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ABS Delete?

13Pelle

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
111
Location
Brighton, Michigan
Where to start....this is the second time in less then a week of me owning this SVT that the ABS light has come on. I had to hit the brakes somewhat hard and the light came on and didn't go off this time. The first time it came on and went off shortly thereafter. This time it came on and hasn't gone off. The problem this time is it feels like the brakes are "stuck on". Luckly this happened about 30 seconds from the house and I am not going anywhere till Sunday morning. My questions are what the hell is going on and is it possible to do an ABS delete? Has anyone else done this on there SVTC or regular Contour? Trying to feel out my options. :shrug:
 
I'd fix the ABS instead of deleting it but yes it can be done. You might just need to swap in a new ABS controller/box/computer. Whatever it is called on this car lol. It was a "module" on other cars I've owned. It could also be as simple as one of the abs sensors. You've got one on every corner and they can do bad.

For a driver, you really do want to keep the ABS. Its saved my ass a few times on various cars I've had. Unless you are going to track the car heavily, definitely keep the ABS and fix it. Do a search on here for more info, if not, I'm sure someone who has deleted it will chime in. I haven't deleted it on the Contique platform so this is all I've got basically...
 
If the ABS light is on, the ABS is disabled. If it feels like the brakes are dragging you may have other issues going on. I would also highly recommend having it looked at.
 
I deleted it on my Ty. It was the first year GM put the ABS in and it was very problematic and not worth trying to fix due to the repeat failures. I will see if I can pull a code for whatever is kicking the ABS light on. Maybe that will help with what the specific problem is. Wasn't sure if there was something that commonly went wrong on these car or if anyone had any specifics they knew where to start with. I have a love hate with ABS and prefer not having it. I understand the concept of it and the potential benefits of the system, i just haven't had is work to save my ass as of yet. Any time ABS has kicked in it has cause me problems.
 
If the ABS light is on, the ABS is disabled. If it feels like the brakes are dragging you may have other issues going on. I would also highly recommend having it looked at.

I just seemed odd that the two issues presented themselves at the exact same time. ABS light = Disabled ABS....I'm OK with as long as it being disabled cause no other problem then not having ABS.
 
Is yours a early 98 csvt? if so it prolly has the mecatronic brake unit which is no good. The switched to the bosch unit which you have to make fit. Lot of work but it can be done. I deleted the abs for now, waiting for it to warm up before i tackle putting the newer bosch unit in...
 
Is yours a early 98 csvt? if so it prolly has the mecatronic brake unit which is no good. The switched to the bosch unit which you have to make fit. Lot of work but it can be done. I deleted the abs for now, waiting for it to warm up before i tackle putting the newer bosch unit in...

Yes, it is a early 98....I am not looking forward to working on it in the winter myself. The garage has the Ty stored for the winter. The Ty and a bunch of crap from the move. Is the Bosch unit readily available?
 
I think 1/98, 99, and 00 contour and mystique with ABS used Bosch. Here is a good thread for you.

http://www.fordcontour.org/index.php...c&fromsearch=1

Sweet...Thank You. I did a search on here before posting this thread but didn't see anything on deleting the ABS. Didn't search for too much other ABS info at that time. I went out for a few minutes last night and the car's ABS light went off on its own and there is no more feeling like the brakes are "stuck on". When I got in the car everything was fine. The car still keeps going through this on again off again deal where one day it has it full power potential and then its doesn't. Still better then when I bought it but not consistent with anything.
 
To deactivate the ABS just pull the fuse under the dash. My ABS was toasted and blowing the 60 amp fuse in the engine compartment. I got tired of changing that (it also takes out the blower for the heater) so I pulled the smaller fuse under the dash till I could get the ABS module changed.
 
I had boughten mine off ebay with the harness that you will need to splice in. I went to the junkyard to see if i could find the hardlines and what not but i couldnt find any with ABS units unfortunately...
 
you should not "delete" the abs. you need to get it properly fixed. sounds like more then one issue here. search the brake forum on a thread about abs delete and why you don't want to do it.
 
