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2.0L Zetec - Interference or Non-Interference?

A

ahanix1989

New CEG'er
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
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15
Getting sick of this car. Told my manager to junk it, but of course she doesn't listen. Timing idler pulley shattered. Replaced pulley and belt. Runs like crap under 10MPH... three codes. Cylinder 4 Misfire, P1131 Lean Burn, P1381 Camshaft 1 Bank Timing Over Advanced. Cylinder 4 misfire is more than likely the horrible "stalk" type plugs they like using... doesn't want to 'snap' properly. I have no idea how the timing can be off on just one bank, since there's no 'play' in the belts between the two camshafts and no play between the exhaust and crank on the belt.

Now, somebody tell me straight, and show your work, because I cannot get one straight answer between internet and auto parts stores. 1998 Ford Contour GL. 2.0L Zetec engine. Is it interference or not? People here say No. Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, etc... all say Yes.
 
It is a non interference engine. How do I know, from Ford training when Contiques were introduced years ago and from seeing countless ones towed in with no valve or piston damage from throwing the belt.

If you don't get the two cams right, it will not run properly. There is a tool recommended to lock the cams together at the rear of the head when replacing the belt. I have done it without, but it isn't easy.

Get the timing belt installation right and go from there.
 
Just follow the ford instructions to the letter

Just follow the ford instructions to the letter

Get the cam locking bar and the crank reference pin, follow the ford instructions to the letter and it will be just fine. Setting timing AND belt tension properly are critical

I shredded a belt at 85 mph and just put on a new belt no sweat. the engine is NON INTERFERENCE, but stuff can happen. Easy enough to do a leak down to see if valves are bent.

Best of luck
 
Thank you.

Next problem: No way in hell am I paying Ford $45 for a chunk of friggen metal, so I fabricated my own using 0.25" thick steel with a bench grinder.

I was going to use the crank reference pin, but a little issue -- I couldn't find the damn spot to stick it! The Haynes manual shows a picture that gives me absolutely no reference points.

After fixing the spark wires and getting Cylinder 4 firing, it sounds pretty decent, and aside from stumbling when you first start it, it idles and revs nice. I think the only noise that's there is because the spacer for the serpentine idler pulley fell off and I didn't notice it, so the pulley itself is rubbing against the block.

Why couldn't Ford design a DECENT alignment mark for their engine? Or just make the alignment heads on the cams 0.25" so any generic Fleet Farm steel bar will work?
 
the hole for the crank pin is near the bottom of the black. fan side, near the trans, behind the CAT. its a 10mm bolt that is just threaded into the block. remove it and thread in the crank pin.
 
How easy is it to get to? And it'll thread in fully only when the crank is at true TDC?
 
its easy to get to from under the car. the bolt will thread in fully and then you rotate the engine clockwise until it rests on the pin, it will then be at TDC.
 
Sorry to double-post, doesn't seem to let me edit my other post. Could the P1131 be, since Cylinder 4 wasn't firing and I had oil going everywhere... the oxygen sensor might be covered in oil and needs a good cleaning?
 
I don't know what the actual mechanism is for the oxygen sensor code in your case. I do know that you fix what broke last then retest and see where you are. There is a good chance that there is nothing at all wrong with the oxygen sensor.
 
Ran a search on the 1131 code.

Here's what I came up with:

P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Indicates Lean.

When an HO2S sensor indicates lean at the end of a test, the system is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The code is set when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.


Electrical

· Short to VPWR or VREF in harness or HO2S
· HO2S circuit shorted to Ground
· Water in harness connector
· Open circuit
· Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
· Damaged HO2S
· Damaged PCM (other DTCs should be present)

Fuel System:
· Excessive fuel pressure (stuck fuel pressure regulator, restricted fuel return lines, etc.)
· Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulator
· Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump concern, fuel supply line restrictions, low fuel level, etc.)
· Vapor recovery system (stuck VMV, etc.)

Induction System:
· MAF contamination
· Air leaks between MAF and throttle plate
· PCV system / Other vacuum leaks
· Improperly seated engine oil dipstick

EGR System:
· Leaking gasket
· Stuck EGR valve / Leaking diaphragm or EVR

Base Engine:
· Oil overfill
· Incorrect cylinder compression
· Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S
· Secondary air stuck on

EDIT: Some of these may be worded funny or not apply as I nabbed this from a V6 thread...
 
Bah, whatever lol. Cleared out the engine codes and the light hasn't come back on, so I'm happy enough with it to send it back to her... along with the $260 invoice (timing, front brakes / rotors, towing).

Should've seen the rotors. They were practically welded to the hub -- Had to cut them with a portable bandsaw and knock them off.

My picture gallery of fixing the thing:

http://www.ahanix.org/etc/contour/
 
Oh now what the hell?

I drive it 100 miles in town, no problems. I go to start it today while on the phone with her and it dies. "Probabyl just needs to re-learn the engine. Mine does the same after the battery dies". They drive it maybe 25 miles on their way home, and the timing belt shreds.

The original belt was fine, it was a faulty pulley. I put a new pulley and new belt on, and it shreds. What did I do wrong?
 
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