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99 ford contour SE v6 crank no start, new fuel pump, pump priming.

contourguy99

New CEG'er
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
16
Location
AZ
Recently replaced fuel pump and fuel filter, I hear it priming in back. Battery, fuses and relay good,
Plugs are only 6 months old.
Engine turns over fine but no ignition, strong battery.
What could this be?
 
Fuel pump was working afterwards and I hear it priming still. The path light goes red for about 3 seconds solid and then goes back to its normal status. The fuel filter is new and the spark plugs are only 6 months old.
 
...What could this be?

It could be fuel, air, or spark.

Always start by looking at everything you touched since it last ran.
Doublecheck your fuel system maintenance by checking the fuel pressure at the rail and venting it. it wouldn't be ridiculous to discover that you didn't get a connection tightened correctly and fuel isn't actually making it to the fuel rail.
Sometimes it takes longer than you expect to fill the fuel lines after they have been emptied so if you haven't cranked it several times, you might consider trying again. I assume you have a return style system which should prime pretty easily but still, if your giving up after only a couple of tries then it might be worth trying a few more times.
Once your sure you have fuel at the fuel rail, checking for spark is super easy. Get a spark detector from autozone for under ten bucks to do it safely.
If you have fuel and spark than look for vacuum leaks.

One last dummy check...don't assume the power system is good because it turns over. Sometimes the battery terminals aren't tight or the battery cables get corroded under the insulation and will pass enough current to turn over but not enough to start.
Check your terminals are tight and try using a jumper cable directly to your starter to bypass the battery cable to test it.
 
Where is the fuel pump driver module and the inertia switch on the 99 contour se? Also would the fuel pump driver module cause strange intermit start problems?
 
I had an intermittent IAC problem that had those symptoms. Did you try cranking with the throttle open? That usually worked on mine.
 
Any update on this issue? Faulty crank position sensors can also cause a crank no start issue. I went through this issue on a GM I had. I had a remote start installed and a few weeks later started having crank no start issues, but no check engine light. I thought the remote start system had something to do with it and ended up pulling the whole thing out to still have the issue. Turned out to be the crank position sensor.

However, as stated in other posts, double check your connections everywhere you touched. This is step 1, retrace your steps. Hook up an OBD reader if you have access to one. Just because it isn’t showing a check engine light doesn’t mean there isn’t a code stored in the computer, which may help give you an idea where to start looking.

Check for fuel pressure at the rail. Make sure all vacuum lines are connected. IAC should be plugged in and operating. MAF plugged in. Verify spark plugs and coil pack are are plugged in tight. Check visible grounds. Check fuel pump relay, test it or swap it with another relay to test.

Check your battery and alternator voltages. Again as mentioned, just because it can crank doesn’t mean it has the power to start. If you’re smelling fuel while trying to continually start, check your plugs again and make sure they are not fouled with excessive fuel. Too much fuel and wet plugs won’t ignite.

The most basic and embarrassing one of them all….is there fuel in it? I had a tech at work that replaced a fuel tank and pump and kept trying to start the vehicle and it wouldn’t fire. Another tech banged on the hollow tank and asked “did you put gas in it?”
 
Any update on this issue? Faulty crank position sensors can also cause a crank no start issue. I went through this issue on a GM I had. I had a remote start installed and a few weeks later started having crank no start issues, but no check engine light. I thought the remote start system had something to do with it and ended up pulling the whole thing out to still have the issue. Turned out to be the crank position sensor.

However, as stated in other posts, double check your connections everywhere you touched. This is step 1, retrace your steps. Hook up an OBD reader if you have access to one. Just because it isn’t showing a check engine light doesn’t mean there isn’t a code stored in the computer, which may help give you an idea where to start looking.

Check for fuel pressure at the rail. Make sure all vacuum lines are connected. IAC should be plugged in and operating. MAF plugged in. Verify spark plugs and coil pack are are plugged in tight. Check visible grounds. Check fuel pump relay, test it or swap it with another relay to test.

Check your battery and alternator voltages. Again as mentioned, just because it can crank doesn’t mean it has the power to start. If you’re smelling fuel while trying to continually start, check your plugs again and make sure they are not fouled with excessive fuel. Too much fuel and wet plugs won’t ignite.

The most basic and embarrassing one of them all….is there fuel in it? I had a tech at work that replaced a fuel tank and pump and kept trying to start the vehicle and it wouldn’t fire. Another tech banged on the hollow tank and asked “did you put gas in it?”
 
Hi3rd new fuel pump, new filter, and a new doorman fuel pump driver module and the car ran a fuel months and then pump stopped priming again when key on start and no fire. Im stumped why would a 99 V6 SE eat so many fuel pumps? It wasnt even low on fuel. The car is getting old but this thing is expensive to put fuel pumps on. Has anyone else had similar experience in the contour line and found a solution? No blown fuses or relays.
 
Check the Throttle position sensor, mine wouldn't start in the garage 1 day, had to have it towed.
Turned out to be the Throttle position sensor
 
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