Just wanted to be sure there was a working relay in the ac slot (R3) in the power distribution box.

In my view this thread shows the errors that can be easily made over the net. We have a guy that appears to not even care enough to make it 100% clear that the clutch is working by getting out and looking at it rather than 'listening for it' and utterly ridiculous to diagnose based on that alone. Clutch is either working or it's not, not rocket science but drag feet all day long there.

Sorry. Nothing to do with not caring. I couldn't see it. Assume the compressor isn't turning.

Similar in heavily flawed logic, the 'red zone' which can be either too high or too low pressure and once again vague enough to drive person helping out crazy.

Red zone in this case is pressure way too hign. Probably because the system isn't drawing.

Sgt. Friday would be so non-plussed..............'Just the FACTS Ma'am, just the FACTS.'
Click to expand...

Sgt. Friday was duller than the butt end of an axe handle.

Craig
 
The only solid advice here is to take it to a shop if you don't have the tools or knowledge to repair the AC system yourself.


As noted the compressor is suppose to cycle, filling the system until it doesn't cycle is wrong. Filling the system without knowing the high side pressure is wrong. At a minimum get or rent a gage set and at least understand what is happening before doing anything.
 
Last edited:
'filling the system until it doesn't (cycle) is wrong.'

I used to think so as well but not so under certain circumstances. Note the temp range given there. ONLY at that or hotter. Normal for the system to quit cycling at that temp range and pressure and IDLE ONLY. When engine rpm is sped up then it cycles. Every car I've done like that hits correct highside numbers and why I can say it. They go on to provide LONG term cooling that damages nothing at all. Now if you charge more than that and blow up your system, you didn't get it from me. The system MUST cycle but at highway speeds and rpm is fine. I commonly run up to 310+ psi on the highside on everything I have and they cool like no tomorrow, and I never charge without reading both sides. Got the idea from projectsho89 who used to frequent here a lot. He argued then it would not hurt and now I back that up having done it to several Ford orificed cars. I cannot say on other types though. No matter since I always read highside anyway. When done like that the 'sitting at idle' a/c performance increases quite a bit.

Interdynamics, who supplies much of the aftermarket charging stuff absolutely could care less if you can charge correctly or not, they actually make more money when you can't and keep trying to buy more and more product. I watched people spend thousands of dollars doing curbside a/c charging on the front store parking lot, most of those people were totally incompetent, thinking you can charge correctly without highside readings is a part of that. Interdynamics actually does not mention nearly all the things that should be done to properly retrofit systems at all, their method is laughable. And once you see how amny people charge the systems to then come back later and demand full refund when they don't work then you realize why the stuff they sell is so grossly overpriced in todays' 'lifetime warranty' climate. Car parts stores are by far the absolute worst places to find good prices on a/c charging stuff. But then they are for normal other car parts too, I get more than my 40% off parts store discount going online even including shipping fees.
 
Well, if one does the research and uses a little common sense, the A/C system can be recharged easily. The refrigerant capacity is 24.5 to 27.5 ounces. I bought an 18 ounce can of gas. I figured I had a little bit left in the tank since it did blow some "cool" air, just not COLD air. It took all 18 ounces and could have taken more according to the gauge. It was a pretty simple procedure, but I can see how things can go bad if a mistake is made along the way. Like that old commercial goes, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later!"

I was pretty sure I did not have a significant leak, so I proceeded with that premise. If one's A/C line has a significant leak, then yes, no amount of recharging is going to fix it. If there is a way to mess things up, human beings will find it. May I suggest anyone contemplating recharging their A/C, to watch the You Tube videos, then read all the negative reviews, get familiar with how the A/C operates, then proceed with caution. Good luck.
 
Uh, you're dreaming if you think the low side gauge shows it, they only go up like 2-3 psi while the high side goes up tremendous amounts, most gauges you have to imagine that small a number since they are not calibrated gauges because they are so cheap. Also, only useable until you have a small leak down low, once you lose oil at all from that the amount of refrigerant the system takes is shot to h-ll. Putting oil in only makes it worse, now you have no idea how much coolant to put in there. At ALL. The premise that 'it took it all' could easily be an error as systems usually cool only slightly until they get about 3/4 full, so you could be WAY overcharged there and I rest my case. Reading the highside stops that mistake.

To make things clear again............on lowside you will get 25-50 sweep at highside of say 125, AND you will get SURPRISE! say 25-53 sweep again with a highside of 270, someone please tell me how you can charge like that????

YOU CAN'T..............unless you believe in the tooth fairy too. Common sense says don't do it like the parts stores tell you; why so many have major problems. If you are young buy a double gauge set up and spend five minutes learning to use it, it pays for itself the first time you use it and a cheap plastic $60 one like I have has lasted for 30 years. First thing you will find is that many systems will NOT hold the amount stated as supposed to go in them, go to proper charge numbers and the system still cools like the dickens.
 
The compressor was clogged and ripped up the clutch. No leaks. Pretty much the whole nine yards.
 
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