• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

A/C Recharge and What Type

2.5 Always!

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Messages
67
Hey Guy's,
I will be recharging my system in the near future, however i could not find the proper how to on how to perform the recharge. The best thing I've found was the 2.5 use's R134A... Can I have some help please for a how to? Thanks a bunch!
 
Go to the store, look at a recharge kit and then read the box. It will tell you what you need, what it contains and then inside you'll have instructions on what you're actually supposed to do and why. Is the air blowing warm now or just not as cold as you'd like?
 
Do NOT go to the store, do NOT look at, read the box, or buy a recharge kit.

DO take it to someone who knows how to diagnose and repair it properly.

If you are this level of inexperience and are this lacking in basic knowledge of the system, you need to do some serious homework/research before messing with a potentially dangerous system that is capable of injuring you.

Steve
 
Step 1. Take an A/C auto repair class.
Step 2. Purchase $2000 to $3000 in equipment to suck down, capture, and recondition any refrigerant still in the car.
Step 3. Check for leaks.
Step 4. Suck down the system to evacuate it of any refrigerant.
Step 5. Make any needed repairs.
Step 6. Evacuate again to remove all air and accompanying moisture. Hold 29" of vacuum for at least 30 minutes to fully boil off the moisture.
Step 7. Recharge using precisely measured quantity of refrigerant.
Step 8. Confirm no leaks and confirm system is working properly.

Anything less may provide less than desirable results, release refrigerant into the atmosphere (illegal), and be very dangerous.

Leave the mickey mouse shortcuts for klunkers that aren't worth the expense of repairing properly.
 
It starts out warm... on the colder side, than it gets colder as i go. when at it's coldest which isnt what it should be, i throw it on max a/c to recirculate and that usually gets it going. also i noticed, their is a weeeird click probably 4 QUICK clicks. i believe it's from the a/c clutch. i had a a/c professional just re-charge it. he does household a/c and been doing it for 15 years. except he had the proper gauges and etc... he stated that i had a little left in the line but it was not totally empty. so therefore their is a leak somewhere. i mean how else would it get low. The hoses were replaced. you can tell because it's a good year line for the high pressure line i beleive. near the battery... i don't think ford uses goodyear for their rubber/pluming etc... i am the second ownder and before i bought her she was sitting for a while. (dealer bought from auction), was carfaxed no accident indicators or anything. so maybe it just leaked out from sitting around and not getting recharged? lines went bad. i'm going to get a estimate on replacing the lines. if anyone has an idea how much it cost + labor... please share. Thanks!
 
Well there are lots of little o-ring seals that can go bad and have a small leak as well as the poor accumulator design where it can rust through and cause a leak.
 
Automotive airconditioning systems are not a sealed system in the same sense as the system in your refrigerator, for example. The very nature of the belt driven automotive AC compressor requires a shaft seal to prevent the uncontrolled loss of refrigerant where the shaft exits the compressor housing. The shaft seal does NOT totally prevent refrigerant from leaking, as some acceptable amount will leak past the shaft seal. That's one reason home AC and refrigeration systems use hermetically sealed compressors, where the motor and compressor are sealed in one housing, and there are no shaft seals required. In addition, car AC systems require rubber hoses at certain points, to allow for the movement of the engine relative to the rest of the car, and the rubber compounds will allow the very slow migration of refrigerant molecules through it over time. One reason the automakers couldn't simply switch to R-22 when R-12 became illegal to utilize was that R-22's molecular size is much smaller than R-12's and would leak unacceptably fast through the rubber refrigerant hoses. So some degree of leakage is natural with automotive AC systems, but if you have to recharge more often than every 5-10 years, then the leakage has grown to unacceptable levels. And yes, Ford seems to insist on using O-rings at its connections, which are notorious for leaking after a few years.
 
Back
Top