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3L misfire...need help....

svttouruofl

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
347
Location
Southern Indiana
I know this isn't our platform but I know there are a lot of people here that know the 3L duratecs and I need help.

The motor is in our 2001 escape, 150,xxx miles in decent shape, just used a little oil through the heads. We developed a miss a while back and cannot get it worked out. It's not throwing a code. When it first happened it clogged up the front pre-cat enough that it wouldn't pull itself. We pulled and gutted all the cats so the miss wouldn't wipe them out again. The miss seems to be on the front bank of the motor. I can unplug the coil on plug 4 and 6 and the motor doesn't change how it runs. If I unplug 5 it backfires in the exhaust pretty good. Pulled the valve cover and the cams looked ok as for timing. It starts hard like the timing is out on an old carbed car. It will often want to backfire and buck when it starts. We changed out the cam and crank position sensors and nothing. Decided to pull the heads and get them worked and get all new timing components also hoping there was something wrong with the valves. After a valve job and new guides nothing was found wrong in the heads. The cylinders looked fine still showing the cross hatching also. Re-assembled it and its still doing the same thing. I've done 3 duratecs now so I know the timing chains are right. We also picked up another "good" used computer and had it flashed and nothing changed. I'm at a loss with this thing. Someone said it could be in the pvc system, knock sensor, or that the coolant temp sensor could cause it to change the timing to make it run cooler??? I'm tired of trying things and I'm out of things to diagnose. Cannot tell if its missing on the back bank because of the manifold being in the way and the rear cat was fine when we pulled it so I'm assuming its not. All help or advise is greatly appreciated.
 
If you unplug a coil the motor should run really bad. It doesn't make sense that unplugging the coils on 4 and 6 wouldn't do anything unless they were bad in the first place. I have about 300 COP in a bin. If you want to try some different ones PM me and I'll send you a set for really cheap.

You didn't say what plugs you were running. I've only had good luck with Autolite APP104's or stock Motorcraft plugs so I'd get those in there if it were me.

Chris
 
Zach and I have talked about this a couple times and, IIRC, he has already tried different coils, or at least swapped them around. never made any difference. I believe thats part of the reason they suspected the PCM.

Zach, double check the wiring for the coils. make sure they are getting power with the key on, and that the resistance to pin at the PCM is not excessively high (should be less than 1ohm). also check that there arent any shorts to power or ground in the wiring for them.
 
Zach and I have talked about this a couple times and, IIRC, he has already tried different coils, or at least swapped them around. never made any difference. I believe thats part of the reason they suspected the PCM.

Zach, double check the wiring for the coils. make sure they are getting power with the key on, and that the resistance to pin at the PCM is not excessively high (should be less than 1ohm). also check that there arent any shorts to power or ground in the wiring for them.


Sorry I forgot to say that we replaced all the COP with new ones and new plugs....not sure on the plug but we have swapped them and the injectors around since the rebuild so I know they aren't the issue.

We have voltage at the connectors. Daniel walk me through checking the resistance at the PCM and where to check for shorts a little more.
 
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