I am well aware of the ramification of deleting the ABS system . There are many reason on both sides of the issue of ABS delete. Yes, there are quite a few issues with this SVT, random brake issues being one of them. This is going to be a lengthy process trying to track down all of them let alone fixing them. I would have no problem fixing any of the many problems if I only knew what was the cause of said problems.
 
My ABS light is on, and the system isn't working. Older system like yours. When the ABS system isn't working it acts like having no ABS, this is a fail safe. Pretty much you slam on the brakes like a no ABS system it will lock up. In my case the ABS pump motor is shot. I plan on pulling a Bosch unit in from the boneyard soon, when it gets a little warmer and do the mod with the wiring.

We are just pretty much trying to tell you, if your going to go in (pulling master, brake booster, and the ABS) it would just be better to do the mod. To go the other road, I believe (could be wrong) you would need to replace the master cylinder, and then work on the lines. When really, you could just pull the bulb from the dash in call it a day and have a non ABS system.

As far as what is really wrong with yours. Have the ABS system scanned. Also pull all the wheels and check everything. Check to make sure no slide are stuck. All wheels turn freely, maybe even take apart and lube slide points. Make sure no bracket bolts are loose. Also try flushing the brake fluid, should be done anyway if it's dirty or green. The basic brake system has to function correctly for the ABS system to work correctly.
 
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My ABS light is on, and the system isn't working. Older system like yours. When the ABS system isn't working it acts like having no ABS, this is a fail safe. Pretty much you slam on the brakes like a no ABS system it will lock up. In my case the ABS pump motor is shot. I plan on pulling a Bosch unit in from the boneyard soon, when it gets a little warmer and do the mod with the wiring.

We are just pretty much trying to tell you, if your going to go in (pulling master, brake booster, and the ABS) it would just be better to do the mod. To go the other road, I believe (could be wrong) you would need to replace the master cylinder, and then work on the lines. When really, you could just pull the bulb from the dash in call it a day and have a non ABS system.

I agree. If I'm going to go in there and physically remove the ABS, it is just as much work to do the Bosch install. I now see what is involved in doing the delete. As much time would be involved its just as easy to "pull the fuse" under the dash. Same result with out the extra work. On my Ty there is very little work to remove the ABS system and it is a very problematic and $$ system to fix/replace. When the weather gets better I will be making more then one "You Pull It " run.
 
I agree. If I'm going to go in there and physically remove the ABS, it is just as much work to do the Bosch install. I now see what is involved in doing the delete. As much time would be involved its just as easy to "pull the fuse" under the dash. Same result with out the extra work. On my Ty there is very little work to remove the ABS system and it is a very problematic and $$ system to fix/replace. When the weather gets better I will be making more then one "You Pull It " run.

I would still inspect the basic brake system though. You might have a wheel locked up, from a hose or a caliper.
 
I don't want to start a new thread, so I'll just post this here, since it's related.

My ABS light and brake light are both on. The brake light isn't on when you first start the car, but after you drive it, it comes on. The ABS light is on all the time, with one acception. Occasionally during semi-hard braking, the ABS will suddenly kick and the ABS light and brake light will both go off, but will turn back on as soon as I press the brake pedal again.

My brakes have good lines and fluid, no leaks or crappy patch jobs anywhere, so I can't figure out just what this could be. We had this problem in my truck and it was a brake sensor in the rear wheels, but I don't know this time.

What do you guys think?
 
:nonono:Bottom line here. When the ABS lamp is on the ABS system will not work, pulling the fuse will disable the system from working.

However, ABS is not a piggyback system, it is an integral part of the brake system. Just because you pull the fuse or the light is on doesn't mean the brake system will work normal. Even with the system disabled brake fluid travels through the ABS valve body then to the wheels. If there is a problem with the valve body it can cause individual wheels to not brake or even keep the brakes applied.

You need to have the system checked by somebody that has the proper tools. It could be a sensor problem, a wheel bearing problem, a tire problem, etc. One of the basic things that can be done to prevent problems with the valves is flushing the brake fluid at least every 2 years, and when replacing brake pads never push the piston back into the caliper without opening the bleeder screw to let the fluid out rather than push it back into the master cylinder.
 
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